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1L243
Oregon
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Joined: 02/26/2006
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I wanted to run my 13.5 Dometic AC on my generator but having only a 2000 watt Honda EUI, it was either buy a bigger generator or try the Easy Start from Micro Air.
I decided to go with the Easy Start. Installation was straight forward a youtube video was a great help.
After installation you have to go though a learning process for the Easy Start.
After the learning process I connected to my Honda 2000 and it ran the AC just fine. Prior to the Easy Start it would just trip the generator.
I tested amps at sartup prior to Easy start and it was around 32 amps. Now keep in mind this is just for a second when the compressor kicks on but enough to kick off the generator.
After Easy Start the start up amps are around 15 to 18 amps. It's so fast it's hard for the electrical monitor to record it.
The Honda has to be run on fast or run mode and not econo mode when using the AC .
For fun I thought I would see if the AC would run on my 2000 watt inverter and it did!
It was no different than running on the generator as far as the start up is concerned. Once the compressor kicks in the AC is running on about 12 amps.
I have a 500 watt solar system with 2000 watt Renogy inverter. My battery bank is 340 amp hours of lead acid.
I know I can't run the AC long on the battery bank that I now have but it will be interesting to see what happens when I'm dry camping in two weeks and see what the draw is on ac when solar is at it's peak of about 25 amps.
When ever I run a big appliance like microwave or coffee maker off my lead acid batteries my battery voltage drops to about 11.5 volts and it stays there until they appliance is turned off. Then the voltage creeps back up to the actual voltage. I understand this does not happen to Lithium batteries. It makes it difficult to monitor the battery voltage when under a heavy load.
So a big thumbs up to Easy Start by Micro Air
2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.
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BobsYourUncle
Calgary Alberta Canada
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Joined: 12/12/2003
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Very interesting experiment, thanks for posting.
I have a Honda 2000 and I've never ever considered running my AC off it. Food for thought for sure.
Ok if you're boondocking and nobody else is around I guess. I always use eco mode on mine when running my coffee maker or microwave. Even a Honda is loud when ramped up.
Nice work! ![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ
Dmax/Allison
2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS - 32'
RV Rebuild Website
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bob_nestor
murphy
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Joined: 05/08/2005
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From other postings I've seen where people have tested running their A/C off batteries and they are reporting that you can get about 1 hr of run time for each 200aH of battery.
I wonder how long it will be before RV manufacturers start offering an option of placing Lithium-Ion (or sodium) batteries in the generator bay, installing an inverter at least 2800W, wiring all the 110v outlets and appliances in the RV thru the inverter, and putting Soft Starts in the A/C. And with Lithium or sodium batteries, installing the second high-output alternator in the chassis in addition to as much solar as then can fit on the roof.
While recently researching for my next RV I found one that I liked which I thought could be built this way quite easily to match my camping style. (I'm not looking to run the A/C on batteries other then when I'm traveling, hence the second alternator. Plus future battery technology may improve well beyond where it is now.) I figured I could replace the generator with about 1200aH of Lithium batteries (pricey, but doable). When I contacted the manufacturer with my requested changes, they flatly refused - said the generator couldn't be eliminated and they'd never wire the A/C and microwave thru the inverter. Reluctantly crossed them off my list and moved to other manufacturers.
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Skibane
San Antonio, TX
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Joined: 11/09/2005
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From Micro Air's website: "Generators with 80CC and smaller engines are not recommended with 13.5K BTU and larger compressors. All other loads must be off when operating this close to a generator’s limit."
I mention this because a lot of inverter generators in the 2KW size range use 80CC engines - Champion, Yamaha, Wen, Harbor Freight, etc.
The Honda EU2000i models use a 100CC engine.
The EU2200i models use a 120CC engine - a full 1/3rd larger than 80CC models.
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2oldman
NM
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Joined: 04/15/2001
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My experience has been that a single 2000 will run it, but it's really working hard and LOUD. And if your converter kicks on it'll die. Best to get another and parallel them. Yes, you can parallel a 2200 with a 2000.
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Microlite Mike
NW Washington State
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Joined: 10/31/2021
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Skibane wrote:From Micro Air's website: "Generators with 80CC and smaller engines are not recommended with 13.5K BTU and larger compressors. All other loads must be off when operating this close to a generator’s limit."
I mention this because a lot of inverter generators in the 2KW size range use 80CC engines - Champion, Yamaha, Wen, Harbor Freight, etc.
The Honda EU2000i models use a 100CC engine.
