valhalla360
No paticular place.
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Skibane wrote:valhalla360 wrote:Plus without a platoon of healthy strong 18yr olds to do the digging, that's a lot of work.
In soft soil, it's 20 minutes for a tractor with a backhoe.
In rocky soil, add another couple hours.
Same difference...most RV'ers I know don't have a backhoe as part of their rig and you didn't address flooding in the pit.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
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LouLawrence
Traveling the US!
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Joined: 03/16/2021
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Flooding is not an issue, you just continue a channel through your neighbors site and let the water drain out over there! ![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/doh.gif "doh")
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Dave H M
IL
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I think we are getting the cart before the horse here.
If and after you find a property, then look at having an electrical drop put in by the local power company.
Then go from there.
The possibly exist thth you can just drive in and flip a switch.
Is what I did for my sticks and bricks home and pole barn. ![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
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valhalla360
No paticular place.
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Dave H M wrote:I think we are getting the cart before the horse here.
If and after you find a property, then look at having an electrical drop put in by the local power company.
Then go from there.
The possibly exist thth you can just drive in and flip a switch.
Is what I did for my sticks and bricks home and pole barn.
Yes, a grid connection would be far more convenient and likely cheaper but...
In a lot of areas, they won't provide a power drop unless you are actively pursuing the building of a house or business.
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Dave H M
IL
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val, ![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/scratchead.gif "scratchead")
Note my first two sentences. Ya never know until the company is contacted.
Around here, a local drop can be put in and then there is a minimum fee per month just to keep power to the drop. As far as the cost for a drop it varies as to the distance from the main line. Mine was 200 and some change foe the hardware since I was close enough to the juice line that there was no additional charge for running line.
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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valhalla360 wrote:
Yes, a grid connection would be far more convenient and likely cheaper but...
30,000.00 buys a heck of a lot of solar.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
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frankwp
Calgary, AB, Canada
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Be aware that many diesel generators do not like to run for an extended time on light loads. The exhaust system will clog up in a surprisingly short time.
2010 Cruiser CF30QB
2003 GM 2500HD, crew cab, SB, 8.1, Allison
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Dave H M
IL
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pianotuna wrote:valhalla360 wrote:
Yes, a grid connection would be far more convenient and likely cheaper but...
30,000.00 buys a heck of a lot of solar.
can you clarify what you are referring to. 30K for what.
My drop was less than 300 back when and like stated, if I would not have built, there would have been a monthly charge to keep the drop alive/turned on.
I am gone and will not come back to this thread since we have long gone into the ozone layer. ![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/rolleyes.gif "rolleyes")
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valhalla360
No paticular place.
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pianotuna wrote:valhalla360 wrote:
Yes, a grid connection would be far more convenient and likely cheaper but...
30,000.00 buys a heck of a lot of solar.
I'm sure it does...not sure how this is relevant to the conversation though.
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valhalla360
No paticular place.
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frankwp wrote:Be aware that many diesel generators do not like to run for an extended time on light loads. The exhaust system will clog up in a surprisingly short time.
This is another reason to be silly and buy a 30kw generator when loads are unlikely to ever get anywhere close to those levels.
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