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Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > ProPride and lifted 3500

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ApexAZ

Gilbert, AZ

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Posted: 10/27/21 01:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BenK wrote:


Since lifted and higher CG, hope your track was also increased significantly with aftermarket wheel offset. That lessens the tip over point or angle. Hope your lift system has double shocks and increased torsional rate anti-lean bars. Higher durometer anti-lean bars as noted by BackOfThePack is also a good idea if you haven't already (Delrin would be my choice and suggest staying away from nylon types).

Some lift kits has blocks that are angled to point the diff U-Joint upwards. Bad and will wear out that U-Joint quickly. Both output shaft and diff pinion shaft center lines MUST be parallel no matter what changes to the Z height the lift introduces. Stick with square blocks.

Fun stuff and enjoy your setup !


Don't think the lift came with anti-sway bars; at least I think that's what you mean. It's a suspension sub frame lift with torsion bar adjustment and square blocks in the back (not angled). The wheels do widen the stance by about 2" on each side. Going the speed limit, and even under during 75 mph limit stretches, I haven't felt like the truck is leaning too much around corners. I also reduce speed down to caution sign recommendations.

It's a 4" lift going from 33's to 35's. It's not extreme. But I also acknowledge it still raises the center of gravity and I just need to go a bit slower than I would otherwise.

I once towed a popup camper with a Tacoma without WD and THAT was sketchy. With my current truck, I don't feel any slop or drift in the steering. It feels fairly well planted.

Anyway, it's the truck I have and it's the truck I'll have to tow with.

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 10/27/21 03:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Apex,
Trust your gut here and don't let the others over-complicate this for you. You pulled it, it handles good, end of story. Next step is tow it somewhere to enjoy some time with ZERO worry about your truck doing the job very well!

* This post was edited 10/28/21 08:08am by an administrator/moderator *


2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29

ApexAZ

Gilbert, AZ

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Posted: 10/27/21 03:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Grit dog wrote:

Apex,
Trust your gut here and don't let the others over-complicate this for you. You pulled it, it handles good, end of story. Next step is tow it somewhere to enjoy some time with ZERO worry about your truck doing the job very well!


Agree. Initially I was pretty nervous about it, but I got the WD set up and the truck seems to have no problem pulling it. I've been up and down from Phoenix to Payson and it performed great!

My only worry right now is backing the thing up and getting it through the 10' gate where we are storing it lol. But practice makes perfect. We have a trip to a KOA RV resort in Tucson planned in December and we're excited for that!

I also have a minor leak at the toilet and a weird furnace fan noise that I'm bringing it in for in a few weeks.

By the way, I'll need to air up the tires. I have a DeWalt pancake compressor that can fill up to 80 psi (barely), but are there smaller portable compressors that can do this? I don't necessarily want to carry a heavy compressor around. What do people do to fill their tires?

EDIT: Attached a pic of the truck (with kiddie tires) and trailer. I'll get one of both in a week or so.

[image]

[image]

* This post was last edited 10/28/21 08:08am by an administrator/moderator *   View edit history

blt2ski

Kirkland, Wa

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Posted: 10/27/21 06:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

For filling tires, I've personally found it has more to do with tank size, assuming equal max pressure available from compressor. At some point in time small tank, compressor can't keep up.

Pancake tanks are great for nail guns etc. BUT if running a say a ratchet wrench, filling tires. Not as doable.

Marty


92 Navistar dump truck, 7.3L 7 sp, 4.33 gears with a Detroit no spin
2014 Chevy 1500 Dual cab 4x4
92 Red-e-haul 12K equipment trailer

IdaD

Idaho

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Posted: 10/28/21 07:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think it's worth keeping a 20-30 gallon compressor in the garage with a long hose that can stretch out. They do a lot better going up to higher pressures and I don't personally like running my rear tires at 80 unless I'm towing so it's convenient to be able to air up for a trip and then drop it back down when I get back. Plus the trailer tires need to be topped off semi-regularly.

