profdant139

Southern California

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Joined: 11/14/2005

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Hmmm. The filters are fine -- they are thin little foam pads that are easily cleaned. They are very flimsy -- you can see right through them.
So it's the evap coil, which we could not get access to. It's in a sealed plastic box, as I mentioned above. I suppose I could have broken the seal and boldly cleaned where no one has cleaned before.
But I am going to let a pro do it, so that I have someone else to blame when things go wrong.
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
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"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."
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MFL

Midwest

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Yes, likely the coil, which needs to be well sealed. Not sure what model AC you have (maybe I missed it), but if someone else does the cleaning, be sure to check that they resealed it properly after cleaning. You should be able to remove the cover on the inside, look up, and don't want to see any daylight.
Jerry
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ajriding

st clair

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Joined: 12/28/2004

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Taking the box apart is not at all high tech. No hourly employee is needed, you can re-tape it yourself just as well as an RV guy who hurries thorough it. Duct tape is literally made for AC ducts and sealing off air. Use the shiny metal-looking tape, not the dull gray tape. If you need foam then reuse what you removed or use anything similar. This is one of the least complex systems on your RV, all you are doing is sealing off very very low pressure airflow.
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Cummins12V98

on the road

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This is the tape you want. Commercial quality and it does STICK!!! Be sure the surface is clean.
Nashua Foil Tape Multi Purpose 50.3 Ft. Aluminum Silver 2" wide
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"
"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600
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2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD
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Gdetrailer

PA

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frankwp wrote: profdant139 wrote:
So, now we will test out the a/c and see if it still ices up (as it had been doing). If it does, we will call a mobile repair guy. We gave it our best shot, and there is nothing more that we can do by ourselves.
There is a time to boldly DIY, and then there is a time when discretion is the better part of valor.
Icing up indicates insufficient airflow over the evaporator coil, so either the filter is clogged or the coil is dirty.
In addition, excessive icing up under normal air temperatures and humidity can be a sign of low refrigerant when the A/C starts losing refrigerant.. And with most RV A/C units, it is factory sealed with no service ports..
There is a way to determine if you have proper refrigerant levels without a port described HERE
HERE is a video showing a basic diagnosis using compressor amp draw along with in temp and output temp.
And sometimes there is absolutely nothing wrong with the A/C and it freezes up due to the air temps and humidity level at the time of use.
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wa8yxm

Davison Michigan (East of Flint)

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"So, now we will test out the a/c and see if it still ices up (as it had been doing). If it does, we will call a mobile repair guy. We gave it our best shot, and there is nothing more that we can do by ourselves."
The Evap coils "Dirty up" on the side you can easily see and clean by removing the ceiling cover and looking UP.. (Inside the RV)
There are several causes for Icing.
Not enough air flow over Evap is one (Dirty intake filters, Dirty Evap, Blower on LOW) Low refrigerant is another (Causes the evap to get too cold)
Many RV A/C units have a frost sensor. This is a "probe" that is SUPPOSED to be stuck into the Evap coils.. sometimes they forget to stick it and leave it in the drip tray.. The job of this sensor is to shut down the compressor when it starts to Ice up.
I've had people who claimed to be A/C service folk tell me they have never seen low refrigerant cause icing.. I've seen it several times (Though I'll admit not in an RV unit) from Window units to industrial units I've seen it.
NOTE: Fixing that ... Well I know how to do it but not sure I can get what I need.... Professional assistance suggested.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times
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Veebyes

Bermuda & Maryland Eastern Shore

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I suppose that I should get up there & clean mine.
Any thoughts on using a compressor? Figure blow the dirt back the way it came in.
Boat: 32' 1996 Albin 32+2, single Cummins 315hp
40+ night per year overnighter
2007 Alpenlite 34RLR
2006 Chevy 3500 LT, CC,LB 6.6L Diesel
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ken56

Tennessee

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Does your thermostat have a high and low setting for the fan? For air conditioning it should be on high and for heat it is on low. Too easy to overlook the simple things...don't ask me how I know.
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profdant139

Southern California

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Many good tips! Yes, the thermostats and fan settings are all where they should be. I don't think it's low refrigerant -- the a/c works great, until it ices up, which takes a while.
I should remove the interior air distribution box so that I can see the evap coil from inside the trailer. If it looks bad, then I will have to think hard about going back onto the roof and opening up the plastic box that surrounds the evap coil.
I like the idea of using aluminum tape to re-seal the box -- assuming that it does not shatter while we are trying to open it.
Now for the hard part -- persuading DW to participate in this next experiment in DIY A/C maintenance.
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MFL

Midwest

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profdant139 wrote: "Now for the hard part -- persuading DW to participate in this next experiment in DIY A/C maintenance."
Behind every strong, confident man, stands a great wife!
Jerry
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