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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Help with fuel transfer valve

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speediq99

Arizona

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Joined: 01/17/2004

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Posted: 03/24/22 02:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you Dan.

That is the route we are taking to start.
If I find myself annoyed by having to pull over to open the manual valve, I may install the solenoid.

MC

dapperdan wrote:

MC, I’m not sure what’s changed since my ‘15 RAM but my truck didn’t come with a fuel cap either, just a “flipper” style closure. When I first installed the RDS in my ‘06 RAM I DID have a fuel cap. My installation into the ‘15 was similar to the ‘06. Under the truck up in the fender I cut the metal filler tube, spliced in the “T” with the rubber boots included in the RDS kit. Supposedly there’s a check valve setup to prevent over flow. I’ve never had an issue with fuel spills!

I run the truck tank below half of more then flip the valve on the RDS tank and let the fuel from the RDS gravity flow into the truck tank. It looks “weird” to be running down the road and have the fuel gauge start climbing! LOL The install is fairly easy and having the extra fuel capacity is great!!

Dan


Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 03/24/22 03:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok, you’re set on installing an electronic valve. That is evident.
If you’re just looking for justification that will work, yes it will work.
This is being made far more complicated than it actually is.


2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29

TimnJo

Eastern Ontario, Canada

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Posted: 03/24/22 04:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have an in-bed auxiliary tank. Initially I bought the kit with the hose, manual valve and tee with a 'rollover valve'. This setup worked on my 2010 Chevy for the most part but occasionally would overfill the main tank, I never figured out why and lost fuel more than once, eventually causing me to take out the roll-over valve and just use the manual valve for control. That worked fine except that we'd pull over for lunch and to open the valve and if I didn't open the valve first we'd get back on the road, realise the mistake, and have to stop again, sigh.
I got a new truck and when I moved the tank to it I installed a 100% duty 12V solenoid valve with the power switch in the cab. The switch is illuminated when on and is in line of sight and is also hooked up to accessory power so if I forget to turn it off at destination it won't drain the aux tank onto the ground.
My previous truck would sometimes detect that the fuel level wasn't dropping and the tank level indicator would drop to zero, resetting on cycling the ignition key to off. This hasn't happened with the new truck.
HTH, Tim


2010 Carriage Cameo 36FWS
2018 Silverado 3500HD D/A Double Cab Dually LT

hornet28

Muskegon Mi.

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Posted: 03/25/22 11:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Use an electric fuel pump and forget the other things they are not needed





pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 03/26/22 10:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My 1987 had a transfer valve. It would stick. I pumped hundreds of liters of fuel onto the ground. I finally had it disabled.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

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