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fourthclassC
MA
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Joined: 06/09/2005
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All good recommendations and discussion above. Just wanted to add, while not likely to be the specific situation here, the battery isolation solenoid can click but still not do it's job disconnecting/connecting. The magnet and plunger actuate but the contacts are worn and not working. Need to check this with a multimeter and 12vdc supply to actuate the solenoid.
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juano
San Diego
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Joined: 09/09/2021
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enblethen wrote:What is the exact model number of the converter? is it a 9100 or 9200?
Does it supply power when connected to shore power?
I've the 9000.
Yesterday I followed the troubleshooting guide and I got every reading well like 120v input, 13.7v output, no blown fuses and the two 30amp breakers at the BCC reset but coach batteries still not charging and converter fan not starting.
Does I have a failed converter?
![[image]](https://i.ibb.co/WVRNbPP/IMG-1427-2.jpg)
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obiwancanoli
Napa
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Joined: 02/13/2018
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MT BOB wrote:Generally most coaches will not use chassis battery, but gets power from chassis when vehicle is running.
Just because a relay clicks does not mean it is good, the internals could be poor/bad.
Here is a basic 3 relay system,the "isolation" relay would be your emergency start relay.
I suspect a bad house battery relay,or it is not being turned on, or a bad positive connection somewhere from the house battery(s) to the relay.
![[image]](https://www.irv2.com/attachments/photobucket/img_1009238_0_5ca4812947722f1d3c2c3cef1251dfeb.jpg)
I recently had a problem with my solar, and on-board generator not recharging house batteries. Used an external generator to recharge back to 100%, but it pretty much destroyed generator's ability to work after that, as it revved up a lot, in spurts, while recharging over a period of about 5 hours.
Had a mobile tech come out, and he completed thorough diagnostics, during which he found two items of concern... first, there's an on/off switch at the top of the on-board generator that was in the off position, although it charged batteries for 3 weeks prior with no issues. No idea how it was flipped to "off", but flipped back on, and then generator charged batteries.
Second issue was that solar was not recharging house batteries, and diagnostics showed the "battery disconnect" module (housed in the electrical cord bay) showed 1V difference between chassis side (14.2V) and coach side (13.1V), and this, he said, was the problem, as they should both be reading same voltage.
So, am about to have this module replaced, and hope this resolves the charging dilemma...
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BFL13
Victoria, BC
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Joined: 02/15/2006
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You know the battery fuse is ok because the battery powers the 12v things. so the open is not that. You want to know if the converter 13.7v is reaching the DC fuse panel so it can run the 12v stuff. Should see 13.7 at the individual fuses at the panel.
If only 12.x (battery voltage) at the panel, then the open is in the converter to DC panel which is also where the converter to battery goes.
The battery lugs and the converter connections to the DC meet there. You could have the battery wires on their lugs but one of the converter wires not in its lug.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
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2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.
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