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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  Maintenance Issues & Tips

 > Chassis battery charging when parked

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beaubeau

USA

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Posted: 11/15/21 08:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This is all good stuff! Thank you! I've got the chassis batteries a'chargin' right now. Once they are full, I'm going to disconnect them and see how long the charge holds. And now that the Trip-L has been mentioned -- I had that an my old Bounder, and I think that sounds like a good upgrade for this RV.

Thanks for all the help.

P.S. I'm going to be posting a few photos of some electrical stuff that I don't know what is....


Chip & Nancy (and our 3 Shelties and 3 Cavaliers). 2008 Allegro Open Road Freightliner.

Ray,IN

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Posted: 11/18/21 08:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Try something free first. Remove the neg. battery cable from the charged chassis battery, then touch it to the neg. post. If you see a spark you have amperage flowing, which means a drain somewhere.
No spark, time for a load test and a specific gravity test of each cell.


And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you — ask what you can do for your country.John F. Kennedy 20Jan1961

JaxDad

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Posted: 11/19/21 06:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A great diagnostic trick is to remove the negative terminal from the battery then put an incandescent light bulb like an 1156 on jumper cables in between the negative battery post and negative cable.

If there is a load, path to positive, the bulb will begin to glow.

Then opening connections one by one will show you the culprit when the light goes out.

beaubeau

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Posted: 11/19/21 06:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I like both of these ideas! Thank y'all a lot.

CA Traveler

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Posted: 11/19/21 08:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you don't have any better option both of these ideas might help but both have issues.

A spark doesn't necessarily mean there is a issue. There can be capacitance that initially draws power then doesn't. Plus disconnecting a circuit can cause a reset condition when reconnected. The sparky test can be misleading as to any potential issue. MAYBE helpful.

A glowing bulb also doesn't mean there is a problem, as it's a low amp device in series and has significant voltage drop and can (and likely does) change how devices on the circuit work if they work at all relative to trying to resolve some issue.

An ammeter is the best solution of course. A clamp on ammeter is the easiest to use and doesn't change the circuit at all. See if you can borrow one, but both are very useful devices to have for cars and RVs.


2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
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Bob


beaubeau

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Posted: 11/19/21 08:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Oh I do have a clamp on ammeter, and never even thought to use it to check for a draw!

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