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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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MrWizard wrote:Doug thank you, I will look again, to verify no access panel on the enclosure,
Then attempt to remove it by sliding it out,
Not knowing for sure that there are flex hoses, was a big concern,
The burner does come on, it does make hot water, opening the over temp valve gives a strong spray of hot water,
The number is correct no EXT no heat exchanger
I was hopping you or someone had serviced this exact setup and knew positively how it is installed,
It all depends on the OEM. I have had Winne and Fleetwood and Monaco that you had to pull the Water Heater to access the back where the water lines are. I have also cut my own access panel instead of pulling the W/H. I cut the back of the galv back wall IF I have at least a foot behind that panel. Using an Air chisel with a metal cutter blade, I can do this is less than 2 or 3 minutes. I then install a larger plate to cover the hole. This way, you always have access for the future. Doug
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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This is what I use. Doug
">&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281698275816!!!g!46........-BuW02twiqA2nsaAg1xEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
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BFL13
Victoria, BC
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BFL13 wrote:"94° where the hot water tube comes into the bay and connects to the vertical tube..That's the closest one far left in the picture of the bay, only 80° on the horizontal cross over"
Does that indicate the blockage is at the elbow there, where you can get at it?
I guess I missed something, but I was thinking that 94 meant you had hot water out to the elbow so you don't have to bust in to get at the back of the WH. If the check valve moved downstream as mentioned then it could be hung up at the elbow.
Without knowing any better, IMO just cut that elbow out and see what's what. Easier to plumb in a new elbow than bust in or pull out the WH.
Pulling the WH is a huge PITA and putting it all back together no fun either. There was a good video which helped me a lot thank goodness.
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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BFL13 wrote:BFL13 wrote:"94° where the hot water tube comes into the bay and connects to the vertical tube..That's the closest one far left in the picture of the bay, only 80° on the horizontal cross over"
Does that indicate the blockage is at the elbow there, where you can get at it?
I guess I missed something, but I was thinking that 94 meant you had hot water out to the elbow so you don't have to bust in to get at the back of the WH. If the check valve moved downstream as mentioned then it could be hung up at the elbow.
Without knowing any better, IMO just cut that elbow out and see what's what. Easier to plumb in a new elbow than bust in or pull out the WH.
Pulling the WH is a huge PITA and putting it all back together no fun either. There was a good video which helped me a lot thank goodness.
Pulling a Water heater is extremely easy. If you have access to the back of the W/H, you just disconnect the 2 water lines. IF NO ACCESS, they have enough extra water line to pull out enough to disconnect the 2 water lines. If no Battery screw gun, then yes a PITA. Doug
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MrWizard
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Barry I think the heat is mainly conduction via the water itself, like heating one end of metal rod,
And look closely at those drain tubes, the brass elbows and the tight clearances, and I'm quite sure there are more elbows inside the enclosure behind that wall, broken parts from the check valve are back there inside the tubing inside the enclosure, NOT accessible at this time
Doug not sure it's clear in the photo, there is room behind the box, to cut into it, but I would much rather not do that, but I will if that's the only way,
I have No Air Tools, most require more CFMs than my compressor can supply, hand tools & electric tools, No pneumatic hammer, I have a nice electric Impact wrench for Lug Nuts or Bolts that need loosening
I have to restore hot water flow, I am not a cold shower person, especially Not ..cold weather, cold water from the fresh water tank,
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I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !
....
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MrWizard
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The picture looking up from underneath is not very good, the perspective is off, so is the lighting,
The longer box at the top of the picture is an RV LP heater for.the.rear of the RV, it is located directly over the water heater, shorter box is the water heater, I took the picture while laying on my back under.the RV,
Looking up at angle
Perhaps the picture of the side of the RV, will help some members understand,
You can see the W.H. Located Between the rear Mor-Ryde tag axle and the door for the Utility Bay/wet bay
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/izC6ps8l.png)
Open the bay door, and you see the waterline pix in the first post
This image below, is looking up from under the RV, shows the LP lines for heater/furnace & WH
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/RVho0g9l.jpg)
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schlep1967
Harrisburg, PA
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I know you don't want to hear it but it looks like your only option is to pull the water heater. Find some gasket material to make a new seal from or order a new one based on the water heater info before you start removing screws.
My advice is once you have the water heater out figure out if you can make an access point to get back into the check valve in the future. My 5th wheel is 12 years old and I have replaced 2 of them already. The new check valves don't last like the old ones did.
Also, on mine there is a rubber insert/gasket on the check valve. I had to move that from the old to the new to get a seal when reinstalling. It's not included on the new one. You may or may not have that.
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BFL13
Victoria, BC
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You have the two short grey lines just coming into the bay, the lower is the hot. Then a T on the hot and white lines from that. No hot water out and down the hot water drain,(? assume was tried) so definite block at that side of the T at least
You want to know if there is hot water with good flow at least out the short part of the grey line showing before it goes into the T, but it is too hard to get at.
My cunning plan is to undo the two white plastic clamps one by the T and the other higher up on that vertical, and pull on the T so more grey comes out. The story is there is some slack on that grey line behind the WH so you can pull the WH, so that same slack should allow you to pull some grey line farther out into the bay.
You might have hot water in the grey as far as the T based on the 94 to 80 drop in temps. IMO still worth a try, nothing to lose, by doing some plumbing at the T now you can get at it better with more grey line in the bay.
I like the newer poke in in connection parts they have now for Ts and elbows instead of the metal clamps like on there now, so putting in a new T and added water line if needed is fairly easy.
Then if no joy with the hot water out that grey line you know you have to bust in or pull the heater from outside.
On that-- you will need a stand to set the heater on as there is probably not enough slack to set it down, and be able to hold it while you try to undo connections at the back if it comes to that. Also the propane line slack will not likely be enough and it will have to stay behind but then finding it to get it through its hole to the front again could be tricky when you are operating blind when reinstalling. String on it to pull through? You have to reseal that hole where the propane line comes out so gas can't get in behind the WH into the RV. Can't remember how the electrical wiring goes if you have any. I had access at the back when I did it.
The tank will have an insulated cover that has to clear the access hole in the side of the RV. Older ones have cardboard and newer have styrofoam. The styrofoam ones are fatter and more awkward to wiggle out and put back in. I think a 1997 will be the cardboard one though.
* This post was
edited 03/18/22 10:34am by BFL13 *
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schlep1967
Harrisburg, PA
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Silly thought. All of the plumbing is attached to and coming out of the furnace box. Can you open up the furnace panel on the outside of the trailer? There may be access from inside that panel.
Edit: Looking closer it looks like it would be between the water heater and the furnace.
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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schlep1967 wrote:Silly thought. All of the plumbing is attached to and coming out of the furnace box. Can you open up the furnace panel on the outside of the trailer? There may be access from inside that panel.
Edit: Looking closer it looks like it would be between the water heater and the furnace.
There is no access. Once the furnace door is removed you still have the Galvanized metal box of the Furnace. Covering any access on top the W/H. Doug
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