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enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Joined: 01/05/2005

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Is there enough room to get small grinder to cut off cover screws, or chisel?
Bud
USAF Retired
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MrWizard

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Got to find the screw heads before they can be removed in any matter, my grinder is too large and I don't have a cutting chisel, an oversight on my part, I would try a hacksaw but I won't risk damage to LP lines
Pulling the furnace won't help, that won't give access to the rear of the WH, even if removed, the furnace is in the basement, and WH enclosure is below the basement floor,
I didn't touch it today, so much wind too much dirt in my face, while under the RV, I ended up working on inside chores , like cleaning inside A/C units, making a special cleaning attachment because what I had was too large to fit in there and vacuum the accumulated layer of dust, cutting and installing New filter material,
And looking for the wire wheels in my tools and not finding them yet, I haven't used them in year,.so they have been shifted off to some obscure corner to make room for something I was using, like wrenchs, ratchets, sockets, wiring etc.
When I find them or replace them I will scrub the undercoat until I can get at those screws
* This post was
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I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !
....
Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s
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schlep1967

Harrisburg, PA

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Joined: 12/08/2005

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MrWizard, What part of the country are you currently sitting in? Maybe one of us is close by and can come give you a hand.
2021 Chevy Silverado LTZ 3500 Diesel
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MrWizard

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Nice thought
I'm in over crowded , Southern Calif,
I'll complete , it's not heavy, just annoyingly filled with time consuming bothersome tasks and complications.That should not be there, it could have been installed.with better access
* This post was
edited 03/23/22 05:19pm by MrWizard *
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MrWizard

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I have a vibrating multi tool, maybe I can sand or scrap the undercoat to clear the screw heads, less chance of damage or injury if it will fit in the clearance between LP lines and.wh
* This post was
edited 03/27/22 02:24pm by MrWizard *
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JBarca

Radnor, Ohio, USA

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Joined: 12/16/2004

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Hi Mr. Wizard,
I can't help you with getting to it, but I maybe can help on the problem reading what has been posted.
If your water heater on the top hot discharge port has a check valve that look like this,
See the brass two male threaded object pic on the left next to the gray plastic fitting. That is the check valve out in the open.
![[image]](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48004692352_1be027aaba_o.jpg)
This is the discharge end that will screw to into your discharge piping. There is a white plastic stemmed plunger with an O ring on it you should see it if is still attached.
![[image]](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48004616811_d2d322d20a_o.jpg)
The side that screws into the tank has a small white plastic keeper on the stem of the plastic plunger that looks like this
![[image]](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48004656103_5ce66db3a0_o.jpg)
That type of valve has failed in a few ways that I have seen.
The O-ring/plunger is stuck closed and the water pressure cannot push it open.
The more common way I have seen, the little stem keeper pops off, falls inside the tank and the plunger and spring goes flying out into the discharge piping and runs into a 90 degree elbow that "almost" stops all flow through the elbow.
Your setup looks like it has to have a hard 90 degree fitting at the hot water discharge which could be holding the plunger that flew out.
I'm not a motor home guy, but I have worked on many travel trailers and some 5th wheels that have had this issue.
Hope this helps
John
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
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RLS7201

Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO

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Ya gota love those old Fleetwood products. Mr. Wizard's 1997 Bounder is having a first time failure. My 1995 Bounder is just starting to show a water heater check valve issue. What ya bet, there's no plastic in our check valves. No question why we keep flogging them down the road.
Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53
460/528 stroker
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MrWizard

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Good news and bad news
The good, the installation is very sturdy,
The Bad news worst design I have ever seen ,from point of view of performing service on the water heater,
The three screws at the bofrom of the plate covering the access opening ?
Are the only screws to be found, No screws along the top, the plate seems to thru the basement floor and straight up behind the furnace, trying to scrap the undercoat no screws found, using the multi=tool to cut a nonexistent screw ended with the blade cutting into the basement floor above the w.h.
Where the furnace is
mounted ,
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/xiKykUXl.jpg)
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MrWizard

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Jbarca,
Thanks for the pictures, I can pry the cover enough to peek inside and can see the line connected to the output at the top of the WH, the line has a plastic fiting with finger wings,.
But I can't get my hands in there yet, and was Not able to.get a picture , going to make another attempt shortly
Richard I hope your water heater is easier to get at.
Because
If you have a 36S like this one, your in for a heap of frustration,
I'm turning off the propane, letting the fridge burn it off, then use the angle grinder to cut the cover plate,
I don't have air tools & chisel, and the saw blade on the multi tool is not up to the cutting job on this steel plate
This should have been a simple job with minimum hassle,
It has been everything but that, with one obstruction after the other
* This post was
edited 03/27/22 02:12pm by MrWizard *
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MrWizard

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What is the reason for the check valve in the output ?
Stop cold water being syphon into the tank when the water in the pipes cools after the faucet/shower has been turned off ?
I don't have a replacement, and unless its a safety reason, I'm not going to replace it, as long as it operates without it
I want max flow hot water !!
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