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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Dometic Fridgge NOT Working

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J Money

Newport Beach

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Posted: 08/21/21 02:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hello All

In a sense of panic since we’re heading out to camp again tomorrow. I have searched the forums and web thoroughly.

I have a 2018 Winnebago 245BHS and this Dometic fridge is driving me nuts. I have searched very thoroughly on here, the web, YouTube, and everything I can think of.

The Fridge Model is DM2652.

This past week we used the trailer and I put some time into diagnosing the fridge. I have to be missing something here.

Finally I surrender…. And I’m asking for some help [emoticon]

The fridge wouldn’t switch to gas when set on “Auto” and then disconnected from Shore power. I would hear the igniter clicking but the burner wouldn’t fire.

I could always get it to work when plugged into shore power.

I figured it was the board or the igniter…. They didn’t have replacement boards in stock so grabbed a new igniter to remove that variable.

That didn’t work. Still no spark from the igniter (I took it apart and couldn’t see it spark). I disconnected each plug on the board and made sure to clean the connections and plug them back in.

Deductive logic says it would be the board now. (Now I have no idea)

I watched some videos on YouTube to troubleshoot. I used a voltmeter and I’m getting 12V to the board.

I began to think it was maybe the house batteries were old but those have been replaced now.

Over the past week camping I tapped on the flue and watched bunch of debris fall so I cleaned everything out, removed the burner, cleaned that with a brush, cleaned the burner jet etc. I couldn’t get the fridge to work off electric but after cleaning everything…. Voila I was able to light the fridge with an Aim Flame.

The fridge was running off gas no problem and the next morning the check light was back on.

What I am NOT hearing right now is a “CLICK” of the gas valve or something engaging.

I cannot hear any gas and am not sure how to check, but since I can’t ignite this thing with a lighter I think it is safe to assume the propane isn’t flowing.

At the moment I cannot get this thing to work on Propane or Shore Power.

Potential Issues:

The thermofuse isn’t “tight” against the flu baffle but it doesn’t seem to have been an issue in the past. I have also made sure that the reset button on the thermofuse has been pressed down…. I have not seen that been tripped yet.

The solenoid on the gas valve does seem to have some play. Is that supposed to be tight or is that possibly causing a leak?

Thank you all in advance for your help!

J Money

Newport Beach

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Posted: 08/21/21 02:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here’s an update…. I just reset the power again… and gas starts to flow and I was able to light it.

I said noway let’s do that again. It lit a 2nd time with the lighter.

3rd try…. I cannot hear gas flowing and no more fridge AGAIN.

jdc1

Rescue, Ca

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Posted: 08/21/21 03:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What does your battery read? You have to have power to the board. Make sure the propane valve is fully open too.

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 08/21/21 03:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If the refer switches from auto to LP, first though is no 120 volt AC power to unit. Check outlet with known good three wire device. Outlet is in exterior access.
Check 120 volt fuse on circuit board.
Circuit board failure can cause oher problems like in your case failure to work on LP.
You could remove circuit board and inspect the backside for burnt area.


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MitchF150

Puyallup, WA

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Posted: 08/21/21 07:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have the same fridge in my 2019 Rockwood. Right out of the gate, the fridge worked fine. But when it was plugged into shore power, it would only run for a single cycle and then not continue. This was on either gas or auto while plugged in.

If it was unplugged, it would work fine on gas and cycle normally..

Well, that was not going to work, as I am pretty much always hooked to shore power at the minimum where I go camping..

I called the dealer I got it from. They wanted me to bring the rig back to them and would 'diagnose' it.. I said I already did that and it needs a new board. Dealer: We have to diagnose first to claim it on warranty..

I asked how long that would take. It'll take a week to diagnose and then if it is the board, it'll take another week to get it and then a couple of days to install it..

I said thank you, but I can get the board in 2 days from Amazon and install it in about an hour myself..

Which is exactly what I did and it cost around $110 if I recall... Big deal. I was not going to let them have my trailer for 3 weeks for a $100 part I can install myself!

I known right now, the part is probably not available like it was for me pre covid...

but, that's that fixed it for me.

Good luck! Mitch
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2013 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab Max Tow Egoboost 3.73 gears #7700 GVWR #1920 payload. 2019 Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S.

J Money

Newport Beach

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Posted: 08/21/21 07:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you for the replies, sincerely appreciated!

I’ve replicated some “results” a few times now, I’ll share that below.

Jdc1- The propane valve is wide open and I did make sure to bleed the lines at the interior stove and the outdoor kitchen (further back). The batteries are fully charged reading 12.68 volts.

Enblethen- I followed your recommendation and also plugged 3 prong cord into the 120 volt AC outlet next to the fridge (inside of the same access panel). The outlet in there is good, I checked it a few times.

I also checked the fuses and breakers…. all of the fuses are good. I pulled a fuse out and it actually flashes a red LED so that very convenient.

Here is what has me stumped…

I’ve hooked the entire trailer on shorepower. I have the fridge set on “Auto” and press ON, the “Check” light comes on within 10 seconds.

I’ve also connected the fridge directly to an extension cord. Exact same results.

I remember tinkering with this the other night and noticing the thermofuse is a little loose. I rotated it 90 degrees today and restarted the power to the fridge. “CLICK” and the gas is running. It will not fire on the igniter but I can start the fridge using LP gas with a lighter.

I rotated the thermofuse back 90 degrees and the gas wouldn’t flow. Not sure if it’s grounding out on something?

I just tested this again as I type and at least it fires up manually. I was debating on whether or not to throw some solder on there to keep it stationary where I noticed it’s working. However this may also be a horrible idea?

-I will pull the circuit board now and see what the back looks like or if there is any noticeable damage.

J Money

Newport Beach

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Posted: 08/21/21 07:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks Mitch. Yep… to your point I couldn’t get a board last year which is why I just tried a new igniter. I will totally own the fact that I should have ordered a board months ago…. And installed myself. Heck I’ve already taken this bad boy apart a handful of times now and leaving it at the dealer wasn’t really an option. Unfortunately I seem to be having the same symptoms now…. No fridge on shorepower but works on gas.

The thermofuse thing I am experiencing is very odd though. 2 bad components?

If so… that would at least explain why I can’t figure this out.

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 08/21/21 07:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Get model number of circuit board and order a Dinosaur electronics board from Amazon.

J Money

Newport Beach

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Posted: 08/21/21 07:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just pulled the board to check the back side. Fortunately/Unfortunately there’s no visible damage and all soldered components still look good.

Not sure where to check a 120v fuse on the board? There is a 5 amp fuse that still looks good though.

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 08/21/21 08:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Pull fuse and Check fuse for continuity.

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