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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Joined: 12/18/2004
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Hi HMS Beagle,
With lead acid house bank and lead acid starter I had charging. Enough that a 60 amp fuse fell on its sword.
My upgrade was to dual #8 (oem was #8) with twin 50 amp automatic circuit breakers. My ammeter maxes out at 70 amps--and I did have occasions where it would not display.
The lead acid were replaced with telcom jars, and whoops there was no charging from the alternator to the house unless I was running the microwave or other heavy draw. In fact it regularly sent power to the alternator. I replaced the starter battery with an AGM. No improvement.
My 20 amp renogy 20 amp dc to DC charger is sending up to 19.6 amps to the house bank. It is NOT a short run and is #8 wire. There is no voltage sensor.
I'm happy as a clam to have charging going on.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
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StirCrazy
Kamloops, BC, Canada
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Joined: 07/16/2003
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Hemi Joel wrote:theoldwizard1 wrote:Hemi Joel wrote:I just use a pair of 8 gauge wires from the truck battery to the camper batteries. That eliminates the voltage drop of the 7 pin and puts a nice charge into the camper batteries whenever I drive.
It has been proven 100s of times, that with modern vehicles, large gauge wires will NOT give you a 100% charge on your auxillary battery bank.
Some charge, yes. Just not 100%.
That makes no sense at all. The alternator doesn't know how many batteries are connected to it. It senses voltage. Batteries that are connected equalize over time.
Regardless, it has been working for me for over 10 years. If you want to buy a device to charge your 12 volt batteries better than a 12 alternator that was designed to charge 12 volt batteries, that's your call.
what you seem to be forgetting is that a altanator output is for charging starting batteries, and as long as you use thoes in your camper/trailer/motorhome for house batteries you'll be fine, might not have that much capacity but you'll charge them up good. the problem comes into when you go to different types of batteries like deep cycle, gell, lithium etc. they require different charge profiles for efficient and proper charging in order to get charged fully and with out doing dammage to the battery its self. a dc to dc charger alows you to charge using proper profiles for your battery type alowing longer life and proper charging.
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100
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LamboDesigns
Steamboat Springs
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Joined: 01/29/2017
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Here's my experience with adding a DC to DC converter. 2016 Ford and Lance camper with all the wiring per their recommendations. While I got some charging out of the truck it was less than optimal and trying to run the refrigerator on DC meant I got to my destination with low batteries. The longer I drove the lower the batteries got. It just didn't work. I also got tired of messing with running the refrigerator on propane. Sometimes it worked fine and other times I arrived with it out...added baffle....new thermocouple... etc. Based on recommendations from a lot of people I decided to add a DC to DC converter.
Bottom line. The DC to DC converter just works and works well so I arrive at my destination with fully charged batteries and a cold refrigerator every time. I went with the combo Renogy MPPT and DC to DC all in one (DCC50S) to replace my PWM solar controller while I was at it. It gives 25 amps from solar and 25 amps from the truck with priority from solar. It will also charge the truck battery from solar if it gets low when you are parked for a long time. For me it was the right option and I should have added one a long time ago. It is also LiFePO4 compatible so when I upgrade batteries I only need to change the setting. If your rig charges while driving, or you don't need it to, then a DC to DC charger is not for you. For the rest of us.... they are awesome.
2013 Lance 855S with most options
2016 Ford F250 4x4 gas, 3.73, airbags, bigwig, homemade stableloads, 20" wheels with toyo open country II
Sold - 1989 Fleetwood Jamboree Class C
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ticki2
NH
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Joined: 07/09/2008
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Hemi Joel wrote:I just use a pair of 8 gauge wires from the truck battery to the camper batteries. That eliminates the voltage drop of the 7 pin and puts a nice charge into the camper batteries whenever I drive. I use a 200 amp blade switch that is mounted on the truck battery to isolate the truck battery when the situation calls for it, but that is rare.
The reason it’s working for you , and also for me , is the age of the truck . Newer trucks , last decade , have smart charging , meaning as soon as the starting batteries are satisfied charging goes way down , so the house batteries would get very little , especially with the voltage drop.