The EU2200i models use a 120CC engine - a full 1/3rd larger than 80CC models.
I have the Easy Start installed on my 13,500 btu A/C and power it with a Champion 2500 w Inverter generator. Does fine and will even start A/C when on 'Eco". Don't know what size engine in my 2500W Champion Inverter but I do know it's enough to run my A/C. Perhaps not for a 15,000 btu model though.
One thing worthy of note is that the A/C with Easy Start installed my A/C starts without the loud "jolt" even on shore power. Doesn't wake everyone in the TT when A/C cycles on in the middle of the night.
"Knowledge is realizing that the street is one-way, wisdom is looking both directions anyway."
~ Albert Einstein
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theoldwizard1
SE MI
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Joined: 09/07/2010
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The Micro-Air EasyStart works differently than most "hard start" add-on, which is why it actually works !
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fj12ryder
Platte City, MO
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Joined: 08/19/2003
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theoldwizard1 wrote:The Micro-Air EasyStart works differently than most "hard start" add-on, which is why it actually works ! Just curious what the difference is between the Micro-Air EasyStart and the SoftStart by SoftStartRV. Not interested in brand bashing by any means, but interested. It would seem they both do the same thing.
Howard and Peggy
"Don't Panic"
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Latner
Indiana
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Joined: 08/06/2006
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fj12ryder wrote:theoldwizard1 wrote:The Micro-Air EasyStart works differently than most "hard start" add-on, which is why it actually works ! Just curious what the difference is between the Micro-Air EasyStart and the SoftStart by SoftStartRV. Not interested in brand bashing by any means, but interested. It would seem they both do the same thing.
From my understanding, Micro-Air is the OG of soft starts, someone from the company went on their own and started SoftStart. There is a quality difference between the two, spend a little more on the original.
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3 tons
NV.
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Joined: 03/13/2009
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From my own perspective (of one who occasionally runs their air conditioner from the inverter), a few observations, but for background, my equipment:
400a/h LFP (formerly, 2 GC wet-cell), 2k watt PSW pass-thru Inverter, 660w solar, Coleman 11kbtu air conditioner w/soft-start, Honda 2200 (formerly, Honda 2000) - system incrementally ($$) upgraded over the years…
***************
Several Observations:
First off (retrospectively…), compared to wet-cells, voltage sag with LFP’s is uber brief and relatively insignificant in such that (in my view…) this sole characteristic ‘may’ even negate the need for a soft-start - However, this is not an ‘anti-soft-start’ argument, of which I believe is superior to a conventional start cap…FWIW these clever proprietary ‘black boxes’ have even replaced capacitors on modern 120v single-phase, home HVAC blower motors, which ‘electronically synthesize’ a far more efficient three phase current during motor start-ups accompanied with variable start-up frequency, negating the need for the old school capacitors previously used to help keep start-up current and voltage in phase…
So I’m somewhat impressed to know that your 2000w inverter (pass-thru or PSW type - I donno??) will run a 13.5kbtu air conditioner (i.e. via characteristically voltage sluggish wet-cells…) interesting - Kudos to the Easy-start!…
So for raw estimation purposes only:
Considering all loads, your fully charged 340a/h capacity wet-cells have an effective useable capacity of only about half that (170a/h), although supplemented with 500w of solar…
However, when using wet-cells, a lower limit of say 60% SOC (State of Charge) seems more practical due to the effects of voltage sag on the compressor motor (ugg!) and what’s now become a struggling inverter…Rising ambient temps will also play a roll increasing motor amperage as well…
A rough thumbnail sketch:
So assuming an air conditioner duty cycle of say 2/3rds, concurrent with say 2/3rds productive solar harvest, and a 40% battery DOD (Depth of Discharge) equaling say 136 usable battery a/hrs:
120a (dc) air cond @ 2/3rds duty cycle = approx 80a/hrs (dc)
18a (dc) concurrent hourly harvest = 62a/hrs hourly run deficit = about 2hrs runtime (compressor cycling) to 124a/hrs consumed, with 12a/hrs in reserve before 60% SOC - 46a/hrs in reserve before 50% SOC…).
Here again, due to their much deeper depth of discharge and nearly stable voltage, LFP’s have a clear advantage via longer run times…
*************
Some Notes:
Initial camper cooldown period (depending on volume) may require a full duty cycle.
This example does not consider ‘other hour’ solar harvest.
Onboard Converter-charger (etc) disabled.
JMO Only,
3 tons
* This post was
edited 07/20/22 04:58pm by 3 tons *
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