RV.Net Open Roads Forum: fridge problem on gas / potential battery issue?

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > fridge problem on gas / potential battery issue?

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Sponsored By:
mewanderinghome

Tucson

New Member

Joined: 09/03/2021

View Profile



Posted: 09/03/21 12:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi all first post:
2006 Forest River Wildwood 23FBL travel trailer. Dometic refrigerator runs fine on electric (gas generator- no electric on site), unreliably on propane (sometimes works, sometimes not). I was thinking it might be that the two 12v deep-cycle batteries are starting to go, and that the spark igniter at the gas burner may not always have enough juice to generate spark. So Q#1:

1) Does anyone know what voltage the igniter needs to have to work?

It could also be a bad ground or bad igniter, but a new symptom seems to support the idea of batteries not providing enough juice: the batteries are quickly dying when I turn the generator off, even when it has run for several hours...and despite the fact that I have a 100watt solar panel in the system to keep the batteries topped off between generator runs. So next question seems to be what might be causing the batteries to discharge/fail. Perhaps they're just old (I bought this RV used one year ago & don't know when they were last replaced). But I also started thinking about parasitic drains, bc of course I don't want to put new batteries in and have them fail in a couple months. I would think it would have to be a pretty bad one for the 100w solar panel to not compensate for the drain. Then I realized something that might be a parasitic problem: I've installed a galvanized wire fence around the the camper, which does make contact with the ground and the frame (but only at the hitch, it's in contact with the body of the TT in other areas, and forms a little yard). So Q#2-4:

2) What's the easiest way to test if a parasitic drain is occurring?

3) Will that test work with the existing batteries if they're weak, or will I need to invest in good batteries first?

4) Could grounding the frame (to actual ground) through a wire fence cause substantial parasitic drain, eventually causing the batteries to not hold a charge?

Gary45

Oshawa, Ontario, Canada

New Member

Joined: 08/14/2020

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/03/21 01:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Your trailer must have a connection directly to ground through stabilizing Jack's regardless of fence, a direct connection to ground is not going to cause a problem with the batteries. If the batteries are old and not holding a charge it would be best to change them. You need a voltmeter to check amp draw on the batteries.

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 01/05/2005

View Profile






Posted: 09/03/21 01:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Somewhere around 11.5 for good ignition.
Check the igntitor to insure it is about 1/8 inch from ground.
Earth ground is not necessarey for the 12 volt DC system. Good connection between the battery negative and the rig's frame is necessary.
Disconnect the battery, use Ohmmeter between the disconnected wire and the battery terminal. With everything shut off there should be no reading, as in zero ohms.
How does the refer work when connected to shore power or genset? If works OK, then batteries! Refer should be manual set to propane for this test and not auto!


Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow

2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker


wa8yxm

Davison Michigan (East of Flint)

Senior Member

Joined: 07/04/2006

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/03/21 04:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I second the need of a volt meter

one thing you can do that's a "Cheap test" is lock the fridge on gas and fire up the genny. if it now lights and holds good chance it's a voltage issue.

BUT

The spark gap should be set for about 1/4" as I recall (PLEASE DO NOT TAKE MY WORD FOR THAT) is about 800 volts AC if the chart I googled up is to be believed. now I'd want about 1,000 volts AC to insure a good spark. if the battery voltage is too low ***OR*** the gap is two wide.. not happening.

I've not seen that on RV Fridges or water heaters.
I have seen it on two furnaces. My RV and my parent's Oil fired house.

Out of 2 I've worked on.


Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times


Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > fridge problem on gas / potential battery issue?
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2022 CWI, Inc. © 2022 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.