'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed
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S Davis
Western WA
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Joined: 08/11/2005
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ticki2 wrote:Hemi Joel wrote:I just use a pair of 8 gauge wires from the truck battery to the camper batteries. That eliminates the voltage drop of the 7 pin and puts a nice charge into the camper batteries whenever I drive. I use a 200 amp blade switch that is mounted on the truck battery to isolate the truck battery when the situation calls for it, but that is rare.
The reason it’s working for you , and also for me , is the age of the truck . Newer trucks , last decade , have smart charging , meaning as soon as the starting batteries are satisfied charging goes way down , so the house batteries would get very little , especially with the voltage drop.
That is not true on newer GM HD trucks, my 2019 Chevy 2500HD sits above 14 volts, when changing my batteries it will ramp up to just above 15 volts @ 50amps.
According to the above statement I should have a smart alternator, but I have yet to see this mysterious lowering of voltage a few people on here keep stating. So maybe Ford and Ram do but my 2013 and 2019 Chevys don’t or if they do the alternator is smart enough to ramp up under heavy load.
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Bedlam
PNW
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Joined: 06/13/2012
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What I have not seen posted is the fact that even if you use like chemistry batteries in the camper and truck, the capacity and age of the different batteries also affects charging (in addition to the small gauge trailer plug wiring). When you look at the diesels with dual start batteries, they have to be changed out in matched sets to keep optimal charging and power delivery (discharging). Putting in a DC to DC charger helps overcome these differences.
Chevy Sonic 1.8-Honda Passport C70B-Host Mammoth 11.5-Interstate Car Carrier 20-Joyner SandViper 250-Kawasaki Concours ZG1000-Paros 8' flatbed-Pelican Decker DLX 8.75-Ram 5500 HD
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S Davis
Western WA
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Joined: 08/11/2005
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Bedlam wrote:What I have not seen posted is the fact that even if you use like chemistry batteries in the camper and truck, the capacity and age of the different batteries also affects charging (in addition to the small gauge trailer plug wiring). When you look at the diesels with dual start batteries, they have to be changed out in matched sets to keep optimal charging and power delivery (discharging). Putting in a DC to DC charger helps overcome these differences.
My two lifePO4 (560ah) will charge at 50 amps until they are almost completely charged with the low internal resistance unlike lead acid or agm.
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Bedlam
PNW
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Joined: 06/13/2012
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Running that mixed setup, I wonder if your truck batteries are getting overcharged?
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theoldwizard1
SE MI
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Joined: 09/07/2010
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Hemi Joel wrote:theoldwizard1 wrote:Hemi Joel wrote:I just use a pair of 8 gauge wires from the truck battery to the camper batteries. That eliminates the voltage drop of the 7 pin and puts a nice charge into the camper batteries whenever I drive.
It has been proven 100s of times, that with modern vehicles, large gauge wires will NOT give you a 100% charge on your auxillary battery bank.
Some charge, yes. Just not 100%.
That makes no sense at all. The alternator doesn't know how many batteries are connected to it. It senses voltage. Batteries that are connected equalize over time.
Yes, batteries will equalize or time. How many hours are you willing to wait ? For heavily discharged house batteries, it could be more than 10 hours !
Why ? Because the alternator and internal voltage "regulator" no longer determine the actual voltage output !. In an effort to save fuel the engine computer goes through calculations that MINIMIZE the voltage put out by the alternator.
Don't believe me. Start your vehicle and immediately check the voltage at the battery. Drive for 10-15 minutes and, with the engine running, check the voltage again. It will be close to 13.2V, just enough to prevent a battery from discharging. Not high enough to recharge a house battery.
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theoldwizard1
SE MI
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Joined: 09/07/2010
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S Davis wrote:
That is not true on newer GM HD trucks, my 2019 Chevy 2500HD sits above 14 volts, when changing my batteries it will ramp up to just above 15 volts @ 50amps.
According to the above statement I should have a smart alternator, but I have yet to see this mysterious lowering of voltage a few people on here keep stating.
Check the voltage at the starting battery immediately after starting and at the house battery.
Drive for 10-15 minutes and, with the engine still running, check those voltages again.
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