joraz
Tucson
Senior Member
Joined: 08/16/2008
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
 Offline
|
We've had several class As with automatic leveling systems but now we have a class C and I'm considering what type of blocks to use. Our rig (27') came with a bunch of those stackable deals but I think I would prefer something simpler. I have a set of blocks that I've used for years at home with the class A. They are 3-high 2X12s. They work great and will raise a rig 5" but they are heavy
.
I like the looks of those single piece 3-level deals but the prices are all over the place. I also see those rocking things which look like they'd work. Also, I see that some people use pieces of horse mat (3/4"). Anyhow, just looking for a recommendation on what to get. Thanks.
jor
09 LazyDaze
|
MitchF150
Puyallup, WA
Senior Member
Joined: 07/13/2002
View Profile
Offline
|
I would just use some scrap 2x6 or 2x8 boards about 18" long and use those..
I was setup and a new neighbor was setting up behind us. I heard this crunching and breaking sounds. I looked over and he was using those "Lego" type of stacking blocks and they were just crunching due to the weight of his Class C.
I had a couple of extra boards and offered him one. That's all he needed. I was leaving the morning, so I just said, keep it, as I'll be leaving in the morning, but no worries.. I got more at home. ![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
Anyway, I've been using the same set for almost 20 years and still working great.
That's just what works for me. I don't need them for leveling that much, but use them for the stabilizer jacks (I have a TT) but when I do need them under the tires, they work great!
Good luck! Mitch
2013 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab Max Tow Egoboost 3.73 gears #7700 GVWR #1920 payload. 2019 Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S.
|
IAMICHABOD
Sunny So Cal
Senior Member
Joined: 12/12/2011
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
I tried the Lego type blocks but found that they broke to easy and were a pain to setup when you don't get it right the first time and had to drive off,re-stack, and make them higher,to labor intensive.
When I bought my RV,a Former Rental, it came with Tri Level Ramps They don't break and if they are good enough to withstand the use in that market they must be good,they still put them in their rentals
I have used them a lot in the last 11 years and have had no problems and they are easy to use and store. I have 6 just in case but never have used them all,4 is the most I have ever needed,most times just 2 if at all,they were for the rear duallys.
I found that The Tri leveler work very well.
![[image]](http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDAyWDUwMA==/z/bLAAAOxycD9TVioR/$_3.JPG?set_id=2)
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C
|
bobndot
USA
Senior Member
Joined: 08/21/2007
View Profile
Offline
|
I think that 'rocking' leveler is for trailers. You need to support both dual wheels not just one on each side.
I started to carry a double set of wood blocks 2x8's as a back up for my hydraulic levelers.
However, since i installed two bubble levels inside my cab with a view of both from my drivers seat, I can usually make it level without using anything.
Just park the rv on a known level spot, then install one level onto the dash offering R-L and the other level I mounted above the passenger seat offering Front-Rear leveling. Most of time I just need to move a couple of feet to make it level.
Being on the 450 chassis makes it heavy enough to limit rocking when walking around inside. I hardly ever use the jacks for stability. I exercise the jacks periodically to make sure they still work.
|
theoldwizard1
SE MI
Senior Member
Joined: 09/07/2010
View Profile
Offline
|
I made my own out of pressure treated 2x6.
Cut to length. Run one edge through a table saw so that it is reasonably square to the face. Use a speed square an make 2 or 3 lines across one board. Us the lines as guide and drill a 1/2" hole about half way across the board. Apply construction adhesive and 4" long screws to connect the two edge faces. Make sure the growth rings are going in opposite directions. By making your 2x12 this way, it is a lot less likely to crack !
You can do the same with PT 2x4 but you will need 3 pieces. I have found that they might seem heavy at first, but leave them exposed to the weather and they will be a lot lighter the next year.
|
|
|
WinMinnie02
NJ
Full Member
Joined: 11/26/2012
View Profile
Offline
|
Agree with using wood instead of plastic blocks for leveling Class C. Used wood to level unit for the last 20 years.
|
joraz
Tucson
Senior Member
Joined: 08/16/2008
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
Thanks for the replies. Now I'm gravitating to wood although those 3-high plastic deals look pretty good. Anyhow, if I use 2x8 or even 2x6 those babies will be much lighter than my 2x12 monsters. Still thinking. Everybody have a great Saturday!
jor
|
Bumpyroad
Virginia
Senior Member
Joined: 12/01/2005
View Profile
Offline
|
whatever you use, be sure that they support the full width of the tire tread. the plastic stackables were not wide enough for my class A tires.
bumpy
|
LMHS
NM
Full Member
Joined: 06/27/2022
View Profile
|
I cracked a set of Lynx Leveler blocks on my old Class C. I used them on a soft sand site. They work great as long as they are well supported. I do think they have their place. I've used wood too. I recently bought a new set to use with the truck camper. They will work nicely to lift the ground end of the folding steps.
|
VA-Apraisr
glen allen, VA
Senior Member
Joined: 12/23/2004
View Profile
|
Got those 3-level one piece as shown above and love them. They stack together beneath my sofa and super easy and very strong. Otherwise, salt-treat wood can be used to create the same thing.
|
|
|
