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schlep1967

Harrisburg, PA

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Joined: 12/08/2005

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Posted: 03/28/22 07:50am

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So much for creating easy access. If you do replace the check valve in the future, pay attention to the direction of flow arrow. It won't matter on the gutted one you have now but it will on a working one.
Did you find all of the old pieces of the check valve?

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lane hog

Tucson, AZ & NW Chicago Burbs, IL

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Posted: 03/28/22 08:01am

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With all the generator advice Mr. Wizard has given over the years, it pains me to see him having this kind of trouble with something that shouldn't be this difficult to fix...

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dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 03/28/22 08:46am

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The ONLY reason a W/H would require a check valve is if it is part of the Bypass system, that uses a handle and not the 3 valves behind the Water Heater. YEARS ago, RV's built in California required the check valve due to state plumbing codes. Once California dropped this requirement for RV's they stopped installing them. The problem with Check Valves that are NOT part of the Bypass system is, the usually had a squealing/humming noise when water flowed thru them. National Motor homes(built in California) were the brands we sold and serviced. We would remove the check valves when customers complained about the noise. National were the ones to inform us about the California code that required that check valve. But since our customers were not in California, we could remove the check valve. I always use and tell people to use the BRASS CHECK VALVE when replacing a faulty check valve. In this case, if you HAVE a single lever Bypass valve, Odds are you need to have that valve installed to make the Bypass system work correctly. Doug

MrWizard

Traveling

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Joined: 06/27/2004

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Posted: 03/28/22 01:29pm

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Doug thanks for the info,
I don't winterize , because I'm full-time,
I'm just glad to have hot water flowing again

I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !
....

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MrWizard

Traveling

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Posted: 03/28/22 01:42pm

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Schlep
I installed it the correct way, there was no way to put this one.backwards, in this install, input end is male threads into the wh, the output is female, brass elbows is male on both ends , HW..line female connect to elbow,
Found the plunger/gate no spring, the first elbow in the system is the one attached to check valve, I think that spring rusted away sometime ago, nothing but water came out when I blew out the line
Before cleaning
[image]

* This post was edited 03/29/22 04:38pm by MrWizard *

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 03/28/22 03:20pm

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No offense, but I think I would have replaced the check valve with a brass one.
I also saw what looked like calcium type deposit in the one fitting. That could be an indication of build-up in water heater tank. How often do you flush the tank?

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Gottahaveit

Stockton CA

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Posted: 03/28/22 11:03pm

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Woooo Hoooo George !!! Glad you got it fixed and have some awesome hot water again. Miss seeing you and happy to see your posts. Had us Mods worried for a bit [emoticon]

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MrWizard

Traveling

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Posted: 03/29/22 04:27pm

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Yes there was some calcium deposit, I cleaned out of the elbow, there could be some in the WH but all I ever get when flushing or draining is clear water, any deposits are harden and pre-existing from the previous owner, I was surprised when I saw the deposits in the elbow and check valve,
I thought about removing the pop off valve and pouring a few gallons of CLR into the water heater via a funnel and letting it soak overnight, put it on bypass leave it turned off,
Then drain & flush the next day
Any body try this,
I've been looking at Cellphone Borescopes online , it's been several times now that I could have used one to inspect a problem situation

MrWizard

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Posted: 03/29/22 04:50pm

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Before being removed

[image]

Before being separated and cleaned
[image]

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 03/29/22 05:40pm

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I have used white vinegar on faucets and shower heads. 50/50 vinegar and water.
If it is the bottom (where it normally is) you would not mush over two gallons of mix.