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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > 5500 Onan starts then dies, help please

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Skibane

San Antonio, TX

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Posted: 11/24/21 11:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It really sounds like you were on the right track with cleaning the carb, but didn't go far enough.

Did you thoroughly clean the small passages? Typically, it takes a piece of small-diameter wire to rod them out.

Also, Sea Foam is not a particularly good substitute for carb cleaner.

2112

Texas

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Posted: 11/24/21 12:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Did you replace the fuel filter?


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Dusty R

Charlotte Michigan 48813

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Posted: 11/24/21 04:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just a thought.
Maybe the electric fuel pump stops when the generator starts.

RV-1/2n-FUN

FL.

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Posted: 11/25/21 05:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Following a Long PRIMING today I pushed *start* and it fired right up. A couple of little hick-ups and I chose to hold the butterfly 1/4 open for an extended time, as in 5+ minutes as it continued to run fairly smoothly. Took CARB CLEANER and sprayed it in until almost dying, stopped and let it get back to idle. A few more sprayings and let it run until nice a warm then flipped the 2 breakers and 50AMP SERVICE resulted. Another 10 minute idle then both roof air conditioners PLUS water heater PLUS fridge with 30amps showing and RUN IT DID!!!

THANKS AGAIN and another check-out tomorrow hopefully will turn out OK.

* This post was edited 11/25/21 09:40pm by RV-1/2n-FUN *

TomD62

Texas

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Posted: 11/29/21 08:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sounds like it's not getting enough fuel.
Check the filter at the carb, is it clogged?
Also run it and then let it quit, then take off the bowl on the bottom of the carb, it it empty or full of gas, should be full.
IIRC, there may be a solenoid on the bottom of the bowl to let gas into the main jet, that's electrically actuated. You may use a trouble-light to check it.
Check to see you fuel pump is working, remove the fuel line from the filter at the carb and put a bit of hose on it to let it drain into a can or something (instead of spraying gas all over) and try to start it, do you get a good flow of gas ?
BTW , Seafoam won't clean anything, it's more of a lubricant. Use Berryman's B12, that will dissolve varnish, pull the air filter and spray some into every tiny hole you can see in the intake. Best to remove that carb and take it apart and spray out all the passages, but that's only after all else fails. Wear gloves and glasses, B12 is nasty stuff on skin and eyes.

Dirtclods

Newport Beach

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Posted: 11/30/21 07:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Fisherman wrote:

Octane has absolutely no effect on the amount of crud building up in a fuel system.


Lower grad fuels have more c r a p the build in the carbs. That will clog the main jet.

TomD62

Texas

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Posted: 12/04/21 11:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What really gums up and corrodes the internals of carburetors is the Ethanol in most 'gas' . Ethanol attracts water from the humidity in the air and it turns the gas and other additives into a corrosive stew. It's not as bad in fuel injection systems because they are sealed, but carburetors are open to outside air.
At the end of your travel season, run down to the bottom of the tank, then add fuel stabilizer and 100% gas that some stations sell, run the generator for a little bit to pull that into the lines. When you shut it down, try to drain the carburetor bowl and incoming fuel line if you not going to be able to run it every 30days.

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 12/04/21 11:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you can stick with non Ethanol Gas there is no reason to add anything. I run whatever is cheapest during the summer in my boat. When it gets time to store for the winter I run each tank dry and refill with non Ethanol. I let it set for the winter without running carb dry and come Spring it fires right up and runs great with 6 month old fuel.


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