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Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  Class C

 > Batteries won't hold charge - need help

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Matt_Colie

Southeast Michigan

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Posted: 09/06/21 03:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SGordon,

Until you get it sorted out, get in the habit of pulling the negative cable of both the chassis and house batteries when you shut down. It will be a pain I know, but it is easier that dealing with dead batteries all the time.

Now, as soon as you can, get wire, two alligator clips and a small 12V bulb. Solder the wires on the bulb and the clips as well. Then put it between the disconnected battery cable and the battery. If/when it lights, you have a problem (I think you know that), so, keep pulling fused and disconnecting things until the light goes out.

You bought this coach used. There is a real good chance that someone that doesn't know better hooked things directly to the one or the other of the batteries. This happens all the time.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.


sgordon_lazydaze

Santa Monica

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Posted: 09/06/21 03:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Copy that- thanks so much for the tip.

I've purchased the terminal disconnect switches and will replace car battery in the mean time.

Love this community!

capacitor

California

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Posted: 09/06/21 03:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The isolator may be bad allowing the coach bat to drain the chassis bat but this doesn’t explain where the drain is. Remove wires from the isolator and charge coach bat. Once completed check voltage and check again in a few hours. You need to find where the drain is, coach or chassis.

Gary45

Oshawa, Ontario, Canada

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Posted: 09/06/21 03:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The isolator is the only place where the house battery is connected to the vehicle battery, should be 3 wires/connections, disconnect the wire from the house battery. There will be a wire from the alternator, center connection on mine and a wire going directly to vehicle battery. If you disconnect house connection at least both batteries will not drain.
Do you have a battery charger or jumper cables, odds are the problem is on the house side.

sgordon_lazydaze

Santa Monica

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Posted: 09/06/21 03:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Capacitor,

This may be a stupid question but if I remove all the wires from the isolator, can the alternator still communicate with the car battery to charge it or is it wired alternator>isolator>battery(s) ?

Gary,

This is the charger I have- I've only used it on my house battery but can try with the car battery.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0797KK3N2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Still a bit confused on how to check where the source of drain is coming from as this is all new to me but will study over everyones notes and try and locate the power drain.

Gary45

Oshawa, Ontario, Canada

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Posted: 09/06/21 05:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just remove the (charging) wire from the house battery, you should be able to charge the vehicle battery and start it. You can hook your charger up to vehicle ground and the disconnected house battery charging wire to charge house battery. Then one of the batteries will discharge quickly pointing you to the problem.

bgum

South Louisiana

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Posted: 09/06/21 05:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You installed an inverter is that when your problems started?

bobndot

USA

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Posted: 09/06/21 05:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

Still a bit confused on how to check where the source of drain is coming from as this is all new to me but will study over everyones notes and try and locate the power drain.


You can use an inexpensive multi-meter . Hook up meter using the amp setting. Disconnect the negative cable off battery of choice to test things on the coach or chassis side.
Hope this vid helps and explains the ‘how to use’ a mm to test.

https://youtu.be/KF1gijj03_0

2 many 2

USA

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Posted: 09/06/21 06:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Some older RV refrigerators have this:
"The climate control switch (sometimes called a humidity switch).is used to control frost that may collect during very high humidity situations. The RV refrigerator climate control Switch controls a 12-volt heat tape behind the metal frame around the refrigerator and freezer doors."

This switch is often a small toggle switch semi hidden on the frame of the door on the fridge. Even when the fridge is off, if this switch is left in the "On" position, it continues to draw power.

This was a common problem when the switch was overlooked causing dead batteries for seemingly no reason.

* This post was edited 09/07/21 10:52am by 2 many 2 *

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 09/06/21 07:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Test the isolation device before replacing it.

I prefer a solenoid for disconnecting house from starter.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, soon to have SiO2 batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

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