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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Lithium batteries and alternator protection.

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3 tons

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Posted: 03/16/22 03:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The smart alternator feature is intended to save fuel by allowing your engine starting battery to achieve only about 80% of it’s full capacity…In most cases this amount is quite sufficient for engine starting, and is achieved by the premature lowering of it’s output voltage, thus the ‘potential need’ (post evaluation…) for a dc-to-dc charger to provide continuous, regulated current and voltage (to prevent alternator overload) to the house battery…

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Posted: 03/16/22 07:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll wrote:

Tom_M wrote:

I have had my Renogy 170ah lithium battery for 2 years and have had no issues with it hooked directly to the alternator.
Any chance a measurement of the charging amps was noted? Please post if available.
Had a couple of days of clouds and rain and battery shut down on me so decided to check while charging from alternator.

I'm measuring current with clamp meter at battery. When battery isolator kicked in, current started at 100 amps and within 10 seconds started ramping down. After about 5 minutes the current was down to about 30 amps and dropped down to about 15 amps after 15 minutes.

I couldn't easily get to the alternator feed so the initial current surge may have come from my chassis battery. Engine was running at idle.


Tom
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deltabravo

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Posted: 03/19/22 05:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I went with a Victron Orion TR Smart 12-12-30 DC to DC Charger. It was much smaller than the Renogy unit I first bought and was going to install. With the Victron unit, I can control and monitor it with the Victron Connect app.

Here's a video of the project.


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LittleBill

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Posted: 03/19/22 06:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

deltabravo wrote:

I went with a Victron Orion TR Smart 12-12-30 DC to DC Charger. It was much smaller than the Renogy unit I first bought and was going to install. With the Victron unit, I can control and monitor it with the Victron Connect app.

Here's a video of the project.


do you have a side by side of the two?





otrfun

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Posted: 03/19/22 08:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tom/Barb wrote:

otrfun wrote:


Bottom line, if you don't know the voltage/current readings at all your critical I/O points, then you haven't accomplished the minimum due diligence necessary to determine whether your system is truly operating as designed or not.
It's all on my iPad./phone. (Bluetooth)
Care to share all the voltage/current readings (battery/alternator, charger input, charger output, and battery terminals) for your Victron dc2dc charger install. Charger output current/voltage readings alone reveal very little.

pianotuna

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Posted: 03/19/22 10:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Nice clean install.

What are the input amps when output is 25 amps?


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

S Davis

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Posted: 03/20/22 11:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

StirCrazy wrote:

S Davis wrote:

theoldwizard1 wrote:

CA Traveler wrote:

Also 13.2V would not be a issue for me as it indicates a charged battery and the alternator is only supplying chassis and converter loads. A higher voltage indicates the chassis battery is drawing amps so at least the DC-DC converter has less conversion losses.

Almost all vehicles for the past 15-20 years or so, use some kind of a smart charging system. The voltage from the alternator is controlled by the engine computer and can vary over a wide range.


Not on 2009, 2013, 2019 GM 2500HD diesels, my last three trucks all have had steady voltage at about 14.2 no matter what. They must be in the almost none category.

One of my Redarc 50 amp chargers pulls 50 amps from the alternator and output is about 46 amps to the batteries, so on Redarc it looks like the rating is what is pulled from the alternator.


Im not sure when GM started doing it but your 2013 and 2019 should have smart altanators, but may not. you would have to look for the shunt as GM did it differently and it should be part of your negitive batery post atachment.

GM uses a shunt system whil ford uses a two wire bus.. as well other things might be different as in the voltage setting and such but ventualy when your battery is full in your truck and if your not using a ton of other power hungry stuff it will go down to a maintance voltage. this is to both give longer life to the altanator and the batteries. as for dc to dc chargers a lot of the input output power descrepencies are from wire size also.


I have monitored alternator voltage on all my trucks and they never have gone below 14.2, my 2013 used to run a little higher at about 14.4. Same voltage when I start the truck and the same voltage over a seven hour drive. I have a volt meter on the dash.

time2roll

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Posted: 03/20/22 12:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

S Davis wrote:

I have monitored alternator voltage on all my trucks and they never have gone below 14.2, my 2013 used to run a little higher at about 14.4. Same voltage when I start the truck and the same voltage over a seven hour drive. I have a volt meter on the dash.
Still not an issue for a truck charging a trailer LFP through the 7-pin connector.


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S Davis

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Posted: 03/20/22 05:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll wrote:

S Davis wrote:

I have monitored alternator voltage on all my trucks and they never have gone below 14.2, my 2013 used to run a little higher at about 14.4. Same voltage when I start the truck and the same voltage over a seven hour drive. I have a volt meter on the dash.
Still not an issue for a truck charging a trailer LFP through the 7-pin connector.


I agree, depending on the voltage drop in the 7-pin circuit. You could still over charge the LifeP04 if the 7- pin doesn’t have enough voltage drop.

What I don’t agree on is the blanket statement that most all newer vehicles have smart alternators systems. If the Chevy diesels have it my last two trucks have been broken.

time2roll

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Posted: 03/20/22 05:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Drop in batteries allow and recommend 14.6 volts. If it is DIY the max battery voltage and be limited at your choice.

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