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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > 8531 /Burner Issue UPDATE--Photos ( Fixed!)

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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 10/18/21 04:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks all, for the great help!

What is the "snap switch"? I might have a spare I can swap in.


1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
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2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
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enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 10/18/21 04:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Look at the circuit board for your water heater, Many are the same as furnace. If they are swap them out to see if problem changes.


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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 10/18/21 06:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Did the clean ups, bent the three prongs down a bit, got it all back together, and now all I get is the fan and some clicks, smell gas, no flame.

Pulled it out with no gas line, all wires connected and turned on Tstat, still runs with fan and then clicks, but no spark seen on the sparker ends.

Tried my other boards I thought were not working right before and same thing. The board that was working till today (except for the cutting in and out business) was at least getting the burner to light after the click. Not now.

That "rusty" plate the prongs are on is actually copper that shines up so it is not as bad as it looks in the photo.

No idea what to try next!

Maybe I should get that three-prong part from Amazon since it is not costly. I could get a new board but I am not convinced that is the problem yet.

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 10/18/21 06:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Did you find where you were loosing the nearly half of volt in the 12 volt portion?

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 10/18/21 06:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

enblethen wrote:

Did you find where you were loosing the nearly half of volt in the 12 volt portion?


No. Do you mean between the 10A ? fuse?/CB on the left and the timer on the right?

EDIT--this guy says if you smell gas and hear a click the problem is on the burner side. I will get a new three-prong thing and try that. I must have done something today to make it worse than it was so now it doesn't work at all!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AB69oqtSiwc

* This post was edited 10/18/21 07:31pm by BFL13 *

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 10/18/21 07:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

From earlier post:
Battery voltage start- 12.59
Battery voltage furnace running- 12.50
Voltage at furnace CB- 11.34
Voltage at thing to the right-10.93

I would try to find from the Circuit breaker 11.34 to the Time delay relay 10.93 voltage drop.

MT BOB

Montana

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Posted: 10/18/21 08:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you hear the click,that is the spark going somewhere. Possibly damaged the big wire, or cracked the porcelain. When you pull it out to test it, the burner housing must be touching another metal part of the furnace,or a jumper wire used, to have a ground.If mot, the spark can jump down at the control board.
The snap switch is the high limit safety switch, they are model different.

PS The guy in the video is wrong(rare for him,he is good), it is not 12 volts on the big wire, it is several thousand. The igniter system is basically a coil and spark plug.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 10/18/21 08:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have another relay I can try that was on the 111 or 11, not sure now which is on the one in use. I see how that goes looking at this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QxDOw4LAWyo

I can check voltages again after swapping relays. The "CB" has a white thing on the end that says 10A and seems to screw in so it looks like it is a fuse, don't know. I have a spare one of those too.

Meanwhile I ordered the three-prong part on spec, should have it in a week or two.

I'll fiddle with it all some more tomorrow and report back [emoticon]

I checked out the limit switch last time and it was not that. I have the right size limit switch in there, as they have two with different limits.

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 10/18/21 09:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The white thing is the reset button. Yes, it is a ten amp.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 10/18/21 09:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

">][image]

This the before photo of the red wire going on its sparker thing via a spade terminal on the end. At some point today that broke off so there was no place to slide on the wire terminal for it.

I widened the wire terminal so it would wrap around the end of the probe end and squeezed it on tight.

If that didn't work that might be why there is a click but no spark down at the sparker end above the screen? Thinking of MT BOB's idea there.

That spade that broke off was like it had been bent back and forth too many times and I bent it one too many times. If it has been sort of just hanging there since who knows when (years?) perhaps that would explain some of this?

OTOH, once it sparks and it fires the gas, does it ever spark again until the next cycle? I was having the burner cut out and then spark re-light several times during a cycle until the last one that got the Tstat to shut it off. After the RV cooled down, it would start again by Tstat and same story on and off till the RV got back to Tstat shut off.

My new three prong part should take care of that red wire connection if that is now too bad to work right, but that leaves maybe a ground issue or any of those other things on the list it might be.

I could try to solder that on where it is squeezed on, but not sure it would "take" or just be a cold solder with that metal.

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