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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Joined: 05/06/2013
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mkirsch wrote:Grit dog wrote:You got my point. OP got the runs and ran away from the thread...
Edit, sorry OP, I confused you with the guy above who posted his weights from a different setup for whatever reason.
I usually do. Don't always agree with it.
For those that question the contributor's reason for posting his weight, it is to demonstrate that these campers can come out significantly heavier than factory advertised weight.
Ultimately the OP is fine. What he is doing is something commonly done. Might need some suspension helpers to make it not look so saggy, but otherwise, load up and hit the road.
Looks like I actually missed the point, if toddb was posting to show that he's 1000lbs over what the tag on the camper says....which I was as unclear as he.
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BFL13
Victoria, BC
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Joined: 02/15/2006
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wjlapier wrote:We purchased a Host Everest recently. We figured we would need a newer duality so we traded in our 2015 GMC short bed 3500 for a 2019 Chevy dually. Here are some numbers I have and am hoping for clarification for my piece of mind haha…
GVWR—13000
Curb Weight full tank—8400 ( Just weighed today after fill up )
GM Truck Camper Rating ( sticker in glovebox )—3900
Host Everest As Equipped—4350 ( Host Sticker )
Am I missing anything?
I assume we gain back some GVWR with no passengers in rear seat.
We won’t travel with water in the camper until we are close to our camping destination.
Question is, what is our true payload weight less mine and my wife’s weight. And her duffle bag lol! For now we are carefully considering our usual camping gear while we load up.
Thanks a lot.
I think it depends on where you will be driving for how much overweight you can be "safely". Eg, braking going down a long steep mountain road at highway speed is different from in town on a flat road. I don't know how they "rate" brakes. One clue is the 2003 2500HD says you can pull a 2000 lb trailer without its own brakes, but over that 2000 the trailer needs its own brakes.
As to the OP questions not answered unless I missed it,
OP has to check for 2019 rules (see driver's manual), but 2003 Chev method was to have the cab weight allowance = 150 lbs per seat, so a five- seater was 750 lbs.
The weight allowance for the box was called "Cargo Weight Rating" as given in the sticker in the glove box. You add the 750 for the cab to the CWR and that is your "payload". Should show that on the door sticker
Picky question is whether it is ok to steal some cab weight allowance if you go over the CWR and call it good if still under GVWR. Most don't care about that. Perhaps GM have separate cab and box allowances because of frame flexing (as came out in the recent Twisted Truck thread).
Your "curb weight" is defined as with full fuel and OEM truck, so fuel does not come out of payload. Anything added to the truck comes from the payload allowance like belly bars. But you likely don't have the heavy tail gate on with a camper. Might be a wash.
So weigh the whole thing with the camper on and get your front and rear weights to see where you are at. The 2003 axle ratings are based on the tire ratings, but if you get tires that can carry more you have to look at the spindle and other ratings too. Those stronger tires weigh more and their wheels could be heavier if you are keeping track.
Once you know exactly where you stand wrt the ratings, you can decide how to play it. Braking going down a mountain is what would worry me the most.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
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2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.
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wjlapier
Washington
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Our planned big trip is next month. St Mary Montana area for near two weeks. Several mountain passes but should be fine since our trip from the dealership took us over the Cascades ( I-90 ) with that half tank of water we didn’t know was there.
Our concern comes from our first experience towing a 30ft TT with a Suburban for three years. Too scary so we bought a GMC Denali 3500 SRW LB. Then we felt safe and never considered weight with the next three TT’s. Now like most folks we drag along too much stuff for “just in case” , so for now we are re-prioritizing our stuff. We just want to be safe.
Next purchase will be new tires soon. We have used BF Goodrich K02’s for close to 7 years but that was towing a TT. I read the ride is mushy with a camper on the truck, but that was one persons experience. I read the Cooper AT3’s are supposed to be great tires. I’d like to go with the K02’s because they are so good in the snow.
Anyway, I took the truck to a scale again and weighed the rear. 3520 with a full tank of gas. Soon I’ll load the camper on the truck and get some more scale numbers.
With some good tires and smart loading I feel confident about or trip to Montana. And other trips around this area.
Thanks for the feedback thus far.
2019 Chevrolet 3500HD LTZ DRW
2023 Host Everest
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mbloof
Beaverton, OR
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^^^ load er up and go have fun and make some memories!
Keep in mind that you should never overload your tires. A quick stop at the scales can give you ether some peace of mind or flag you to look for better tires.
Hauling truck campers place a 'top heavy' weight in the bed. Some/many users add suspension upgrades/modifications to help with ether or both of 'squat' and 'sway'.
Squat is from the weight of the camper+gear squishing your suspension. While most trucks rear end rides 'high' empty how much squat is to much depends on the user. Personally when oncoming traffic is flashing their lights at me while driving at night I consider that 'to much' and adjust the suspension accordingly.
Sway is the truck/camper moving side to side. It could be in turns, strong breeze or passing trucks. How much is to much depends on the user. Swaybars (or heavier ones) and/or suspension upgrades/updates help with that.
Have fun!
- Mark0.
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JIMNLIN
Oklahoma
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Joined: 09/14/2003
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Quote:I think it depends on where you will be driving for how much overweight you can be "safely". Eg, braking going down a long steep mountain road at highway speed is different from in town on a flat road. I don't know how they "rate" brakes.