Nice setup. I haven't read through all of this thread but I think you are way below the point of stressing the truck at all even with the lift as long as your tires and wheels are up to it which I imagine is no issue.


2015 Cummins Ram 4wd CC/SB


MFL

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Posted: 10/28/21 10:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OP...not sure which Dewalt pancake you have, but mine will get to 165 psi fairly quick, and capable of filling your tires easily. It is also lt wt, about 35 lbs.

[image]





ApexAZ

Gilbert, AZ

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Posted: 10/28/21 10:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MFL wrote:

OP...not sure which Dewalt pancake you have, but mine will get to 165 psi fairly quick, and capable of filling your tires easily. It is also lt wt, about 35 lbs.


Mine is very similar and it will do 80 psi tires if I let it run between tires. It's just kinda bulky and don't necessarily want to haul it around. I can certainly fill my tires at home, but not sure when on the road. I found a product called Viair that are fairly compact that can do it, but they are like $300.

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 10/28/21 11:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Nice setup!!
Regarding maneuvering that big ole trailer in tight quarters, watch your tail swing and especially that ladder that sticks out on the other side.
I been pulling about anything that will hitch to a pickup truck since about 1988 and I managed to smear the ladder against a bollard at a gas station 3rd time out! Original owner who used it once in 4 years also hit the ladder. It was tweaked when I bought it.
Fortunately I was able to hammer the brackets and ladder back in shape and repair the ladder and trailer and reinstall. The one place I found a new ladder after searching, was about 5x as expensive as standard RV ladders.

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 10/28/21 11:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Regarding air, if you’re just filling tires, your pancake will do the job as you’ve found.
Note what pressure you need in the rear tires. It’s not 80psi or likely even close to it.
My 37s only need about 45psi with the camper and the fronts don’t change.
I bought a little Viair for filling my airbags as our 2016 doesn’t have onboard air like I had rigged off the exh brake on the old truck. It’s a small one and would get me out of the woods with a tire but not ideal, even the larger ones, for regular duty.
Honestly, just go get a good size air compressor for the shop. Once you have one you’ll realize how handy it is!

BenK

SF BayArea

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Posted: 10/28/21 12:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well..kinda sorta have 1 ton truck experience...and add just for poops and giggles...have designed industrial disc brakes & wind generator disc brakes up to 48" in dia...among many other things...


Did the work myself, installing a Dana 60 front and GM 14 bolt rear axles on my K5 Blazer, which are 1 ton axles. And the attendant stuff that goes with all of that upgrade. Like a 2" lift kit and sandbar cage. Also changed out the 22 gallon main tank with an aftermarket 50 gallon main tank.

Didn't tow much with the K5 as knew short wheel based 4x4's & trucks didn't handle the trailer well in adverse condition as tried to tow with my 1970 FJ40. The pic was before deciding to tow with and added a receiver.

Picture is from a trip to Boise, Idaho before making those changes.
[image]
[image]Click For Full-Size Image.


My current 1996 K3500 Suburban was ordered with the F60 option (snow plow prep), which is the 1 ton front torsion bars and the 14 bolt rear is the same as the dually's of that same year. Only difference is the leaf spring pack and brake cylinder & MC, which has been changed to that.
[image]
[image]Click For Full-Size Image.


As for tire pump (12VDC, 150PSI), have this in the Suburban's tool box. Modified by changing out the power cord to 12Ga x about 20' Vulkin insulation...left over from work for a nuclear bridge crane for TVA

[image]
[image]Click For Full-Size Image.


Have a 5HP, 2 stage, 40 gallon stationary compressor in the garage and this is my 5HP portable (wheelbarrow) air compressor for remodeling properties
[image]
[image]Click For Full-Size Image.


Add that have towed too often a 14,000 lb trailer behind my old 1980 C10 Silverado Big Ten (the unicorn HD half ton of that era). Not just freeway, but out on the wind farms of Tehachapi & Altamont Pass with that setup.

Done with this thread...


-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

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