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wnjj
Cornelius, Oregon
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When you jumped to the Y terminal, was the thermostat still connected to Y? If so it may have been pulling that down too much. While you are jumpered, trying checking the voltage on the Y terminal at the compressor.
The opposite could also be true. Perhaps the relay coil at the compressor is shorted and pulls any source down. Try measuring the Y output from the thermostat with nothing connected to it.
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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Ron Nielson wrote:Ranger
That's exactly what I did. Jumped 12V from GH (and GL separately) to the Y terminal and there was no response.
I have the situation where one test would indicate that the board has failed (the above test) and another test would indicate that the thermostat has failed (only .8V on the Y term supplied by the thermostat). Seems like an impossible situation unless both the board and the thermostat are defective.
I have ordered a thermostat to see if that fixes the problem. Like I previously said, they're only $20 or so and I need to get this thing fixed. If it turns out that that a new thermostat produces the correct result, I'm done, otherwise, I'll see if I can find a new board. They're pretty scarce right now.
Regardless of the tstat, IF YOU HAVE 12 VOLTS AT THE UPPER CONTROL BOARD ON "Y", THE COMPRESSOR SHOULD COME ON. If NOT, your control board or the Capacitors are defective, NOT YOUR Tstat. BUT if you do NOT have 12 volts from the tstat on "Y", then find where the open is. Do you have 12 volts at the tstat on the wire for "Y"? If NOT then odds are your tstat is bad also. Doug
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30sweeds
Iowa
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To add to what Doug said,if the compressor relay is bad,replace board.right?You probably know that the boards aren't that cheap. I had multiple relay failures(freeze sensor was bad and cycled the compressor every few seconds). and got tired of buying boards.So...if you have soldering ability,you can get the exact same relay on eBay or other places for a couple bucks and fix your board.Desolder,solder...really easy.
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Ron Nielson
Berryton, KS
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dougrainer wrote:
Regardless of the tstat, IF YOU HAVE 12 VOLTS AT THE UPPER CONTROL BOARD ON "Y", THE COMPRESSOR SHOULD COME ON. If NOT, your control board or the Capacitors are defective, NOT YOUR Tstat. BUT if you do NOT have 12 volts from the tstat on "Y", then find where the open is. Do you have 12 volts at the tstat on the wire for "Y"? If NOT then odds are your tstat is bad also. Doug
I would like to temporarily wire around the relay long enough to verify that the compressor will physically run. I think I just need to add a short connecting wire between the 110V input and the relay output circuit. Don't know what I might be doing to the balance of the board, if anything, just don't want sparks and fire. OK to do that?
Yes, I will test the actual output of the thermostat by disconnecting that wire from the board.
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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Ron Nielson wrote:dougrainer wrote:
Regardless of the tstat, IF YOU HAVE 12 VOLTS AT THE UPPER CONTROL BOARD ON "Y", THE COMPRESSOR SHOULD COME ON. If NOT, your control board or the Capacitors are defective, NOT YOUR Tstat. BUT if you do NOT have 12 volts from the tstat on "Y", then find where the open is. Do you have 12 volts at the tstat on the wire for "Y"? If NOT then odds are your tstat is bad also. Doug
I would like to temporarily wire around the relay long enough to verify that the compressor will physically run. I think I just need to add a short connecting wire between the 110V input and the relay output circuit. Don't know what I might be doing to the balance of the board, if anything, just don't want sparks and fire. OK to do that?
Yes, I will test the actual output of the thermostat by disconnecting that wire from the board.
There are 2 heavy duty large wire gauge wires with Spade terminals on the relay. You can just pull them off the relay and interconnect them. Then apply 120 power to the RV. The compressor should start and run. Make sure you have NO 120 to the RV when doing this. Only connect 120 after you have jumped the 2 wires. Doug
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Ron Nielson
Berryton, KS
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wnjj wrote:When you jumped to the Y terminal, was the thermostat still connected to Y? If so it may have been pulling that down too much. While you are jumpered, trying checking the voltage on the Y terminal at the compressor.
The opposite could also be true. Perhaps the relay coil at the compressor is shorted and pulls any source down. Try measuring the Y output from the thermostat with nothing connected to it.
Thanks for that idea. I have checked and there is no voltage (well, .05V this morning) when the line from the thermostat is disconnected from the board terminal. And I know that if I wire around the relay, the compressor runs.
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Ron Nielson
Berryton, KS
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Ron Nielson wrote:dougrainer wrote:
Regardless of the tstat, IF YOU HAVE 12 VOLTS AT THE UPPER CONTROL BOARD ON "Y", THE COMPRESSOR SHOULD COME ON. If NOT, your control board or the Capacitors are defective, NOT YOUR Tstat. BUT if you do NOT have 12 volts from the tstat on "Y", then find where the open is. Do you have 12 volts at the tstat on the wire for "Y"? If NOT then odds are your tstat is bad also. Doug
I would like to temporarily wire around the relay long enough to verify that the compressor will physically run. I think I just need to add a short connecting wire between the 110V input and the relay output circuit. Don't know what I might be doing to the balance of the board, if anything, just don't want sparks and fire. OK to do that?
Yes, I will test the actual output of the thermostat by disconnecting that wire from the board.
The compressor runs fine. Nice to see that I don't have to buy a new HVAC system, although I would prefer to have a 15K instead of the current 13.5K.
I'm now thinking that both the thermostat and the board (maybe just the relay?) are bad. The new thermostat should arrive in a couple of days.
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wnjj
Cornelius, Oregon
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Ron Nielson wrote:wnjj wrote:When you jumped to the Y terminal, was the thermostat still connected to Y? If so it may have been pulling that down too much. While you are jumpered, trying checking the voltage on the Y terminal at the compressor.
The opposite could also be true. Perhaps the relay coil at the compressor is shorted and pulls any source down. Try measuring the Y output from the thermostat with nothing connected to it.
Thanks for that idea. I have checked and there is no voltage (well, .05V this morning) when the line from the thermostat is disconnected from the board terminal. And I know that if I wire around the relay, the compressor runs.
It’s possible a shorted relay took out the thermostat.
Just to be clear, you tried a jumper on the relay coil (Y terminal) with the thermostat out of the circuit? You should see voltage on the source you jumped from (fan) before you connect the jumper. Then if you still see voltage when you connect it to the Y pin, it means the relay coil is open. If the voltage drops to near 0, the coil is shorted and pulling even the fan signal down.
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Ron Nielson
Berryton, KS
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wnjj
Again, thanks for the info.
Would you happen to know the part number for the relay? (jt box 8330-385) I have never soldered on a circuit board but I have a brother-in-law who builds electrical devices. His job is to repair stun guns and police body cameras so he is well prepared for the task.
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wnjj
Cornelius, Oregon
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Ron Nielson wrote:wnjj
Again, thanks for the info.
Would you happen to know the part number for the relay? (jt box 8330-385) I have never soldered on a circuit board but I have a brother-in-law who builds electrical devices. His job is to repair stun guns and police body cameras so he is well prepared for the task.
Sorry I don’t but if you post a picture of the relay I could check out the specs on it. You need only match the footprint, coil voltage and amp contact rating. Relays are usually fairly universally and easy to swap. I did one on the control board of our Norcold fridge a few years ago.
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