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mando_man
Aloha, OR
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Joined: 03/01/2008
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I'm having a problem with my Atwood water heater. It attempts to ignite, but then fails. I've replaced the TSTAT, ECO, thermo fuse (circled in green). You can see and hear the spark when it's attempting to ignite, but never catches (circled in blue). What I do see sometimes is ignites, but I see a small flame for a second or two where it's circled in red which does not seem right. Any thoughts?
Picture of Water Heater
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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Joined: 01/05/2005
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Start by checking the ground on the gas valve. It is hidden behind the mounting bracket.
Check continuity on the TWO gas valve coils. They should read the same resistance.
I don't care much for the wires at the circuit board being so tightly twisted.
Forgot ask does your other appliances work OK?
* This post was
edited 06/23/22 05:31pm by enblethen *
Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow
2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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1. Small flame indicates a clogged orifice. Remove the orifice and clean with spray carb cleaner and compressed air.
2. Also indicates LOW or marginal LP gas pressure. Light the Stove/Range burners all 3 or 4. They should have a full blue flame
3. When it tries to ignite, tap on the gas valve with a hammer. IF the flame then comes ON, your gas valve is bad.
4. If the W/H is in a slide room, then the rubber gas line may be pinched. Doug
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JimK-NY
NY
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The original post was confusing. Was the ignitor replaced? If not, that should be first on the list.
Next make sure all the connectors are clean and seated especially the connector array, upper right.
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mando_man
Aloha, OR
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Igniter was not replaced, it’s sparking. Connections look good, all removed, cleaned and securely attached. All gas appliances work fine (fridge, heater, stove, oven). Continuity looks good. Have not checked orifice or banged on gas valve. Will try that next. That’s for everyone’s suggestions.
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StirCrazy
Kamloops, BC, Canada
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Joined: 07/16/2003
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I would check that the ignightor is still properly gapped, althought it sounds like it is sparking, and before your go nuts try spraying compressed aire throught the compustion path and make sure there is nothing causing interferance with the air flow. I had a simular problem and it ended up being bugs.
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100
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JimK-NY
NY
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Again, replacing the ignitor should have been the first step. Maybe something else has failed but ignitor failure is pretty common.
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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JimK-NY wrote:Again, replacing the ignitor should have been the first step. Maybe something else has failed but ignitor failure is pretty common.
Remember, he stated that AT the exit from the orifice he had a small flame. THAT would NOT indicate an Electrode problem. FYI, the main cause of electrode failure is the white porcelain has microscopic cracks and "bleeds" the spark voltage. Resulting in no or diminished spark. What the OP has found out, is, you cannot just start replacing parts. It gets expensive. Doug
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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To the OP, IF that water heater is more than 10 years old, I would REPLACE the gas valve. Atwood gas valves usually fail to "seal" after many years of service. What they do is, if you have the W/H OFF, spray soapy water all over the orifice and wait got 5 minutes, keep the orifice wet with soapy water. Odds are you will get bubbles indicating a leak. When I do a Manometer test on older RV's and it fails, this is the FIRST place I look. Most times it is leaking. This is NOT the cause of your problem, but I would do the test and replace if it fails. Doug
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BluegrassBill
Woodland, Wa. USA
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The air/gas tube is plugged-up (the part that is circled). Remove and clean, good to go. Spiders and stink bugs love to nest in the tube.
Bill & Kathy Francis
95 Itasca Sunrise 29RQ,P32 454 Chevy, Banks,ECM chip.Safe-T-Plus, Bilsteins, Super Steer Bell Crank, Stewart Stage 1 Waterpump, Severe Duty Fan Clutch, OilGuard Bypass Filter, Coolant Filter. Rear Tracbar. 1-5/8" Front Swaybar.
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