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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Butt splice connector to join 10 gauge to 12 gauge wire?

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TechWriter

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Posted: 03/29/22 05:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cummins12V98 wrote:


YES they meet "CODE" but IMHO they are just as bad as stab and jab receptacles.


Mike134 wrote:

X2!! on the WAGOs GARBAGE!!


Since the two of you are passing yourself off as experts, why do you not like WAGOs? Experience? Personal preference?


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Posted: 03/29/22 05:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

profdant139 wrote:

Someone said, "I never knew connecting two wires together was so complicated." That's the problem with being a non-expert (which is what I am for sure). I often don't know what I don't know until I ask. I have learned from past misteaks -- don't assume that something that looks simple is simple.

Wait till you ask about 6v vs 12v batteries. Oy vey!

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Posted: 03/29/22 05:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

profdant139 wrote:

Someone said, "I never knew connecting two wires together was so complicated." That's the problem with being a non-expert (which is what I am for sure). I often don't know what I don't know until I ask. I have learned from past misteaks -- don't assume that something that looks simple is simple.

True story -- we were taking my kids skiing for the first time and told them they would take lessons to start. My 8 year old said, "Lessons? I don't need lessons. I already know how to ski. You just put your poles between your legs and go!"

To put it another way, confidence is that wonderful feeling you have before you really understand what's happening.

So that is why I asked about how to connect two wires on my RV. My gut said "wire nuts" and my head said "maybe not -- better check with the good folks on the forum."


Your “GUT” was correct IMHO.


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Posted: 03/29/22 05:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

TechWriter wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:


YES they meet "CODE" but IMHO they are just as bad as stab and jab receptacles.


Mike134 wrote:

X2!! on the WAGOs GARBAGE!!


Since the two of you are passing yourself off as experts, why do you not like WAGOs? Experience? Personal preference?


I already said why. Thin pc of metal making the connection. Proper tightening of a wire nut takes more time but much better connection.

Commercial Construction Superintendent 35 years here. The quality minded Electricians would not use them. The guys who just wanted to get it done used the WAGOS because they are easy.

Like I said they meet code. But the fact is CODE is a minimum. I do not like minimum.

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Posted: 03/29/22 06:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

TechWriter wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:


YES they meet "CODE" but IMHO they are just as bad as stab and jab receptacles.


Mike134 wrote:

X2!! on the WAGOs GARBAGE!!


Since the two of you are passing yourself off as experts, why do you not like WAGOs? Experience? Personal preference?


You'll have to determine if 38 years as a licensed electrician makes me an expert.

Wago's rely on spring pressure to hold a strip of metal against the wire just like those CHEAP back stabbed receptacles use. Tiny point of contact unlike wires that are twisted together then covered with a wirenut. I will say WAGOs are handy when doing speaker wires (not life safety speakers such as a fire alarm system) or connecting multiple control wires that do not carry more than 0.25 amp current.

* This post was edited 03/29/22 06:36pm by Mike134 *


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Dusty R

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Posted: 03/29/22 08:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not all wire nuts are alike, I've seen some that you needed to be very watchful of them when installing them. The best are Schlock by 3M.

dieseltruckdriver

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Posted: 03/29/22 08:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

profdant139 wrote:

I need to join 10 gauge to 12 gauge -- and believe it or not, I have never used butt splice connectors. I've done my Internet research but have not been able to answer these two questions with any certainty:

First, when the package says "10/12 connectors," are they only for joining 10 to 12? Or are they saying that both ends of the connector will accept either 10 or 12?

Second, there is heat shrink, crimp, solder, etc. Which type will provide the most durable result, and which one is the easiest to use?

I am not a good solder-er, so I am hoping to avoid that method. As you can tell, I am not confident when it comes to electrical work.

Thanks in advance for your collective wisdom!


Prof, I read through all of the pages before I posted, just to make sure that Mex didn't post. He has the most experience of anyone I have seen on these boards on these type of topics and I would trust his over my experience.

GDE's post on the first page with the link to the crimpers is good information for low voltage stranded wire. I actually carry that same crimper in my 5er. Use plain butt connectors and put heat shrink over them. Just put the heat shrink on the wire before crimping. [emoticon]

I am a fan of soldering wires, but they make the wire brittle. That's not something you want when you are going down the road. Soldering as well as wire nuts are just fine on something that never moves or vibrates. That being said, I currently have wire nuts on my 30 amp connection, but that is going to change this spring when I will be installing a surge protector.


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Posted: 03/29/22 10:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dieseltruckdriver wrote:

profdant139 wrote:

I need to join 10 gauge to 12 gauge -- and believe it or not, I have never used butt splice connectors. I've done my Internet research but have not been able to answer these two questions with any certainty:

First, when the package says "10/12 connectors," are they only for joining 10 to 12? Or are they saying that both ends of the connector will accept either 10 or 12?

Second, there is heat shrink, crimp, solder, etc. Which type will provide the most durable result, and which one is the easiest to use?

I am not a good solder-er, so I am hoping to avoid that method. As you can tell, I am not confident when it comes to electrical work.

Thanks in advance for your collective wisdom!


Prof, I read through all of the pages before I posted, just to make sure that Mex didn't post. He has the most experience of anyone I have seen on these boards on these type of topics and I would trust his over my experience.

GDE's post on the first page with the link to the crimpers is good information for low voltage stranded wire. I actually carry that same crimper in my 5er. Use plain butt connectors and put heat shrink over them. Just put the heat shrink on the wire before crimping. [emoticon]

I am a fan of soldering wires, but they make the wire brittle. That's not something you want when you are going down the road. Soldering as well as wire nuts are just fine on something that never moves or vibrates. That being said, I currently have wire nuts on my 30 amp connection, but that is going to change this spring when I will be installing a surge protector.


soldering doesn't make wire brittle. However what often can and doe happen is to much solder is used, it wicks up the strands and insulation and makes a stress point where the soldered section is rigid and the rest is flexible. So, under vibration that section between ridgid and flex vibrates and fails. Properly soldered the solder is ONLY at the crimp NONE up the insulation, problem solved. However that is easier said than done.


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Posted: 03/30/22 09:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have no problem using WAGO connectors for low voltage wiring, particularly if it is wiring that needs to be disconnected/reconnected a couple of times, but be sure you are using actual WAGO connectors. There are imitation versions that are junk. While they are rated for 120V use, I don't use them for AC wiring.


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ppine

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Posted: 03/30/22 09:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Or twist the wires together with lineman's and use a red wire nut.

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