Bad braking is a thing of past years with the later gen model LDT size trucks.
Brake on a LDT are the function of the axle ratings ...at a minimum.
A 3500 drw GM may have a 9375 rawr and a 6000 fawr for 15375 lbs of braking performance. I haven't seen the OP cert placard gawrs and may look like these numbers.
At some point GM uprated the 3500 drw rawr to 10500 lbs = which would give this model drw a 16500 lbs of braking performance.....at a minimum.
Hooked up with a 24000 gvwr GN flatdeck or a stock trailer with three 8000 lb axles = 40500 lb of combined braking performance. This is how commercial haulers/ car haulers/cattle haulers can legally/safely operate at these gross combined weights and still carry up to max axle loads.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers
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BFL13
Victoria, BC
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Just curious. What do you guys do for braking technique going down a mountain? Is the ABS "rated" for the truck specs only or can it handle (how much?) over-weight?
Usually they say just leave the brake on and let the ABS handle it for normal stops. But stomp and release is supposed to help keep the brakes from over-heating down a steep hill.
I never got a clear story on that so even with ABS, I do stomp and release after gearing down and the truck speeds up again anyway. Also stomp before the next sharp turn not during the next turn of course.
What is the correct technique?
OP probably got his brakes done on his new to him truck already. The rear diff takes a beating with a 5er, so maybe with a camper too. I got the shavings in the gear oil they spotted, and needed a "rear diff bearing kit". Things to check before the big trip while at the shop with no camper on when getting the new tires? OP probably knows all that, but might as well mention it.
Also OP now has a dually--have fun with a flat inner tire change! If you can even get at your spare with the camper on. ![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/frown.gif "frown")
* This post was
edited 06/10/22 02:43pm by BFL13 *
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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wjlapier wrote:Our planned big trip is next month. St Mary Montana area for near two weeks. Several mountain passes but should be fine since our trip from the dealership took us over the Cascades ( I-90 ) with that half tank of water we didn’t know was there.
Our concern comes from our first experience towing a 30ft TT with a Suburban for three years. Too scary so we bought a GMC Denali 3500 SRW LB. Then we felt safe and never considered weight with the next three TT’s. Now like most folks we drag along too much stuff for “just in case” , so for now we are re-prioritizing our stuff. We just want to be safe.
Next purchase will be new tires soon. We have used BF Goodrich K02’s for close to 7 years but that was towing a TT. I read the ride is mushy with a camper on the truck, but that was one persons experience. I read the Cooper AT3’s are supposed to be great tires. I’d like to go with the K02’s because they are so good in the snow.
Anyway, I took the truck to a scale again and weighed the rear. 3520 with a full tank of gas. Soon I’ll load the camper on the truck and get some more scale numbers.
With some good tires and smart loading I feel confident about or trip to Montana. And other trips around this area.
Thanks for the feedback thus far.
Sounds like youre set! She's a big camper but you got a big truck.
Your tires, unless wore out or in need of replacement for some other reason, are fine even if they're "cheap" OE tires. You'll have around 8500lbs on the rear axle. 9000 if you bring the proverbial or literal boxes of rocks. Sum of of the duals is right around 12klbs rated capacity. But if you get new tires and want BFG ATs, you have nothing to worry about. They are not any "softer" than any other tire.
Yes, you're over the gvw rating, but rest assured, you have the right truck for the job and in no way inherently unsafe!
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jimh406
Western MT
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Brakes vary a lot. My F450 with some of the largest brakes stops about the same with/without TC. My F350 didn't. The F450 is a 2010 and the F350 was a 2006, so it could be more than just model, but the F450 discs are huge in comparison.
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BFL13
Victoria, BC
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Joined: 02/15/2006
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JIMNLIN wrote:Quote:I think it depends on where you will be driving for how much overweight you can be "safely". Eg, braking going down a long steep mountain road at highway speed is different from in town on a flat road. I don't know how they "rate" brakes.
Bad braking is a thing of past years with the later gen model LDT size trucks.
Brake on a LDT are the function of the axle ratings ...at a minimum.
A 3500 drw GM may have a 9375 rawr and a 6000 fawr for 15375 lbs of braking performance. I haven't seen the OP cert placard gawrs and may look like these numbers.
At some point GM uprated the 3500 drw rawr to 10500 lbs = which would give this model drw a 16500 lbs of braking performance.....at a minimum.
Hooked up with a 24000 gvwr GN flatdeck or a stock trailer with three 8000 lb axles = 40500 lb of combined braking performance. This is how commercial haulers/ car haulers/cattle haulers can legally/safely operate at these gross combined weights and still carry up to max axle loads.
Not clear. If the duallies have the brakes on only one wheel (AFAIK), then how can the braking stopping distance be different from a single rear wheel 1-ton? Rubber on the road more but only one braking.
A single 1-ton has less RGAWR than a dually, but if it has the same stopping distance, how can that be related to the "axle" weight rate ratings?
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mbloof
Beaverton, OR
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BFL13 wrote:
A single 1-ton has less RGAWR than a dually, but if it has the same stopping distance, how can that be related to the "axle" weight rate ratings?
It has been my observation that the door jam posted RAWR is usually a derated value of the least (weakest link) of: axle (including breaks), OEM tires and rims.
Unlike a SRW on a DRW the tires+rims are often not the weakest link.
- Mark0.
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