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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > No hot water flow, stopped up ?

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larry barnhart

wenatchee. wa usa

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Posted: 03/27/22 03:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I removed our broken check value and everything was ok but I never winterized . chevman


chevman
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wa8yxm

Davison Michigan (East of Flint)

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Posted: 03/27/22 03:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MrWizard wrote:

What is the reason for the check valve in the output ?


There are 3 different types of water heater bypass systems
1 valve
2 valve
3 valve

All 3 have pipes in a sideways "H" pattern Or a wide capitol I if you have the proper font) The top line is usually red and is the HOT pipe
The bottom usually white and COLD The vertical pipe is the bypass and can be any color
On the 3 valve system the bottom is often white and the top red

On the 3 valve system the tank side of the bypass line has a valve in the hot and cold lines (one valve each) and ther is a valve in the bypass.. To USE close the bypass valve so the pipe and handle are like this + and open the other two (=)

To bypass. reverse that.

Next is the 2 valve system. these are 3 way valves
With the handle pointed towards or away from the heater.. USE
With the handles pointed either toward or away from each other BYPASS

Finally we have the single valve system
one 3 way valve in the cold line.. it either sends water into the tank or into the bypass.. but if it's sending water into the bypass what's to keep it from "Back filling" the heater via the hot water outlet?

The check valve of course


Home was where I park it. but alas the.
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JBarca

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Posted: 03/27/22 03:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MrWizard wrote:

What is the reason for the check valve in the output ?

Stop cold water being syphon into the tank when the water in the pipes cools after the faucet/shower has been turned off ?

I don't have a replacement, and unless its a safety reason, I'm not going to replace it, as long as it operates without it

I want max flow hot water !!


The check valve is part of the winterizing by pass kit. The bottom of the heater has 3 way valve, and the top has a check valve so the antifreeze will not go backwards into the heater and use up 6 gallons of antifreeze. Or 10 gallons if you have the bigger heater.

Here is the kit installed from Sunline.

You can see the brass check on top
[image]

The yellow arrow is pointing to the 3 way valve on the bottom.
[image]

This is another model then the one above. Same setup
[image]

During the heater unhooking process, you can see the white plunger in the check valve on the top fitting.
[image]

I myself do not like the check valve setup after having so many failures with them as the camper gets older. I restore older water damaged campers. Every heater I pull out gets a 2 valve bypass added to get rid of the plastic straight thread PEX fittings the factory used which leak as time goes on and eliminate the check valve.
[image]

This may not work in your case as you have no room for it at the back of the heater, just showing you so you know what it does.

I use brass machined hex nipples to correct the plastic straight running thread fitting issue, then remove the check and top Tee, and install a Flair-It 3 way valve. This becomes a 2 valve bypass setup.
[image]

You talked about removing the check, the system will work normally without the top check valve, the issue comes when you want to bypass the heater to add RV antifreeze.

Good luck on your cut and hassle project. I know they can be frustrating.

John

* This post was edited 03/27/22 05:37pm by JBarca *


John & Cindy

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MrWizard

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Posted: 03/27/22 11:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

[image]

I obtained limited access,
I made it work
The check valve was all plastic, a brass 90 between valve and water line
[image]

It's been gutted & cleaned and I'm going out to put things back together, weather forecast is rain for Monday starting about 3 am, so I want to finish this,
All the water and LP is turned off, got to put this back or cap/plug the water line

Back together her ready to test,

No LP leak, already checked for that, using the red stuff,

* This post was edited 03/28/22 12:56am by MrWizard *


I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

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pianotuna

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Posted: 03/28/22 12:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I hope you will have an access hatch after all this effort!


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

schlep1967

Harrisburg, PA

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Posted: 03/28/22 06:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Wizard, What is that wooden wall right behind your pic of the installed check valve? If you can access that from the other side, that would get an access panel added if it were my camper. That way when you get a replacement check valve, available at any Lowe's of Home Depot, you can easily replace it.


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JBarca

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Posted: 03/28/22 06:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for reporting back.

They sure buried that one deep inside never to be seen. Wow...

Bobbo

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Posted: 03/28/22 07:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

schlep1967 wrote:

Wizard, What is that wooden wall right behind your pic of the installed check valve? If you can access that from the other side, that would get an access panel added if it were my camper. That way when you get a replacement check valve, available at any Lowe's of Home Depot, you can easily replace it.

If you install a permanent access panel, I would opt for a shut-off in that water line and forgo the check valve. Change from a 1 valve system to a 2 valve system.


Bobbo and Lin
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MrWizard

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Posted: 03/28/22 07:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It's more like a spring loaded trap door, that doesn't open all the way,
Opens about 40° instead of 90°, because the LP lines are in the way, and I have to hold it open, because I didn't cut it all the way through all the way across
But it Is Access
Hopefully I will never have to do this again ,

MrWizard

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Posted: 03/28/22 07:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That wooden "wall" is the roof/top of the wh compartment, and is also the floor under the rear lp Furnace used for warming the bath and bedroom,
The perspective is from laying on my back under the RV, looking up at the enclosure ,
Task is complete, and this is the best hot water flow in several years,
The way it is installed, means no interior.storage space was appropriated , but it's ??the pits.to work on
[image]

* This post was edited 03/28/22 09:14am by MrWizard *

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