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 > 2003 Workhorse W22 running horrible

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Heathrm

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Posted: 11/05/21 04:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am trying to fix my father's Winnebago 35U, based on a W22 chassis with the 8.1 Chevy motor. When he purchased it used it ran great. It sat for a year and has now developed a very rough idle, to a point where you have to stay on the gas to keep it running. I had a mechanic look at it and it had codes for P0107, P0120, P0220, P1516, and P2135. We have replaced the TAC, the pedal assembly (with the correct p/n from Ultra RV), the MAF sensor, MAP sensor, plugs and wires. I have also cleaned the throttle body.

If it sits for a day or longer, it will start and run reasonably smooth, but blows a lot of smoke out the driver side exhaust. It had recently started leaking fuel that slowly dripped on the ground directly under the oil filter. When I started it today it was almost a steady flow of fuel leaking in the same spot. I shut it down to get a better look, but could not identify where the leak originated from. After scratching my head for an hour, I fired it back up (she didn't want to start) and the fuel leak had almost disappeared. I could see a small amount of fuel pooling up on the drivers side exhaust manifold bolts. I pulled the first plug on the drivers bank, from the inside looking forward, and it was soaked in fuel.

After a little research I found that some people were experiencing the same problems due to a problem with the fuel dampener failing. Has anyone else experienced these same problems, or can point me in a better direction. I appreciate any help!


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MountainAir05

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Posted: 11/05/21 06:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Looking at those code, I get that you have a electrical issue along with fuel system. Most of those codes are generic so not the issue. You did not state on the battery charge as in full 12.8 volts. Did you recalibrate the new pedal assembly. A lot of thing go South when something set sometimes.

First you need to check fuel, air and spark. Throwing parts at generic codes will cost you a lot of time and money. The smoke is either water or oil which could be several thing. Too much fuel can cause a lot of smoke issues.

* This post was edited 11/06/21 02:56pm by MountainAir05 *

Fulltimers

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Posted: 11/05/21 08:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Pull your dip stick and smell the oil. If it smells like gas you are running rich. That could probably be the fuel pressure regulator (the fuel damper you mentioned). It is an easy fix.


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wa8yxm

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Posted: 11/06/21 04:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Leaking fuel...... IS a SERIOUS issue get it fixed

I do not know about your rig but back on 2005/6/7 there was a recall that had to do with the fuel lines a little 25 cent clip made of the wrong metal.

Blowing smoke, black smoke suggest either a bad innector or oil rings or other "Internal" issue. it is also serious.


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rgatijnet1

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Posted: 11/06/21 07:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you check the dip stick and it smells like gasoline, drain the oil and change it before any damage is done. Gasoline not only does not lubricate but it washers the oil from the bearings and can cause catastrophic damage.
Find your fuel leak first. None of the things mentioned, like fuel regulator, MAF, etc WILL cause fuel to leak on to the ground. Those items will affect the fuel ratio to the cylinders but not cause a leak to the ground. I suspect that you have an EXTERNAL leak in one of the fuel lines that is causing fuel to leak. This leak may also be causing air to enter the system and affect your air/fuel ratio. If you find and fix the external fuel leak, your other symptoms may disappear.
DO NOT over think all of the codes showing up. I suspect the external fuel leak is the main cause of your problems.

* This post was edited 11/06/21 08:12am by rgatijnet1 *

ArchHoagland

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Posted: 11/06/21 02:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I believe there was a recall of sorts on a leaking fuel rail. I know mine had been done already when I bought it new in 2004.

Check to see if all your recalls have been done.

Until you find the source of the leak I suggest not starting it.

Over 50% of RV fires are caused by fuel and transmission fluid leaks.


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rgatijnet1

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Posted: 11/06/21 03:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The recall for the fuel rail leak is supposedly for only 2004-2006 8.1L engines but here it is. Perhaps your 2003 was a late model year production. Fuel rail clip

* This post was edited 11/06/21 04:41pm by rgatijnet1 *

Heathrm

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Posted: 11/09/21 02:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sorry I didn't get back to you all sooner. I appreciate all the input I can get. I can't get to work on the rig until this coming weekends. I will check all the areas you suggested and let everyone know. I followed the fuel lines all the way to the fuel rail and couldn't find any leak for the life of me. I got to a point where it had to be coming from inside the manifold. I hope I am wrong and your advice points me to the real culprit.

What was odd was that on the first start it was almost a steady steam of fuel, it was leaking so fast. When I started it the second time, after about 30 minute wait, it almost didn't leak at all. Well, it was just not coming out the exhaust flange, I didn't check the exhaust connections any further back.

Heathrm

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Posted: 11/09/21 02:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MountainAir05 wrote:

Looking at those code, I get that you have a electrical issue along with fuel system. Most of those codes are generic so not the issue. You did not state on the battery charge as in full 12.8 volts. Did you recalibrate the new pedal assembly. A lot of thing go South when something set sometimes.

First you need to check fuel, air and spark. Throwing parts at generic codes will cost you a lot of time and money. The smoke is either water or oil which could be several thing. Too much fuel can cause a lot of smoke issues.


The battery was charged prior to any attempt to start. Also, I didn't know you had to calibrate a hew pedal assembly. I will look into the process. thank you.

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