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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > Low Battery Voltage

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theoldwizard1

SE MI

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Posted: 06/29/22 05:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

theoldwizard1 wrote:

If you want to run the refrigerator on electric while driving, get a DC-DC batter charger.


As most fridges need 325 watts, a 40 amp dc to DC unit would work--but that requires a larger alternator.

Any truck with a trailer tow package will likely have an alternator capable of 200+A. Plenty to spare !

Flapper

Minnesota

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Posted: 06/29/22 05:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CCA is not a very valid test for our use of a battery. That is a rating for how big a burst of power a battery can put out in a very short time (like for turning over an engine). Slightly more meaningful, but not much, is how many times the battery can pass the test without recharging. I've seen many that can pass the test once, but have no lifespan at all for longer term lower draws. Other than putting a know load on it, and periodically monitoring the voltage over time, there isn't any quick way to test for it's ability to deliver rated amp hour capacity.
If you have the meter, and time, you may want to swap with a vehicle battery and see how that does over time. But periodically monitor, so you don't over discharge your test battery and ruin that too....


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enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 06/29/22 06:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mr. C, do you have an electric tongue jack? Some of the switches fail as they are in the weather. Check that to insure it is not using power when not in operation.
Another item to check is the breakaway switch for the same basic reason.


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time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 06/29/22 07:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would start with charging the battery 72+ hours with the converter. Once charged, disconnect the cables and wait another 48 hours with nothing connected. While disconnected and resting a couple days the battery should hold 12.6+ volts.

Post the results.


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Mr. C

SW Virginia, USA

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Posted: 06/30/22 02:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK. Regardless of all of this, I'll be getting a new battery. Went to Harbor Freight and got a cheap load tester and a CenTech 30a Circuit Tester #67724. Also cheap. It replaces the fuse and reads the amperage. I could get the battery to read bad if I kept the load on for 10sec. Interstate RV/Deep Cycle. 405CCA, 505MCA.

Fridge circuit .8-1.3
Propane detector circuit .2
The TV antenna is on one of the circuits and can't be turned off like in our last camper.

Converter voltage 13.6

Voltage at the truck plug 12.6

So, is the AGM battery worth the extra $100 compared to a flooded battery?

When parked at home, the camper is always plugged in. Good or bad? Or should I just use a battery tender?

Thanks for the input and help...


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MFL

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Posted: 06/30/22 03:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It is good to keep it plugged in at home. Some converters may have an excessive charge system, that will cook the water out. Even then, if you check water level regularly, it should be okay. You can disconnect the battery if you want.

I have a PD converter/charger, that goes to float charge of 13.2, when battery is fully charged. I have not needed to add any water, but do check on occasion, and mine is plugged in from early Spring, till late Fall.

Jerry





valhalla360

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Posted: 07/01/22 05:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mr. C wrote:

OK. Regardless of all of this, I'll be getting a new battery. Went to Harbor Freight and got a cheap load tester and a CenTech 30a Circuit Tester #67724. Also cheap. It replaces the fuse and reads the amperage. I could get the battery to read bad if I kept the load on for 10sec. Interstate RV/Deep Cycle. 405CCA, 505MCA.

Fridge circuit .8-1.3
Propane detector circuit .2
The TV antenna is on one of the circuits and can't be turned off like in our last camper.

Converter voltage 13.6

Voltage at the truck plug 12.6

So, is the AGM battery worth the extra $100 compared to a flooded battery?

When parked at home, the camper is always plugged in. Good or bad? Or should I just use a battery tender?

Thanks for the input and help...


The AGM offers nothing in your situation (one battery-rarely off grid). More importantly, until you are sure there isn't a systemic problem, no chance burning up a more expensive battery.


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Mr. C

SW Virginia, USA

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Posted: 07/01/22 06:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

valhalla360 wrote:

Mr. C wrote:

OK. Regardless of all of this, I'll be getting a new battery. Went to Harbor Freight and got a cheap load tester and a CenTech 30a Circuit Tester #67724. Also cheap. It replaces the fuse and reads the amperage. I could get the battery to read bad if I kept the load on for 10sec. Interstate RV/Deep Cycle. 405CCA, 505MCA.

Fridge circuit .8-1.3
Propane detector circuit .2
The TV antenna is on one of the circuits and can't be turned off like in our last camper.

Converter voltage 13.6

Voltage at the truck plug 12.6

So, is the AGM battery worth the extra $100 compared to a flooded battery?

When parked at home, the camper is always plugged in. Good or bad? Or should I just use a battery tender?

Thanks for the input and help...


The AGM offers nothing in your situation (one battery-rarely off grid). More importantly, until you are sure there isn't a systemic problem, no chance burning up a more expensive battery.


Can I assume that the amp readings on those 2 circuits are normal? All other circuits were 0...

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 07/01/22 08:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Were you able to get a reading on the antenna circuit? It should have a fuse somewhere. You should be able to shut it off. Make and model of antenna?

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 07/01/22 08:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mr. C wrote:



When parked at home, the camper is always plugged in. Good or bad? Or should I just use a battery tender?


Wasteful. Get a timer and power the RV for one hour a day. That will maintain the battery.

Many batteries die from over charging.

Keep looking for ways to eliminate the parasitic loads.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

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