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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > More fun with Renogy MPPT and LFP

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Almot

out there

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Posted: 10/29/21 03:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

The load terminals on my Blue Sky are used as a "sun sensor" switch. Perhaps yours are too?

Load terminals are in "Manual" mode, switched On and Off manually. It was On. Other modes are Automatic aka sun sensor - switching On when sun comes up, and Automatic+Timer.

Load terminals didn't disconnect, fridge was cycling until the battery dropped to 11V - it was supposed to do LVD 12.6V AND give low-voltage warning at 12.7V. The app says "Alarm", the manual - "Warning", so could've been just a blinking light, no alarm. Lost in translation from Mandarin.

I think the fridge disconnected at 11V, not the Load terminals. Other users complained that this fridge does LVD at 11 no matter whether you set it to 9 or 12.

Battery BMS has 10V LVD, so it didn't come to this.

StirCrazy - yes, I got the Bluetooth dongle and app. Paid CAD 20 or so on Aliexpress, Renogy wanted CAD 49. Without dongle you can only switch between pre-program settings for AGM, FLA, Li and User-defined. All modes have Discharge Limit 10.6V and LVD 11V. Maybe somebody could explain what Discharge Limit is and how it can discharge to 10.6 after Load was disconnected at 11.

In User mode you can change these values. In the app there is no LVD (!) but there is Discharge Limit and Over Discharge - the latter must be LVD. It is possible that I set LVD below 12 - called misleadingly "Over Discharge" in the app, and what happened to mysterious Discharge Limit set to 12.6 I don't know, since LVD aka Over Discharge had kicked in at 11. They could've used same terminology in the Manual and the app. After I'm done with the fridge, I'll experiment more with Discharge Limit and Over Discharge.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 10/29/21 05:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

3 tons,

I'm not worried about meter drift. I'm interested in maximum number of cycles.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, soon to have SiO2 batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

3 tons

NV.

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Posted: 10/29/21 08:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

3 tons,

I'm not worried about meter drift. I'm interested in maximum number of cycles.


Either way, not much of a concern for me-septuagenarian, as the amount of LFP charge cycles will most likely far exceed the amount of sand remaining in my hour glass [emoticon] !!

3 tons

time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 10/29/21 09:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you are running into low voltage issues.... need more battery.


2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up

Almot

out there

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Posted: 10/30/21 01:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll wrote:

If you are running into low voltage issues.... need more battery.

I wasn't interested to see how long the battery would last. It was testing of the load itself, the fridge. Battery wasn't half-full and there was no charging at any time.

What pissed me off was that Renogy allowed $600 battery to drop as low as 11V, rather than disconnecting the load at 12.6V as per Renogy settings.

Possible reason: confusing Chinglish of the app with no LVD but with "Discharge Limit" and "Over Discharge" instead, the former being a mystery and the latter (probably) an inept name for LVD. I thought that LVD was a "Discharge Limit" and set it at 12.6, but the LVD apparently was an "Over Discharge" (set below 12, don't remember now).

Also, settings in User-defined mode would revert back to defaults if I dial in a different battery type, ex. Gel or Flooded and then return it back to User-defined mode. If you do this, all User settings are lost - LVD would change to 11V, Boost time to 120 minutes and Temp Comp to 3C. Very dangerous. But, hey - who would ever change their battery, right?

JimK-NY

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Posted: 10/30/21 08:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There seems to be a lot of confusion here.

First start with the Reflectix. What do you really expect this to do? The insulation value is very minimal. You will likely need an inch or two of good quality insulation foamboard to see any effect.

Next I am totally confused on the complaint. If the output of the panels drops below 12.6, I can understand the solar charger shutting down. I have never seen a controller which actually shut down the draw on the batteries and certainly doing so at 12.6 would make absolutely no sense. Even fully charged batteries could easily drop down to that level with just a compressor fridge and another load such as a furnace blower.

