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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Purchasing Warped Roof 1997 Bigfoot 2500 9’6”?

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3 tons

NV.

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Posted: 12/18/21 04:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

FWIW, I don’t have a BF, but the rust looks totally normal - my 12 yr old fast-gun tie-downs have rust on them as well, where the powder coating has come off…My Eagle Cap’s tiedown points are similar but made of stainless…

3 tons

bigfootford

Fair Oaks, California

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Posted: 12/18/21 07:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

HMS Beagle wrote:

It is a continuing shame that Bigfoot doesn't mold a flat into the roof where the hatch goes over the bed.

It is a code requirement that there be a second means of egress, I've had 3 Bigfeet, two had a hatch you could climb through, my current 10.4 has a Heki which I can easily climb through but it is not rated for escape for some reason so it has a tilt out side window to satisfy code. I ordered the 9.6 I had from the factory (about 96 I think it was) and asked for no hatch, no luggage rail, and no ladder. Why drill all those holes in an otherwise watertight roof? However I ended up with the hatch and ladder because of the escape requirements: must have the hatch, and a way to climb down.


Haw, the 2000 comes with BIG side window on the drivers side. That is the fix for the mandated escape hatch.. Boy I would not like to escape through that head first or leg first..hahahaaa

Agree about the flat roof! Geez look at the Northern light roof... HOLY cow...



Jim


2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Mich 245/70XDS2's, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260,Lifeline 100ah, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Trimetric, Delorme/laptop, Holux gps rec,led lights, Wave-3 heat.

rutzbeck

Haines, AK

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Posted: 12/18/21 08:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Twice I have had my stairs trap the door shut and have had to climb out the escape hatch on the side. It works but you must go out feet first, step on indent at the bottom of the window on the crew cab and then slowly lower till you find the jack foot with your toe. From there grab the top of the jack with a death grip and step off to the running board. The second time the crew cab window was open so was a lot easier. Always make sure your steps don't shift on you. One time it was the snow and the other time the dogs were tied at to the jacks and they moved it. Lots of fun.

bigfootford

Fair Oaks, California

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Posted: 12/19/21 12:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rutzbeck wrote:

Twice I have had my stairs trap the door shut and have had to climb out the escape hatch on the side. It works but you must go out feet first, step on indent at the bottom of the window on the crew cab and then slowly lower till you find the jack foot with your toe. From there grab the top of the jack with a death grip and step off to the running board. The second time the crew cab window was open so was a lot easier. Always make sure your steps don't shift on you. One time it was the snow and the other time the dogs were tied at to the jacks and they moved it. Lots of fun.


Now that story is one for the books!

I have a porch that is lower than the basement access door. My steps are attached to the porch.
Nothing can hang the door up... If something did happen to the door latch then I can now get out via the escape hatch.. Or god forbid, the window.

[image]

Jim

HMS Beagle

Napa, California

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Posted: 12/19/21 10:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rutzbeck wrote:

Twice I have had my stairs trap the door shut and have had to climb out the escape hatch on the side.


That is the reason I know I can climb out the Heki! First trip with the camper, got up in the morning, stairs had shifted, blocked the door. I went out the hatch, across the frost covered roof and down the ladder, stepped onto the top step, back in the door. Had breakfast. Tried to get out again and - same thing! Out the hatch again. The camping neighbors were amused. By next trip I had fixed that problem with a proper stair attachment.

On my supercab, it looks to me like the only convenient step would be the mirror, and I'm not sure it is up to the challenge.


Bigfoot 10.4E, 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 2WD, Autoflex Ultra Air Ride rear suspension, Hellwig Bigwig sway bars front and rear

stupendous_man

USA

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Posted: 12/21/21 11:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just finished checking out the Foot, unfortunately it didn’t go to well. The water damage was severe all throughout the camper. Just about every window, cabinet, and locker had water. Soft spots all over the walls and shell. Powerful, almost dizzying musty smell throughout, along with numerous interior seams pulling apart. Carpeting under the dining table was still damp, and much of the wood was either blackened from water, or just crumbling apart. One of the anchors was cracked, and another was completely separated from the shell. Surely the jack mounts were similar.

The sagging roof was probably water damage, as when I squeezed it, water dripped out of cracks in the roof hatch sealant. I offered him $3k and he countered with $6k, but to be honest I didn’t really want it at all after what I saw. Really disappointing, and a lot of expensive lessons. The owner was nice though, and gave me a snow cone.

d3500ram

Colorado

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Posted: 12/21/21 12:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think it is a good thing that you passed... Even for $3,000 it sounds too far gone from what you described.

I once paid $3K for camper that was less profound, I knew I had to do some work in the OH area and knowing now I would not do it again.

If water is dripping then it is a complete rebuild and IMHO, not worth much.
For you, it is a good thing that he did not take your $3K... from waht you describe, you would be doing him a favor to remove it at no cost.

mbloof

Beaverton, OR

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Posted: 12/21/21 01:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

stupendous_man wrote:

Just finished checking out the Foot, unfortunately it didn’t go to well. The water damage was severe all throughout the camper. Just about every window, cabinet, and locker had water. Soft spots all over the walls and shell. Powerful, almost dizzying musty smell throughout, along with numerous interior seams pulling apart. Carpeting under the dining table was still damp, and much of the wood was either blackened from water, or just crumbling apart. One of the anchors was cracked, and another was completely separated from the shell. Surely the jack mounts were similar.

The sagging roof was probably water damage, as when I squeezed it, water dripped out of cracks in the roof hatch sealant. I offered him $3k and he countered with $6k, but to be honest I didn’t really want it at all after what I saw. Really disappointing, and a lot of expensive lessons. The owner was nice though, and gave me a snow cone.


While they say that a picture is worth a 1000 words, seeing is really believing!!

Contrary to the images you posted that showed a camper in good/decent condition upon actual inspection it was far from that.

Don't give up, there are well maintained campers out there. However I'm afraid your going to have to waste a lot of time looking at 'duds' before finding one.

best of luck on your search!


- Mark0.

ajriding

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Posted: 12/21/21 01:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

HMS Beagle wrote:



The structure actually isn't fiberglass. The structure is a sandwich with a thin skin of fiberglass on the outside, thin luan plywood on the inside, and wood glued in-between to take the shear forces. Foam too, but the foam is quite weak compared to the wood. Each of the elements by themselves is weak and flexible, if any of these elements f... not without reason.


We are not discussing fiberglass siding campers, rather fiberglass campers, built out of fiberglass, not wood. Built like a boat. The fiberglass is the structure. There should be no wood structures in these. Bigfoot is one brand. Big difference.
Might be some wood under the floor, secondary structurer..

Good pass on the mold. That is a health issue and not fun to clean out. Though, fiberglass, if you can reach every area, is fairly straight forward to clean, if you can get to it.

stevenal

Newport, OR, USA

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Posted: 12/21/21 01:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ajriding wrote:

Built like a boat. The fiberglass is the structure. There should be no wood structures in these. Bigfoot is one brand.


Molded fiberglass campers and boats both need additional structure beyond the fiberglass skin. Whether or not there should be wood present, it is in fact present in a 'foot until it rots away.


'18 Bigfoot 1500
Torklifts and Fastguns
'17 F350 Powerstroke Supercab SRW LB 4X4

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