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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > No hot water flow, stopped up ?

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JBarca

Radnor, Ohio, USA

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Joined: 12/16/2004

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Posted: 03/30/22 06:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MrWizard wrote:

Yes there was some calcium deposit, I cleaned out of the elbow, there could be some in the WH but all I ever get when flushing or draining is clear water, any deposits are harden and pre-existing from the previous owner, I was surprised when I saw the deposits in the elbow and check valve,
I thought about removing the pop off valve and pouring a few gallons of CLR into the water heater via a funnel and letting it soak overnight, put it on bypass leave it turned off,
Then drain & flush the next day
Any body try this,
I've been looking at Cellphone Borescopes online , it's been several times now that I could have used one to inspect a problem situation


I'm not sure about the CLR treatment, but I have done the Atwood white vinegar boil out on several Atwood water heaters. Atwood had instructions for this in their service manuals, I did not come up with this myself. The basics are on a 6 gallon water heater, add 4 gallons of white vinegar with 2 gallons of fresh water. I drained the water heater, then pumped the vinegar in using the camper winterizing valve at the water pump, followed with 2 gallons of fresh water. Let the system heat and soak with it on and hot. I have left them on and hot overnight when the scale is real bad. Drain all vinegar and flush.

The Attwood procedure shows up on the page 27 of the 2004 Atwood service manual and other years service manuals tweaked slightly pending the publication date. See here on Chris Bryant's site, all the way to the bottom under Miscellaneous Documents. I knew I could find it here for you.
http://bryantrv.com/docs.html

I have borescope'ed the heaters before and after the vinegar boil out. It has been very effective in removing the scale build up. I have some pics inside if you want, I'll hunt them up, just let me know.

Hope this helps

John


John & Cindy

2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
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2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
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HTElectrical

Las Vegas

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Posted: 03/30/22 07:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would not use CLR.to Caustic.
There is a product called RYDLYME Biodegradable Descaler Great stuff. I service Steam generators, and Boilers, and this is the industry preference.


2007 Duramax, Cognito 7"-9" Lift,


JBarca

Radnor, Ohio, USA

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Posted: 03/30/22 09:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

HTElectrical wrote:

I would not use CLR.to Caustic.
There is a product called RYDLYME Biodegradable Descaler Great stuff. I service Steam generators, and Boilers, and this is the industry preference.


Hi HTE,

The Rydlyme looks to be some good stuff, wish I knew about it for work as we had to clean out steam and water cooking tanks. I did not see it rated on aluminum. I may have missed it, have you used it on 7072 aluminum which is what the Atwood water heater tanks are made from?

Just checking.

Thanks

John

MrWizard

Traveling

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Posted: 03/31/22 01:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

John & HTE
Thanks get much for the info, I will pickup some vinegar and try that procedure

Yes John I would like to see those pictures thank you


I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using Verizon and AT&T
1997 F53 Bounder 36s


HTElectrical

Las Vegas

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Posted: 03/31/22 11:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The rule of thumb is that if the alloy is designed for use in a water system (aluminum engine block, aluminum mold, etc.), the alloy should be compatible with the RYDLYME solution. Otherwise, it is recommended that the RYDLYME be diluted 50% or more with water when cleaning.

I personally Dilute 70/30 when cleaning boilers. (70 water/ 30 Rydlyme).

The reason for that is the procedure for descaling calls for the unit to brought up to temp., and if excessive foaming occurs, the heating element will literally explode. $900.00 element

HTElectrical

Las Vegas

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Posted: 03/31/22 11:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JBarca wrote:

HTElectrical wrote:

I would not use CLR.to Caustic.
There is a product called RYDLYME Biodegradable Descaler Great stuff. I service Steam generators, and Boilers, and this is the industry preference.


Hi HTE,

The Rydlyme looks to be some good stuff, wish I knew about it for work as we had to clean out steam and water cooking tanks. I did not see it rated on aluminum. I may have missed it, have you used it on 7072 aluminum which is what the Atwood water heater tanks are made from?

Just checking.

Thanks

John



It is used for commercial steam cleaning in food service, also.

todsme

Idaho

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Posted: 04/02/22 12:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

May already be posted. Did you try removing tank anode /drain plug? flush or run city water through.


Rver

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