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 > Alternators - what are your thoughts?

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Matt_Colie

Southeast Michigan

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Posted: 08/26/21 05:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well Cptn,

It sounds like you have a TV/TT setup. That be the case, you are basically screwed as far as changing the house bank in the TT from the TV unless you are planning more than 10 road hours per day. The only way you could do better would be to have 2xO welding cable (two runs, positive and negative) back to the house bank.

The problem is that the 12V world exists over a very small range of actual voltage, and any line loss between the source and the load will end up being too much.

Stick with the generator plan and do as much with the 120VAC line as you can.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.


cptqueeg

Idaho

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Posted: 08/26/21 05:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Planning a TC build so really not a long wire run. I would have thought that one could at least run the fridge (pre-cooled and loaded w cool and frozen food) while towing w/out decreasing the SOC in the house batts.

ajriding

st clair

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Posted: 08/26/21 06:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OP, yea, you are way off.
Let's just start over.

You really don't need to pre-anything anything. There is no alternator that will run an AC unit, and fewer AC units that run off of DC anyway, and a worse idea is to use an inverter to "fix" this...
AC will cool the camper down quick enough, or just crank up that generator at the second to last stop and pre-cool with ordinary means.

Unless you drive all day you can even just turn the fridge off for the drive. OR the camper battery will run the AC element on the fridge a few hours, though not ideal, and the vehicle will supplement this.

Many just use propane while driving for the fridge. My propane never gets turned off on trips, drive or parked, unless I am changing tanks on a single.
Others will wet their pants at the mere mention of doing this.

130 amps is, or used to be, called an ambulance alternator, and provides plenty of power for all their lights and medical equipment just fine, even before LED lighting. You have between 90 to 130 amp alternator already. Your real issue/problem is the tiny little wires going to your trailer feeding it 12 volts. Fix this and many issues are solved. Do a Forum Search for how to on this topic.

Don't pre heat or pre cool. Just suck it up.

NRALIFR

Truck Camping Out West

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Posted: 08/26/21 08:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cptqueeg you might be interested in this old topic of mine that I started in 2018 when I installed a Redarc 25 amp DC-DC charger in my TC, then updated in 2021 when I upgraded it to a 40 amp.

I’ve always had problems running the fridge in this TC on LP while driving at highway speeds. The flame kept getting blown out, and after trying all the fixes and modifications, I gave up and started running it in AC mode from an inverter. The 25 amp I first installed was just barely enough amps as long as I didn’t set the fridge thermostat too cold.

I eventually decided I wanted a bigger model Redarc as there were some other power needs besides just the fridge, so I installed the 40 amp. 40 amps is enough that I can set the thermostat on its lowest setting, and still have some charging capacity left over to keep the camper battery fully charged.

Redarc DC-DC Charger Install

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cptqueeg

Idaho

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Posted: 08/26/21 08:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ajriding wrote:

OP, yea, you are way off.
Let's just start over.

You really don't need to pre-anything anything. There is no alternator that will run an AC unit, and fewer AC units that run off of DC anyway, and a worse idea is to use an inverter to "fix" this...
AC will cool the camper down quick enough, or just crank up that generator at the second to last stop and pre-cool with ordinary means.

Unless you drive all day you can even just turn the fridge off for the drive. OR the camper battery will run the AC element on the fridge a few hours, though not ideal, and the vehicle will supplement this.

Many just use propane while driving for the fridge. My propane never gets turned off on trips, drive or parked, unless I am changing tanks on a single.
Others will wet their pants at the mere mention of doing this.

130 amps is, or used to be, called an ambulance alternator, and provides plenty of power for all their lights and medical equipment just fine, even before LED lighting. You have between 90 to 130 amp alternator already. Your real issue/problem is the tiny little wires going to your trailer feeding it 12 volts. Fix this and many issues are solved. Do a Forum Search for how to on this topic.

Don't pre heat or pre cool. Just suck it up.



Got it, thanks.

cptqueeg

Idaho

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Posted: 08/26/21 08:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

NRALIFR wrote:

Cptqueeg you might be interested in this old topic of mine that I started in 2018 when I installed a Redarc 25 amp DC-DC charger in my TC, then updated in 2021 when I upgraded it to a 40 amp.

I’ve always had problems running the fridge in this TC on LP while driving at highway speeds. The flame kept getting blown out, and after trying all the fixes and modifications, I gave up and started running it in AC mode from an inverter. The 25 amp I first installed was just barely enough amps as long as I didn’t set the fridge thermostat too cold.

I eventually decided I wanted a bigger model Redarc as there were some other power needs besides just the fridge, so I installed the 40 amp. 40 amps is enough that I can set the thermostat on its lowest setting, and still have some charging capacity left over to keep the camper battery fully charged.

Redarc DC-DC Charger Install

[emoticon][emoticon]


Looked at the old thread briefly and I will look it over thoroughly. Thanks for posting the link.

JRscooby

Indepmo

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Posted: 08/27/21 04:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just trumping out here. If everything can be run on 12V except the Air Conditioning, most say you got to run a generator to have AC. How does that work; Engine spins a generator which makes electricity used to power a motor which spins a compressor. Have I got that right? I read somewhere, (think it was in some kind of science book, so may not be generally accepted nowadays, but lets assume it's true) that every time energy is forced to change forms some is lost.
Why not Engine spins a compressor. Maybe add a alternator driven by that little engine.

Tvov

CT

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Posted: 08/27/21 05:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:

Just trumping out here. If everything can be run on 12V except the Air Conditioning, most say you got to run a generator to have AC. How does that work; Engine spins a generator which makes electricity used to power a motor which spins a compressor. Have I got that right? I read somewhere, (think it was in some kind of science book, so may not be generally accepted nowadays, but lets assume it's true) that every time energy is forced to change forms some is lost.
Why not Engine spins a compressor. Maybe add a alternator driven by that little engine.


So you are talking about a gasoline powered air conditioner?


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JRscooby

Indepmo

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Posted: 08/27/21 06:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tvov wrote:



So you are talking about a gasoline powered air conditioner?


Or propane. As a matter of fact, diesel powered have been on the market for a couple of decades.

S Davis

Western WA

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Posted: 08/27/21 09:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

https://imgur.com/gallery/EoSXEF7

I have a system with 50amp Redarc and four Trojan T-105s, I run a portable compressor fridge and battery charging for work tools. The Redarc is my only charge source at this point. This is installed on my truck not camper.

I ran 1/0 DLO cable for the charging circuit, I am in the process of upgrading it to run a Outback 2800 inverter with six Lifeline GPL-30HTs. This will give me two 450ah battery banks. I plan on using it to power the a/c when needed.

* This post was edited 08/27/21 10:59am by S Davis *

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