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Y-Guy

Tri-Cities, WA

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Joined: 03/04/2002

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Posted: 08/03/22 10:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When extended the slides on our previous trailers we were told to leave it plugged into the truck with the ending running, once they were out then disconnect.


2007 Winnebago Sightseer 35J
2011 Jeep Wrangler

wa8yxm

Davison Michigan (East of Flint)

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Joined: 07/04/2006

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Posted: 08/03/22 03:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Low battery voltage
Poor connection in battery circuit (The first suspects are the battery terminals and the next are the ground, then hot connections at the other end of the cables finally every connection between the battery and the power distribution panel)

Next Normal FULL CHARGE battery voltage is 12.6 (comment follows)
Chargeris 13.6 to 14.6 depending on state of charge.

I have a 2-way radio that WILL NOT OPERATE properly on voltages less than 12.7 or so it seems (not measuring when on car battery power) works great on 14.2 Volt LiFePo4 pack I have for it.. in fact last Saturday I did some testing and the radio hit full power (100 watts out) into the test device and when I switched to the antenna Talked from Flint, MI to Phoenix AZ like he was next door.

Your slide. like my radio, is voltage sensitive.. As voltage goes down the current goes up. At some point (Pre-set point) the controller thinks "All Done motor stalled" becuse when the motor stalls the current goes up. That is the "limit Switch" on many slides.


Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times


2112

Texas

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Posted: 08/03/22 04:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My kitchen slide was doing the exact same thing when new. Sometimes it would open, sometimes it would just make the ratcheting sound as if it was fully extended.

The service tech adjusted this slightly towards the frame and that corrected the problem. You may find this under your slide when extended. He said it was driving too far in and jamming the gears, or something like that.

[image]

Serious Warning: This bell stop assembly adjusts how much the slide closes. If yours has this you can try slightly adjusting it towards the frame a quarter turn at a time. Count your turns. Put a mark on it before you start turning. If you adjust it too far towards the frame the slide Will Leak. IIRC, he turned mine 3/4 turn to get it to work properly and still seal properly.

Hopefully someone here more knowledgeable will chime in on this.

I hope this helps


2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens, PullRite SuperGlide 2700 15K
2013 KZ Durango 2857


joebedford

Sheltering at home

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Posted: 08/04/22 09:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On our previous RV it became habit to turn the LR manual crank one turn before trying to power it out. Never did fix it before trading it.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 08/04/22 10:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The bell is indeed a stop when retracting. Once it hits the frame, the clutch of the motor will then rachet. A COMMON problem with this type Slide motor system is, the motor/slide ram gear fails and then fails to either run or rachet. This requires a replacement of the telescoping ram and the motor. They usually come as a kit. Just replacing the motor does not always fix this problem. A work around when it fails is simple. There is a manual override either ON the motor or the OEM has used a extension on the motor to beside the area of the Bell. Just manually moving the motor to extend slightly(less than an inch) will now allow the system to function. But, it will fail again in the future. Doug

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