time2roll
Southern California
Senior Member
Joined: 03/21/2005
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
Thumbs wrote:Yeah I think thats the problem. Camco connectors. They aren't to expensive but I think thats the problem. Who makes better ones? Ha no cleaning these up. These boys are shot. One of the connectors came out od the cord connector and stuck in the pigtail. The Progressive Industries replacement connectors appear to be superior to others I have seen.
https://www.progressiveindustries.net/our-products
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up
|
obie311
Aux Arcs
Full Member
Joined: 07/24/2012
View Profile
|
Thumbs wrote:Yeah I think thats the problem. Camco connectors. They aren't to expensive but I think thats the problem. Who makes better ones? Ha no cleaning these up. These boys are shot. One of the connectors came out od the cord connector and stuck in the pigtail.
If you have totaled up the amps you are drawing and are at, or under 24 amps when this happens, it could be the Camco Connectors themselves.
The heat had probably loosened the plastic that held the cord connector/terminal. We know travel trailer manufacturers often put low-spec items in their builds. This could be one of them.
Take the Camco plug to an industrial electric supply and see if they have a Woodhead, Hubbell or some heavy duty equivalent. Home Depot shows Leviton RV plugs but I'm not sure that's a good brand any more. Inexperienced or jackleg electricians often make a stranded wire connection in the wrong direction. Always make the loop that goes under the fastening screw in a clockwise direction.
|
dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
Senior Member
Joined: 06/11/2007
View Profile
 Offline
|
pianotuna wrote:Thumbs,
For 50 amps the continuous rating is only 40 (on each leg)
For 30 amps the continous rating is 24 amps.
110 is safe--but low, assuming that is voltage under load. Consider getting an autoformer to correct the voltage.
Mine is set to boost voltage to 124. It cuts in at about 115 volts. No more burned plugs.
I have seen you quote this before. I have 43 years as a RV tech, the FIRST almost 24 years when everything was 30 amp and NO 50 amp RV's. I don't know where you get your mis info. RV electrical systems have their OWN national electrical rating and at no time in my 43 years have I ever hear of the 24 amps for 30 and the 40 amps for 50 amp service. Please post the reference for what you state. RV 30 amp is designed up to 30 amps(3600 watts) of service. 50 amp is for 100 amps(12000 watts). NO DERATING at all. Doug
|
pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
Senior Member
Joined: 12/18/2004
View Profile
Offline
|
It is true that because RV's are plug in devices that the above figures which are from the electrical code are not enforced.
However, since I started following these suggestions, I've not had a single problem with melted cord ends.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
|
theoldwizard1
SE MI
Senior Member
Joined: 09/07/2010
View Profile
Offline
|
Personally, I would use plugs/receptacles fron a well know industry manufacturer like Levton or Hubbel. Also, if you are having problems with the female end, you can always make your own "pigtail" using an industry standard function box with a "flush mount" in-wall receptacle.
Also, placing stranded "cordage" wires to the screws is not the most robust solution because the strands are finer than than what is used in industry standard THNN/THWN. In the past, I have "thinned" these finer wires with solder on the bent a hook on the end.
The ultimate "pigtail" would use flexible waterproof conduit ("sealtite") with THEN wire to weather resistant junction boxes.
Silicon dielectric grease on the pins will reduce/eliminate arcing.
|
|
|
ford truck guy
Pennsylvania
Senior Member
Joined: 03/22/2008
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
I had that happen to me once.. I had a strand or 2 that came loose and acrhed onto another screw... just enough to melt the end and shut me down...
Like stated, the Progressive Industries ends seam to be pretty good.
Me-Her-the kids
2020 Ford F350 SD 6.7
2020 Redwood 3991RD Garnet
|
larry cad
ohio
Senior Member
Joined: 05/23/2004
View Profile
Offline
|
pianotuna wrote:It is true that because RV's are plug in devices that the above figures which are from the electrical code are not enforced.
Doug asked you for "a reference". "from the electrical code", it is a vague comment that purports to be a reference. Here in USA we use the NEC to spec wire sizes, etc. In Canada, you use CEC to do the same. No where in the NEC does it say anything like what you stated about requiring reduction of amps to preserve a plug, etc. I would like to see the section of the CEC where they do. Please post that specific section of CEC so we can all gain knowledge.
Today is my personal best for most consecutive days alive.
Our Travel Blog
|
LMHS
NM
Full Member
Joined: 06/27/2022
View Profile
|
obie311 wrote:Home Depot shows Leviton RV plugs but I'm not sure that's a good brand any more.
Avoid the HD Leviton TT-30P if possible. They have a tendency to not fit into the outlet without forcing, which means that they are very difficult to remove for the outlet. I only use them for emergency use, until I can replace with one I order from Amazon. I recently had a major meltdown. Seems the park outlet that I had been on for a while suddenly developed a short in it (50 amp on a 30-2-50 adapter). Seems odd that it had been running like that for a couple of years until the new park owners came in and started messing with things (like all the electrical posts). I can't prove they messed with my electric but I find it odd that there hadn't been any problems but they took a pic on their phone of my plug where it showed a small burn mark in the plug housing and didn't bother to tell me. Of course it was all my fault until the electrician said it was a short inside the power post. Now I check to see if the plug is warm a couple times every week.
|
2112
Texas
Senior Member
Joined: 07/16/2011
View Profile
Offline
|
OP mentioned using an extension cord. He needs to derate his load to account for that IR drop
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens, PullRite SuperGlide 2700 15K
2013 KZ Durango 2857
|
Cummins12V98
on the road
Senior Member
Joined: 06/03/2012
View Profile
Offline
|
Look at the YELLOW Camco cord caps, the prongs are solid and seem to work well. sometimes the receptacle is the problem and does not give good contact.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"
"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600
2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable
2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD
|
|
|
