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 > 3d printers for making stuff for the RV

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2112

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Posted: 03/31/22 06:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would think once you understand the concept of creating shapes and extruding them into 3D objects in TinkerCAD, either Fusion 360 or Onshape would move you to the next level. Fusion 360 has tons of support and seems to be layed out more user friendly.

90% of the time I approach it as a machinist. Start with a basic shape of material and start cutting away at it.

I've been doing this for 6 years and see no reason to get away from using the SD card. It just works


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2112

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Posted: 04/01/22 04:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

I know I will be looking into spare nozzles and likely alternative filaments, both color and type.
I forgot to mention in regards to color if you are modeling, DW uses white or gray PLA and either brush paints it with acrylic or sprays with Krylon outdoor plastic furniture rattle can. I use black.

As far as nozzles, they last a Long Time unless you are using abrasive filament. A 0.6mm nozzle will speed up your print time and make a stronger part once properly dialed in.

LittleBill

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Posted: 04/02/22 10:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Wish me luck boys, largest I have ever done. max .04 layer height too, .32

[image][image]
what I am modeling against.





2112

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Posted: 04/03/22 06:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Use a cardboard box with a small viewing window as an enclosure. I used the box my Prusa came in until I had my enclosure built. I cut a small hole in the front to look into and another small hole on the side to shine a small flashlight into. Placing a 60w lamp inside will help keep the heat up.

This is the enclosure I built

[image]

* This post was edited 04/03/22 06:15am by 2112 *

LittleBill

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Posted: 04/03/22 07:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am using petg here. that said I do have touch of warp in 3 corners, i turned the bed up a touch. hopefully it stays in place. its over half a roll of filament for it.

is that garolite?

StirCrazy

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Posted: 04/03/22 08:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LittleBill wrote:

I am using petg here. that said I do have touch of warp in 3 corners, i turned the bed up a touch. hopefully it stays in place. its over half a roll of filament for it.

is that garolite?


Hairspray cured my warping on big prints.

what are you making a base for a light?


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2112

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Posted: 04/03/22 08:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Garolite?

Yea, it sux getting half way through a large print and it starts lifting. More times than not, my experience is it only gets worse as it goes and I just waste more material hoping I can save it. I get irritated when it breaks loose and starts making spaghetti.

Even petg will warp on something that large.
Turn up bed
Turn down nozzle and fan
Slow the speed
Use a raft (that's my last resort)

A simple enclosure made from whatever's available around the house, even a quilt, will help. Put it under a table or two chairs back to back and cover it with sheets and bed spreads to create a tent if you have to. Put a space heater in there but don't get it too hot. Your driver board and power supply has their limits. Sometimes I open the top of the rear panel to vent some heat out.

LittleBill

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Posted: 04/03/22 09:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

StirCrazy wrote:

LittleBill wrote:

I am using petg here. that said I do have touch of warp in 3 corners, i turned the bed up a touch. hopefully it stays in place. its over half a roll of filament for it.

is that garolite?


Hairspray cured my warping on big prints.

what are you making a base for a light?


i despise glue and hairspray. I understand a lot of people use it, If it fails i will run a hotter bed. this is the first failed print, in the last 100, (also my largest)

if you look back the post with pictures, there is a link to what its for. its a base for an autoformer.

LittleBill

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Posted: 04/03/22 09:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

2112 wrote:

Garolite?

Yea, it sux getting half way through a large print and it starts lifting. More times than not, my experience is it only gets worse as it goes and I just waste more material hoping I can save it. I get irritated when it breaks loose and starts making spaghetti.

Even petg will warp on something that large.
Turn up bed
Turn down nozzle and fan
Slow the speed
Use a raft (that's my last resort)

A simple enclosure made from whatever's available around the house, even a quilt, will help. Put it under a table or two chairs back to back and cover it with sheets and bed spreads to create a tent if you have to. Put a space heater in there but don't get it too hot. Your driver board and power supply has their limits. Sometimes I open the top of the rear panel to vent some heat out.


Was hoping the warping would eventually stop. I am going to chance this, since the warp on the bottom really doesn't matter, your not inspiring confidence.

what is garolite

I was going to buy a larger frame printer, but after seeing how much this print is going to cost, I am questioning that.

im going to try a brim next with a higher bed temp, if it fails. I have never been nervous before, but now I am a touch.

had another clog, glad i was in the room. NOT HAPPY with this cardboard ****, now i get to design a filament cleaner for this stuff.

2112

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Posted: 04/03/22 09:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Garolite - Ah, G10. You're talking about the build plate. That's a red FR4 heat plate with a sheet of borosilicate glass clamped to it. I print on glass. That's the original build plate setup.

I upgraded my build plate to a multi-zone heated, PEI coated plate and didn't like it. It stuck too well and it wasn't removable, although it was a little larger. I went back to original.

With this setup I can remove the glass and easily evenly coat it with either a thin layer of glue stick or ABS juice. If the part is stuck on hard after the print I take it to the sink and run a little cold water over it and the part pops right off. Small PLA or PETG parts don't require prep. Just print on clean glass.

Now they have the magnetic flexible PEI sheets. I MIGHT upgrade to that someday but I appreciate what I have. It just works and makes a nice smooth bottom layer.

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