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Lwiddis
Southern California :(
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Joined: 08/12/2016
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"Same guy who doesn't reset the TPMI after rotating the tires."
I check all that dashboard stuff before I leave the dealership...and sometimes before I "check out" and pay by taking an extra key fob. Don't you also mark a tire before paying for a rotation?
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad
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Dadoffourgirls
China, MI USA
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Joined: 05/29/2003
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mkirsch wrote:
Same guy who doesn't reset the TPMI after rotating the tires. I wouldn't mind so much if there was a way a mere mortal such as myself could do it but you need the special tool to communicate with the truck.
I understand that they should reset, but I have purchased the relearn tool since I swap winter and summer wheels/tires on multiple vehicles.
TPMS relearn
Dad of Four Girls
Wife
Employee of GM, all opinions are my own!
2017 Express Ext 3500 (Code named "BIGGER ED" by daughters)
2011 Jayco Jayflight G2 32BHDS
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Joined: 05/06/2013
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BenK wrote:If me, I'd have them flush the OATs coolant on their dime because they left that pressurized cap loose
FYI if you don't know it...OATs (organic acid tech) does NOT play well with O2 in the system and they why the overflow bottle is now pressurized. That is to keep O2 out while checking coolant level. To check these days of OATs & HOATs, just look through the translucent overflow bottle body & the graduations molded into it
The risk is that enough O2 was ingested into the coolant system to do its nasty work with the acid & acid etched metal (oxide) that turns into acidic, gelatinous globules that then stick to the cool-down surfaces of the radiator. That then rots the tube metal
FYI for what it's worth...
I did not know that, thank you. Quick search didn't pick up much about that concern. Do you think it's really feasible that, say, 6hours or so of non pressurized operation could even begin to compromise the coolant?
Heck, I'm still blown away that it didn't boil over!
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Joined: 05/06/2013
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Dadoffourgirls wrote:mkirsch wrote:
Same guy who doesn't reset the TPMI after rotating the tires. I wouldn't mind so much if there was a way a mere mortal such as myself could do it but you need the special tool to communicate with the truck.
I understand that they should reset, but I have purchased the relearn tool since I swap winter and summer wheels/tires on multiple vehicles.
TPMS relearn
You’re saying GM vehicles should “know” the wheel position for TPMS, automatically?
Trying to remember if my 2016 did, because the 2020 does not.
Chryslers back to the 2006 we had and current 2016s know the location after a tire rotation, although I had to turn off the TPMS display function on the 2016 truck to keep from getting the stupid low pressure warning on every startup. Haven’t cared to spend the money to program that feature now that the gubmint took away that ability.
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BenK
SF BayArea
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Joined: 04/18/2002
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Grit dog wrote:snip... Quick search didn't pick up much about that concern.
snip...
Heck, I'm still blown away that it didn't boil over!
Search using 'deathcool' and there should be tons of comments from all makes
As for not boiling over...agree amazing what the engineers have designed into our vehicles today!
And, depends on how hard that truck was driving while that cap was not tight
Thermal management systems for vehicles are designed for the limits of their specifications (warranty line) and has a LOT of headroom above that line.
Like tow rating (MTWR)...these vehicles are designed for that MTWR, plus some more in margin.
Anything below that, it should have almost no problems
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
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FishOnOne
The Great State of Texas
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Joined: 02/12/2011
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Grit dog wrote:BenK wrote:If me, I'd have them flush the OATs coolant on their dime because they left that pressurized cap loose
FYI if you don't know it...OATs (organic acid tech) does NOT play well with O2 in the system and they why the overflow bottle is now pressurized. That is to keep O2 out while checking coolant level. To check these days of OATs & HOATs, just look through the translucent overflow bottle body & the graduations molded into it
The risk is that enough O2 was ingested into the coolant system to do its nasty work with the acid & acid etched metal (oxide) that turns into acidic, gelatinous globules that then stick to the cool-down surfaces of the radiator. That then rots the tube metal
FYI for what it's worth...
I did not know that, thank you. Quick search didn't pick up much about that concern. Do you think it's really feasible that, say, 6hours or so of non pressurized operation could even begin to compromise the coolant?
Heck, I'm still blown away that it didn't boil over!
Air exposure is a bit of a myth for the Dex Cool to break down and form sludge. I'm certain your coolant is just fine and the coolant in the degass bottle is normally exposed to air and that doesn't cause a problem.
'12 Ford Super Duty FX4 ELD CC 6.7 PSD 400HP 800ft/lbs
"250k Miles"
'16 Sprinter 319MKS "Wide Body"
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blofgren
Surrey, B.C.
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Joined: 11/26/2005
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You definitely have to love the quality of work at dealerships. I try to do as much as I can myself and just cringe when I have to take any of my vehicles in to a dealership. Thankfully I have a buddy who has a heavy truck shop that can handle most things I can't; and he's fussier than I am so it's all good! ![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/cool.gif "cool")
2013 Ram 3500 Megacab DRW Laramie 4x4, 6.7L Cummins, G56, 3.73, Maximum Steel, black lthr, B&W RVK3670 hitch, Retrax, Linex, and a bunch of options incl. cargo camera
2008 Corsair Excella Platinum 34.5 CKTS fifth wheel with winter package & disc brakes
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FishOnOne
The Great State of Texas
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Joined: 02/12/2011
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blofgren wrote:You definitely have to love the quality of work at dealerships. I try to do as much as I can myself and just cringe when I have to take any of my vehicles in to a dealership. Thankfully I have a buddy who has a heavy truck shop that can handle most things I can't; and he's fussier than I am so it's all good!
What is the scope of your mechanical aptitude?
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Joined: 05/06/2013
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FishOnOne wrote:
Air exposure is a bit of a myth for the Dex Cool to break down and form sludge. I'm certain your coolant is just fine and the coolant in the degass bottle is normally exposed to air and that doesn't cause a problem.
Thank you. I’m comfortable there is no damage nor will there be. I was being polite.
Not going to be a Karen about it at the dealer either.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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blofgren wrote:You definitely have to love the quality of work at dealerships. I try to do as much as I can myself and just cringe when I have to take any of my vehicles in to a dealership. Thankfully I have a buddy who has a heavy truck shop that can handle most things I can't; and he's fussier than I am so it's all good!
True story.
I’ll qualify with I do the vast majority of my own work too. But here’s a quick rundown of the last few years dealer visits.
Wife’s new charger. Radiator replacement under warranty. Got car back, 2-3 qts low on coolant, air intake clamp not tightened and lower rad hose clamp only half on the fitting.
New, well 60k mile 2 year old Chevy pickup. Trans had issue from day 1. Dealer “no issue, can’t duplicate “. At 60k the trans lets loose. 3 repair attempts and almost 10 weeks later, I get the truck back with a new trans, after 2 failed repair attempts and me racking up over 10k miles on their loaner trucks! Lol. And a service writer that got fired….(He was a dipchit but he was not the mechanics so his contribution to the incompetence stopped at the service desk))
This new truck. First lifter replacement fine except only did 50% of the job. Second half is what started this thread.
So aside from the trans (which eventually went how I told them it was going to when I brought it in) the other 2 repairs are pretty simple, straightforward repairs, both botched up with potentially expensive and time consuming repercussions.
I think snakes, car dealer repairs and my wife when she’s mad are the 3 things that scare me the most in life! Lol.
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