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Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > Driveway Incline Issue

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allenECUUNC

USA

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Posted: 09/01/22 07:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When we put our WD set on it looks great but again we bought the one with bottom saddles and cost us $1000 for them to put on... won't do that again. I think because of this the Hitch has also shifted lower. Should I just re-adjust to be level I assume and that might help as well.

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 09/01/22 09:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Couldn’t see the pics but remember the jack is designed for a significant load already so if it doesn’t appear to put “more” load on it IE picks up the back of the TV significantly then it’s likely fine.
Another easy cheap option, get a drop hitch stinger, flip it over to raise the trailer tongue significantly, and use it to get the trailer in and out of the driveway.


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schlep1967

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Posted: 09/01/22 09:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After looking at your set-up my first suggestion is out. And disconnecting your weight distribution will only make it worse.
I think you are stuck with boards under your rear tires or .... Get some airbags installed on the vehicle, preferably with an onboard pump, so you can inflate them before backing into the driveway. You may even need to wait to inflate until you already have the back end of the trailer up the driveway.


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opnspaces

San Diego Ca

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Posted: 09/01/22 12:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Take the roller ball off. Then make a mark on the hitch where the drop is sticking out below the bolts. Then take the hitch apart and take it to a machine shop or a metal fabricator and get the bottom of the hitch chopped off.

Below is not your hitch. But the red box shows a bunch of unnecessary steel sticking down below the hitch head that can be cut off for probably less than $50

[image]

* This post was edited 09/01/22 01:08pm by opnspaces *


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Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 09/01/22 01:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

schlep1967 wrote:

After looking at your set-up my first suggestion is out. And disconnecting your weight distribution will only make it worse.
I think you are stuck with boards under your rear tires or .... Get some airbags installed on the vehicle, preferably with an onboard pump, so you can inflate them before backing into the driveway. You may even need to wait to inflate until you already have the back end of the trailer up the driveway.


It already has air leveling (most likely) and is also likely 19 year old components that aren't real cheap. I wouldn't recommend stacking bags on tht vehicle just to see how far you could stretch the OE air shocks.

Grit dog

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Posted: 09/01/22 01:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Grit dog wrote:

Couldn’t see the pics but remember the jack is designed for a significant load already so if it doesn’t appear to put “more” load on it IE picks up the back of the TV significantly then it’s likely fine.
Another easy cheap option, get a drop hitch stinger, flip it over to raise the trailer tongue significantly, and use it to get the trailer in and out of the driveway.


Well, your hitch is already raised a bit, now I seen the pics.
Answer is the same, although getting your hacksaw out and chopping a little off the bottom of the jack, IF, it's only dragging by a bit, is free, quicker and easy as well.

opnspaces

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Posted: 09/01/22 04:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you decide to hacksaw it pull the hitch out and twist it 90 degrees sideways and reinsert. That way it will be easier to cut.

allenECUUNC

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Posted: 09/01/22 08:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok, I agree with all and getting ready for the 2nd-weekend camping trip in the morning. I want to address all those statements.

Step 1. Take roller ball off
Step 2. Pulling out was easier to take a left at an angle since the tree is in the right side of the driveway exit.
Step 3. Let the hitch scape (I thought this was doing damage to the system but can now understand just the bottom metal piece.)
Step 4. When returning try again to scrap and push up along with boards. It seems to be only a few inches of clearer but it happens twice. Moving the 2X4 worked. I've also seen driveway ramps on amazon but unsure of exactly which ones I need.

Last time we got the best angle swooping in while at same time not going over curb. I would think you don't want the trailer doing that and tilting. If it was flat trailer sure.

Grit dog

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Posted: 09/03/22 02:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

^ why not just fix the problem rather than planning your attack angles on your driveway?

JBarca

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Posted: 09/05/22 09:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

allenECUUNC wrote:

Ok, I agree with all and getting ready for the 2nd-weekend camping trip in the morning. I want to address all those statements.

Step 1. Take roller ball off
Step 2. Pulling out was easier to take a left at an angle since the tree is in the right side of the driveway exit.
Step 3. Let the hitch scape (I thought this was doing damage to the system but can now understand just the bottom metal piece.)
Step 4. When returning try again to scrap and push up along with boards. It seems to be only a few inches of clearer but it happens twice. Moving the 2X4 worked. I've also seen driveway ramps on amazon but unsure of exactly which ones I need.

Last time we got the best angle swooping in while at same time not going over curb. I would think you don't want the trailer doing that and tilting. If it was flat trailer sure.


Hi,

Now that I can see your pic, this one,

[image]

I have a few comments/thoughts.

First, from my background on GM truck receivers, I recommend you to "not" take the bars off your hitch with that style of GM truck receiver you have. You are overloading the receiver by the name tag, and worse, you are backing up hill putting excess downward force into the truck receiver. Both are not doing any good for that style receiver.

Member ktmrfs recommend getting a WD hitch with the WD bars on top, this is a possible solution. EAZ lift makes that they call it the Re-Curve, see here: https://www.eaz-lift.com/products/recurv........-r3-weight-distribution-hitch-1000lb-kit

There is research to do to make sure you get the correct one, and get it installed and setup right. The link I gave you was to the series hitch that has the WD bars on top, not the exact hitch to get. Mounting and setting up your own WD hitch is very doable, and knowing how to setup a WD hitch on your camper is a very good idea in the long run. Every camper tower should understand it.

Your old (new hitch) can be sold on Craig's list, Facebook Market place etc.

A thought that may help, if when you pull out, if going out is easier, use tape on the driveway to mark the tire path of the trailer. Then when backing in, you have a target to to hit and try to repeat the same path. Adjust tape to find the sweet spot. Then use spray paint and put dots of paint on the driveway to last until you can find a long term solution.

Using the boards with the WD hitch on, combined with the tape and paint markings my be a workaround until you have a better fix.

Again, I would not be using dead weight hitch setup with your camper tongue weight on that GM truck receiver backing up hill. Sooner or later you will have other problems with truck hitch.

Hope this helps

John


John & Cindy

2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver

2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)


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