Instead it is highly likely that the compressor refrigerator/freezer has a shut down when voltage drops to somewhere around 11.0 - 11.5 volts. If that happened right away then your initial battery charge was low and/or the wiring to the refrigerator was insufficient.

StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

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Posted: 10/30/21 10:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

The load terminals on my Blue Sky are used as a "sun sensor" switch. Perhaps yours are too?


they can be set by time. so you can set it to be active all the time, or spicific hours on the renogy. I played with mine for my porch light fron say 9pm to 11pm for a bit, now I dont use it at all. would rather my fridge stay on propane anyways, as the load current is subtracted from the available charing curent.

Steve


2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK

StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

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Posted: 10/30/21 10:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Almot wrote:



Possible reason: confusing Chinglish of the app with no LVD but with "Discharge Limit" and "Over Discharge" instead, the former being a mystery and the latter (probably) an inept name for LVD. I thought that LVD was a "Discharge Limit" and set it at 12.6, but the LVD apparently was an "Over Discharge" (set below 12, don't remember now).

Also, settings in User-defined mode would revert back to defaults if I dial in a different battery type, ex. Gel or Flooded and then return it back to User-defined mode. If you do this, all User settings are lost - LVD would change to 11V, Boost time to 120 minutes and Temp Comp to 3C. Very dangerous. But, hey - who would ever change their battery, right?


so did you change battery types and go back and not realize that things had reverted? all the numbers you gave above looks like this happened. I wonder if it resets when you take the power off also? Ill have to play with mine and see.

Steve

Almot

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Posted: 10/30/21 12:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

StirCrazy wrote:


so did you change battery types and go back and not realize that things had reverted? all the numbers you gave above looks like this happened. I wonder if it resets when you take the power off also? Ill have to play with mine and see.

Steve

Settings change only in User battery type. In Flooded, Sealed etc they are fixed, you can't change those. I didn't change battery type during the initial test.

Regardless, the app is confusing and has glitches. What you enter in the app, isn't always what is set on the controller. You can change settings directly on the controller by holding the right arrow until it starts blinking. Then you scroll through the screens by pressing the same right arrow once, and change the values by pressing the Up or Down arrow. It doesn't show all the settings - the app has more - and some values that you see on the controller can only be changed in 0.2V increments, not 0.1, and some are unnamed - say, it shows 12.0 and 12.6 (obviously some low-voltage point) but it doesn't tell whether this is LVD or what. App requires manually "finding" the correct Bluetooth every time you turn the phone On, and entering password every time you want to change settings. Same password for all the thousands of users.

It's easy to incidentally change the battery type while doing programming - but this wasn't the case with my 11 V puzzle. Most likely it was a confusion btw the (not clearly named) LVD in the app and the other "Discharge Limit", and also the fridge cutting off way lower than it was supposed to. After you've done and saved the settings by holding the right arrow, they are stable.

Almot

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Posted: 10/30/21 12:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JimK-NY wrote:

I have never seen a controller which actually shut down the draw on the batteries and certainly doing so at 12.6 would make absolutely no sense. Even fully charged batteries could easily drop down to that level with just a compressor fridge and another load such as a furnace blower.

Instead it is highly likely that the compressor refrigerator/freezer has a shut down when voltage drops to somewhere around 11.0 - 11.5 volts. If that happened right away then your initial battery charge was low and/or the wiring to the refrigerator was insufficient.

The load was connected to Load terminals. This is what they do, disconnect (or not) load from the controller.

The battery is LFP, it has 20% SOC at 12.5V. I set LVD slightly higher to 12.6 - or I thought that I did, see the explanations about the app, LVD and Discharge Limit.

Thin wire to the fridge and controller cutting off at 11V means that the fridge was at 10.5V at that moment. Should've cut off at 12V measured at the fridge - which would've been ~12.5 measured at the controller.

There was supposed to be 2 levels of protection - fridge and Load terminals, but none worked. Actually, 3 levels if you count the "low voltage alarm" that apparently is not an alarm but a "warning" in the way of a blinking LED.

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