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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > No hot water flow, stopped up ?

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MrWizard

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Posted: 03/19/22 01:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bad news good news
It's pex ? Tubing all the way, No Flex , water heater only moves about 2 inches, but I was.able to peek in, see the tubing and take some pictures,
This sent me back under the RV, where more light, brighter flashlights, I was able to see lines of an access plate, and screw heads, so tomorrow/Saturday I will attempt to get access to the water connections

[image]
Top line is LP to RV Heater
Second line is l.p. To water heater (Copper Tubing)

[image]
By adjusting the image contrast and color tone, the screws for removing the access cover become more visible, they are very hard to see while under the RV

I have pix of the tubing inside the enclosure, but my phone is giving me error msg "previous operation not completed, not enough memory" when I try to upload to our image host account at IMGUR,

* This post was last edited 03/19/22 08:25pm by MrWizard *   View edit history


I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s


MrWizard

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Posted: 03/19/22 05:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

[image]

The pipes are not really blue,
Image just came out that way

They are the normal translucent white color

MrWizard

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Posted: 03/19/22 09:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Access plate 3 screws on the bottom 3 screws on top..I think ! There is so much undercoat I can't find them,
I got the bottom 3 out, plus a 4th screw that was coming thru from the inside out and was holding the access plate locked in place, I had to use pliers to loosen it then a hammer to knock it back into the enclosure, but I still need to get the top 3 screws out, to remove the plate, it can't even be pried up enough to.peek inside because of the LP tubing that is in the way,

This has become a real PITA,
IF this drags out past Sunday , I'm going to need a Yankee alternative, like plumbing a portable propane camping shower inside, or an electric hot water unit, I have never worked on one that was such a pain to access and service, the Onan starter was easier to replace, than getting access to the water lines on this water heater , I ran new fuel line and external fuel pump on this beast for the 460", including new power wires for the pump, and it was less head ache than this,
Very Frustrated tired and Grumpy, my repair thread is turning into a Rant Thread, Having the WH right under the shower .. Was great before this malfunction,
I'm starting to feel like this guy
Joe Btfsplk from Lil Abner

[image]

* This post was edited 03/19/22 10:03pm by MrWizard *

BFL13

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Posted: 03/19/22 10:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not sure if there was anything wrong with my previous plan (A) if it was not tried, but here is Plan B.

Remove the relief valve and put a water line in there instead (might even use a Y and have the relief valve and a water line). Pass the water line around outside into the bay and connect it to the hot water line somewhere.

Ok for when parked but you can't close the outside doors. Have the water line in two that join so you can undo it there and tuck the lines in each side and close the doors. Means put stops in each end . If you used the hot drain line to connect to it already has that stopper on top of the elbow if hot water will then go up the drain line and into the T and up the vertical.

Something like that, whatever works best.


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MrWizard

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Posted: 03/19/22 11:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tomorrow
In going to put a wire wheel on my cordless and go at that under coat and find those screws, hopefully the LP lines won't prevent me from getting at those , or at the output line on the back of the wh provided, I can get the upper screws out and remove the cover,
I'd be willing to bend the @$&# out if it, but I can't with those LP lines there, Also it's pretty good steel, not thin sheet like might be expected,
That's the nicest thing I can say about this "Cluster F"
Good solid job, with good materials, it is not going to fall apart going down the highway, 25 years old, and could be just as solid at 50 yrs, the water heater will still be there, when I reach 99

* This post was edited 03/20/22 12:03am by MrWizard *

MrWizard

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Posted: 03/20/22 12:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Barry
I don't have any PEX crimping tools, and as you can see in the plumbing pictures, it's all done that way, I would need a nipple that threads into pop off, and hose and clamps to connect from there to the drain, and wonder what the flow rate would be, drain valve has got to be even more restrictive than those elbows,
And the pop off valve would no longer be a safety,
There is a duplex outlet in the Utility Bay, and the pipes are right there, IF I want to try going electric, but I have doubts about on demand 120v electric hot water for a shower

* This post was edited 03/20/22 12:23am by MrWizard *

BFL13

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Posted: 03/20/22 07:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My workaround thoughts are just for when nothing else works of course. Doug might know what to do in that puzzling situation to get it done right.

I meant cut the tubing to eliminate where the metal clamps are and use these things. Once you get access to the back of the WH I ASSume you will have to do some of this anyway to clear the blockage, wherever it is along the way.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=Watts+qui........6iAG4CZIBBDE2LjOYAQCgAQE&sclient=gws-wiz

They work with copper, PEX, or PVC tubing so you can mix tubing types and they come in various tube sizes and adaptor size to size and some have built in shut offs. I love these things! Eg beats trying to heat copper pipe to solder when they still have water in them.

Yes, on demand hot water is no good for RV off grid as it uses tons of water to keep the flow going to keep the water hot

Those shower bags you hang up filled with water you heated on the stove are not very satisfactory but sort of work until you get a better way.

The relief valve safety requirement for plan B was to use a Y and have the safety on one branch of that. Threading type/size on the valve into the tank could be a problem to match but they have adapters.

* This post was edited 03/20/22 08:07am by BFL13 *

enblethen

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Posted: 03/20/22 08:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would not being making modifications to a safety device! Need to fix right!


Bud
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pianotuna

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Posted: 03/20/22 08:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mr Wizard,

Keep at it. You will win this battle.

Does your arsenal of tools include an Oscillating Flush Cut device?


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

BFL13

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Posted: 03/20/22 09:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Pulling the furnace out might get you access, but is another PITA if you can't get at the duct connections easily

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