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Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > Broke my hitch pin today

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BenK

SF BayArea

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Posted: 09/12/21 04:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A traditionally designed receiver has much going on that many welders do not understand.

The cross tube (square or round) is a torque tube that twists from the WD Bar/Trunnion WD hitch bar lever arm (moment).

That twisting is transferred to the side brackets that are bolted (some are welded to the frame rails, like the 4Runner etc.) That then lifts the TV’s rear axle and transfers that to the TV’s front axle

That cross tube is also twisted to a higher rate, unloaded and twisted the other way while driving (dynamic & cycling loading)

The why it is NOT recommended to drill/weld/etc on the cross tube. That creates stress raisers that WILL form micro cracks to propagate into cracking clean through the tube wall. Have also thought that some receivers might have the cross tube of higher grade metallurgy & possibly hardened

Hogging out the receiver pin box hole and shank hole has consequences too. Like reducing the cross section of the shank. Add that this OP’s setup is a 3” receiver box and a 2.5” reducer inside that receiver box…which am assuming allowing movement during the drive. THAT will create higher loads on the receiver pin box & shank.

Admit to having welded and/or drilled on the receiver end brackets, but after serious noodling of how the moments present themselves to that area. Tens of thousands of miles and no problems (don’t we all say that?)…

If me, I’d get a 3” shank. Or the OP can change out the 3” receiver to a 2.5” receiver. Either way he is in about the same money.

Have zero experience with 3” receivers/shanks and ask if the WD Hitch head the OP has now will fit either 2.5” or 3” shank ? Assuming it would, but not sure…


-Ben Picture of my rig
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Posted: 09/12/21 04:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"The problem is that there may not be any 3" shanks that work with weight distribution made. If a source is found, please post it."

This is what I found, Equalizer did not make a 3" with enough drop for my set-up.

BenK

SF BayArea

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Posted: 09/12/21 04:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This one that time2roll posted is a 6” raise/drop

This one has a 14” raise or drop and should or hope to be enough drop/raise for the OP..but it is $509 bucks https://www.bulletproofhitches.com/prod........TSnz42-Jjmj-t3i8TY8h0oUREvRoC1VgQAvD_BwE

time2roll wrote:

https://www.bulletproofhitches.com/colle........ches/products/3-0-heavy-duty-6-drop-rise

Just a random search. Not exactly common or low cost.



[image]

time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 09/12/21 04:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BenK wrote:

If me, I’d get a 3” shank. Or the OP can change out the 3” receiver to a 2.5” receiver. Either way he is in about the same money.…
May as well look at a 2" receiver to match the existing equipment.


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Grit dog

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Posted: 09/13/21 12:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tom/Barb wrote:

This is why I reamed to the next larger hole and use a grade 8 bolt and self locking nut..


Because the holes wallowed out from using an adapter sleeve?


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Grit dog

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Posted: 09/13/21 12:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Has anyone else picked up on the fact that the OP most likely doesn’t have a 3” hitch?

Nor has he been back to add to the discussion.

JRscooby

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Posted: 09/13/21 04:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Putting a 2.5 inch in a 3 inch hole? I can see where a sleeve would add extra play. And that play is like a hammer on the pin. (Short stroke, but it is a big hammer)
If it was mine I would cut some 1/4 inch mild steel to match the size of the 4 sides. Drill a couple holes in a pair of them, where I'm sure the pin hole will not be. Line 1 up, and tack thru the holes. Then I would use the 2 holes, to drill thru that plate. Repeat for other side. Tack top and bottom on, check for fit. Then using short welds, to keep from heating it to much. Grind a little taper on sides and bottom just to make it easier to start in.
Now I have faith my welds will not break, or cause the stinger to bend/break. But unless enough breaks for the top/bottom pieces fall out, you are no worse than now.

noteven

Turtle Island

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Posted: 09/13/21 09:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I has another question for the OP - why is there a "3 inch" receiver on a pickup truck?

Or does it have 3x3x .250 tubing reciever which = 2-1/2" inside which would be the 2-1/2" receiver hitch like my Ford F350?

noteven

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Posted: 09/13/21 09:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BenK wrote:

This one that time2roll posted is a 6” raise/drop

This one has a 14” raise or drop and should or hope to be enough drop/raise for the OP..but it is $509 bucks https://www.bulletproofhitches.com/prod........TSnz42-Jjmj-t3i8TY8h0oUREvRoC1VgQAvD_BwE

time2roll wrote:

https://www.bulletproofhitches.com/colle........ches/products/3-0-heavy-duty-6-drop-rise

Just a random search. Not exactly common or low cost.



[image]


But BenK - this hitch ^ is welded.... [emoticon]

Lynnmor

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Posted: 09/13/21 10:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

noteven wrote:

BenK wrote:

This one that time2roll posted is a 6” raise/drop

This one has a 14” raise or drop and should or hope to be enough drop/raise for the OP..but it is $509 bucks https://www.bulletproofhitches.com/prod........TSnz42-Jjmj-t3i8TY8h0oUREvRoC1VgQAvD_BwE

time2roll wrote:

https://www.bulletproofhitches.com/colle........ches/products/3-0-heavy-duty-6-drop-rise

Just a random search. Not exactly common or low cost.



[image]


But BenK - this hitch ^ is welded.... [emoticon]


Lets see that shank with a weight distribution head on it.





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