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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > bypassing the battery

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Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 11/21/21 09:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OP, do a little more reading and LOOK at your camper and learn the electrical system.
Can you remove battery and still have AC on shore power? Yes.
But your post sounds scary and sort of like a future repair bill ….


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time2roll

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Posted: 11/21/21 09:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Huntindog wrote:

time2roll wrote:

If the RV is plugged in, the battery can be removed. All systems (both 12v and 120v) will work.

And yes a few items might be connected direct to the battery in addition to the main cables. These items need to be connected to the main cables to function.
NOT ALWAYS!!!
This is a blanket statement, that is not true for all RVS.
We are in the Travel Trailer section.
Yes if your travel trailer came with an inverter/charger combo unit, the system may require a battery.


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Posted: 11/21/21 09:47am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CA Traveler wrote:

Just for information: We picked up a rat in Flagstaff AZ and tried every device known to man to catch him while he had a steady diet of apples, peanut butter, bacon etc and chair cushion for comfort. We did not want to use poison and deal with a dead rat that we couldn't find. He stole the mouse trap bait, ate his way out of the biggest glue traps? Electronic repelant devices were like music to him. Rat trap? Nope, he read the label "Danger rat trap" and totally avoided it. We finally caught him in a live trap in Denver, CO.


No experience with the electronic repellant devices, but heard they are a JOKE amongst rodents (gives them a good laugh)! However, as someone mentioned, using an extension cord through an opening (such as slide seal) would give power.

Otherwise, I'd cross out "danger rodent trap", and add "try it, you'll like it", for best results!

Jerry





pianotuna

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Posted: 11/21/21 10:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Turn off the breaker for the converter

Disconnect the positive cable. Wrap it with red electricians tape.

The electronic devices don't seem to work too well. I think the rodent's get used to the noise. They also draw very little power--so they are not very loud.

Put some poison in a tall (24 inch) pail. The rodents will be attracted to it and then are unable to climb out. This works with food items as well. DAMHIK

* This post was last edited 11/21/21 12:36pm by pianotuna *   View edit history


Regards, Don
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Huntindog

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Posted: 11/21/21 12:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll wrote:

Huntindog wrote:

time2roll wrote:

If the RV is plugged in, the battery can be removed. All systems (both 12v and 120v) will work.

And yes a few items might be connected direct to the battery in addition to the main cables. These items need to be connected to the main cables to function.
NOT ALWAYS!!!
This is a blanket statement, that is not true for all RVS.
We are in the Travel Trailer section.
Yes if your travel trailer came with an inverter/charger combo unit, the system may require a battery.
I am aware of what section we are in.

And SOME TTs DO require a battery in the circuit for ALL systems to work.
I had one. A 2001 Wilderness. And it did not have an inverter/charger combo unit.

Please refrain from blanket statements. When you do not even know what TT the OP has.



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time2roll

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Posted: 11/21/21 02:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Huntindog wrote:

And SOME TTs DO require a battery in the circuit for ALL systems to work.
I had one. A 2001 Wilderness. And it did not have an inverter/charger combo unit.
I am intrigued. What did not work? What was the potential damage from no battery?

Huntindog

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Posted: 11/21/21 03:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll wrote:

Huntindog wrote:

And SOME TTs DO require a battery in the circuit for ALL systems to work.
I had one. A 2001 Wilderness. And it did not have an inverter/charger combo unit.
I am intrigued. What did not work? What was the potential damage from no battery?


There were red warning stickers on the cabinent about it. I did not experiment to see what would happen if I ignored the warning.



pianotuna

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Posted: 11/21/21 03:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll,

The old Magnatec converts used the battery to stabilize the voltage. That's why they were so low in charge capability. Without the battery the voltage went pretty high. Not so bad in the old days--but with modern chip based controls--not so good for the devices.

StirCrazy

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Posted: 11/22/21 09:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am still wondering the answer from the first question asked, if your leaving it pluged in why do you want to remove the battery? My last set uf batteries lasted me 14 years being pluged in year round, the only time they wernt pluged in was when we were camping ... if you have a less than ideal converter, just make sure you check water levels, if it is a battery that you can, and top them up once a mont. I check mine every 3 months and a couple days before each trip.

Steve


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StirCrazy

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Posted: 11/22/21 09:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll wrote:

on edit: IN THE ABSENCE OF A RED WARNING STICKER STATING OTHERWISE

If the RV is plugged in, the battery can be removed. All systems (both 12v and 120v) will work.

And yes a few items might be connected direct to the battery in addition to the main cables. These items need to be connected to the main cables to function.


not even then, if your power center doesn't have dc filtering you should not run with out a battery as the 12V coming out will be all over the board and it is hard on lights, the sterio and anything else 12V light the furnace and water pump.. even older ones like what my truck camper came with were even worse, no warning sticker on them either.. Most newer ones should be ok, althought with the track record I, and friends have had with WFCO converters I wouldn't.

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