2oldman

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jaycocreek wrote: I would just turn off float if it was possible...But not being possible, My controller allows, if I remember correctly, a minimum setting of one minute. That shouldn't hurt anything. What are you doing with absorb?
Tried youtube for these unknown batteries?
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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Does the battery ever get full while running that load, even during the day? Float is for after the batt gets full, so it ought to depend how full it gets and how early before dark.
The solar would have to be supplying all the load's amps to allow the LFP to also get some amps so it can get to full. You then have a time it stays at 14.6 or whatever--is that too long before dark so you need to drop to float before the voltage drops anyway in the dark?
Brain not working--but if the batt is full and the solar is doing it all, is the loaded voltage 14.6 or is it lower from the load? Is the loaded voltage already low enough to count as low enough for no harm done? As said brain not working--probably stupid thought ![smile [emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif)
I see the PWM vs MPPT in the OP is not about that as such, but is about what settings the controller has, whatever type it is.
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jaycocreek

Idaho

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2oldman wrote: jaycocreek wrote: I would just turn off float if it was possible...But not being possible, My controller allows, if I remember correctly, a minimum setting of one minute. That shouldn't hurt anything. Tried youtube for these unknown batteries?
The unknown battery is a Enjoybot 100ah which I should have stated..Will P says there a clone of the Amperetime and Zooms but there not having different brand cells(Gotion)...There's not many video's on them other than tear downs but nothing about settings..
I just assume the Victron 75/15 will not allow the float to be off from what I have read..I guess I will find out tomorrow.
Since I decided to use a LFP as a house battery in my TC,it was time to upgrade the controller and ad another rigid panel to the roof for 200 watts fixed and 200 portable for my other LFP batteries.
One never knows unless he asks the question.
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Itinerant1

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OP, How often are you charging full, what voltage?
12v 500ah (5,120Wh usable), 20 cells_ 4s5p (GBS LFMP battery system). 8 CTI 160 watt panels (1,280 watts)2s4p,Panels mounted flat. Magnum PT100 SCC, Magnum 3012 hybrid inverter, ME-ARC 50. Installed 4/2016 been on 24/7/365, daily 35-45% DOD 2,000+ cycles.
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jaycocreek

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Itinerant1 wrote: OP, How often are you charging full, what voltage?
I rarely let the Renogy controllers charge to full(Don't trust them lol) but I use my LFP 14.4 or my Noco charger to charge to full maybe once a month..The expert power charger charges at just below 20 amps via the shunt..The Noco does 10 amps..
I ordered the Victron controller because I don't trust the $20 controllers unless I am watching and monitoring them all the time,which I have been..
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jaycocreek

Idaho

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BFL13
I do not let the cheap PWM controllers charge above 13.9 volts,if it is a good day of sunshine I have just disconnected the panel via a anderson connection but usually,I just lower the boost to 13.5 or so..
The main reason for my controller upgrade so I don't have to monitor it all the time..That's just me and my opinion on $15-$25 dollar controllers..Im sure they work just fine charging to 14.4 but I personally don't trust them to do that,unattended.![biggrin [emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif)
I have had LFP for a year now and learned a lot but there is a lot I am not sure of yet..
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2oldman

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jaycocreek wrote: I just assume the Victron 75/15 will not allow the float to be off from what I have read..I guess I will find out tomorrow. Questions on Amazon indicate this controller has Li settings. I would presume, without actually reading the owner's manual, this includes no Absorb phase.
* This post was
edited 05/04/22 12:15pm by 2oldman *
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RLS7201

Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO

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Interesting, your figures give 45% use capacity of LifePo4 batteries. One of the reasons given by many to upgrade is being able to use at least 80% of capacity.
That 45% gives a + to lead acid acid batteries that can be used at -40°. Flack jacket on.
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2oldman

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RLS7201 wrote: One of the reasons given by many to upgrade is being able to use at least 80% of capacity. That 45% gives a + to lead acid acid batteries that can be used at -40°. With me that 80% figure is moot as my solar is always on the job. It would be a rare situation when I'd ever have to go down to 20% capacity. I purchased mine because of the steady voltage they provide and how long they last.. among other reasons. I carry 100 gallons of fuel but I've never used 80 gallons before filling up.
I'm not sure what kind of performance you'd get from a LA battery at -40F.
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Itinerant1

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jaycocreek wrote: BFL13
I do not let the cheap PWM controllers charge above 13.9 volts,if it is a good day of sunshine I have just disconnected the panel via a anderson connection but usually,I just lower the boost to 13.5 or so..
The main reason for my controller upgrade so I don't have to monitor it all the time..That's just me and my opinion on $15-$25 dollar controllers..Im sure they work just fine charging to 14.4 but I personally don't trust them to do that,unattended.
I have had LFP for a year now and learned a lot but there is a lot I am not sure of yet..
When the end user becomes the manual controller of the charging system instead of just putting in a proper set and forget system sooner or later there will be a time you'll get side tracked with something else and with lfp it doesn't take much time.
Many of folks have gone that route and thought it won't happen till it did.
I beat many future lfp batteries being put into service will die from the end user hen pecking and not "longevity".
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