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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > Brakes grabbing

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opnspaces

San Diego Ca

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Posted: 09/12/22 10:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sound like something in intermittently applying your brakes. Do you by chance use your left foot on the brake pedal? I've seen people burn up their brake pads because they rest their left foot on the pedal.

Check that the emergency brake cable and pin is not pulled.

Find a mobile RV tech to come pull the wheels and inspect the brakes to make sure nothing is broken.

as said earlier, turn the gain way down on the controller or snip the brake wire between the 7 pin and the axle. Then drive carefully to an RV shop to get it repaired.


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MFL

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Posted: 09/12/22 11:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:

MFL wrote:

Hey JR, this is a common issue, but normally takes at least a light touch of pedal, that can result with braking similar to pulling the pin. Very aggressive, tires chirp/maybe smoke. As Grit mentioned, turning the gain way down will help, but braking will be diminished.

It starts mostly intermittent, due to the wiring moving/bouncing inside the tube.

Quick fix..cut the wires going through tube, and run new cross wire outside the tube.


Sorry, I do not have enough info to tell the OP what the problem is.


Lol, you should have just stopped there, while you still were correct!!





JRscooby

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Posted: 09/12/22 01:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MFL wrote:

JRscooby wrote:

MFL wrote:

Hey JR, this is a common issue, but normally takes at least a light touch of pedal, that can result with braking similar to pulling the pin. Very aggressive, tires chirp/maybe smoke. As Grit mentioned, turning the gain way down will help, but braking will be diminished.

It starts mostly intermittent, due to the wiring moving/bouncing inside the tube.

Quick fix..cut the wires going through tube, and run new cross wire outside the tube.


Sorry, I do not have enough info to tell the OP what the problem is.


Lol, you should have just stopped there, while you still were correct!!


Well, over the years I have made house payments going out to help the people that must get trailer lights working so they can leave. For the last 8 years I have maintained a fleet of lawn maintenance trailers. And all that time I have never seen a trailer that had more than 2 conductors going to the wheels. In every case, 1 is ground, the other gets power only when the brakes should be applied.
Now the OP can do what he wants, but the only way the wires inside the axle can cause a brake to lock at random is some cut and run new wire clown has put a hot wire inside the axle. Without power from somewhere contacting a wire that goes to the magnet, power will not apply the brake. It is possible a bad spring inside the drum could cause trouble, but much more likely a short where the brake wire is close to another wire that has power.
If the OP was having trouble with brakes not applying when should, I would suggest he check for voltage and ground every connection. If was good before going into axle, then nothing at wheel end, then and only then would I consider replacing, or less likely bypassing, the wire inside axle. (More likely, I would disconnect at each end, so could pull enough to make repair where wire goes thru housing. Wire inside the tube is pretty well protected) But for brake grabbing or coming on at random? Problem ain't in axle. And Cut and Run New will not solve the issue

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 09/12/22 01:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

canoe on top wrote:

Check brake light switch.

IF it's an old school brake unit triggered off the brake light switch.


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MFL

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Posted: 09/12/22 01:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

^^JR...no sense to dig a deeper hole, just reread my last two posts. You were correct, you have no idea, nor do I on the info given.

Now you asked me to explain my earlier reply. I did...you still are not comprehending what I said. "Even a light touch to the BRAKE PEDAL", can cause the issue I described.

You obviously have never replaced wiring inside the axle tube, when needed. The chafing to wire inside, leaving lots of bare wire, will shock you! I have BTDT, so I'm speaking of personal experience. Have owned 4 RVs, and a dozen other type trailers.

Trailer lights are an easy fix, for anyone that can understand what is normally a simple ground problem. Anyone can service a couple slow moving, small, lawn equipment trailers.

BTW...your house payments must be really small, that you can make them, by helping someone get their trailer lights working. That is good, if you are not taking advantage of friends or relatives by overcharging.

Now, we will wait for further info from OP, unless YOU have another question, but best not to hijack the thread at this point!

Jerry

Tyler0215

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Posted: 09/12/22 02:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Follow up
Went to a trailer repair shop. Installed new break away switcch. Brakes are working fine now.I will check each individual wheel when I get home and check for good ground and chafed wires.

Gdetrailer

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Posted: 09/12/22 02:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tyler0215 wrote:

Follow up
Went to a trailer repair shop. Installed new break away switcch. Brakes are working fine now.I will check each individual wheel when I get home and check for good ground and chafed wires.


Hopefully that fixes it.

Makes sense, breakaway switches are heavily exposed to weather and it is possible with heavy soaking rain can get past the rubber oring and fill up the switch cavity with water.. Water sloshes as you drive and makes good enough connection to short the two contact fingers inside the switch which allows full battery voltage to be applied to brakes..

Sort of surprised that did not lock and slide the wheels on you though..

bakedalaskan1

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Posted: 09/12/22 02:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You have a failed component in one of the brakes that gets wedged once in a while. Spring came off, pad delaminated, or the adjuster fell out. You will have to pull the drums to figure it out.

JRscooby

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Posted: 09/12/22 04:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tyler0215 wrote:

Follow up
Went to a trailer repair shop. Installed new break away switcch. Brakes are working fine now.I will check each individual wheel when I get home and check for good ground and chafed wires.


Thanks for the update. Watch your controller pretty close for a while. Backfeed from break-away has damaged some.

MFL wrote:

^^JR...no sense to dig a deeper hole, just reread my last two posts. You were correct, you have no idea, nor do I on the info given.

Now you asked me to explain my earlier reply. I did...you still are not comprehending what I said. "Even a light touch to the BRAKE PEDAL", can cause the issue I described.


Yes, you talked some silliness that you have know idea. You said problem inside axle tube. A brake will not lock electrically unless power can run a circuit thru the magnet. If there is a short inside the tube, or a broken wire causing open circuit. power does not go to magnet


Quote:

You obviously have never replaced wiring inside the axle tube, when needed. The chafing to wire inside, leaving lots of bare wire, will shock you!


I should of said check the ends where it goes in axle. That is the only place it will chaff. Now there is a good chance that over time, or holding brake on/pulling BAW pin, the wires will burn the insulation off

Quote:

I have BTDT, so I'm speaking of personal experience. Have owned 4 RVs, and a dozen other type trailers.


I have owned over a dozen trailers, some that where pulled over 100,000 miles a year. Right now I own 1/2 of 2 car trailers, my RV, a utility trailer, tool trailer, and a end dump that I pulled the light wires into the bed rails over 25 years and 2 million miles ago.

Quote:

Trailer lights are an easy fix, for anyone that can understand what is normally a simple ground problem. Anyone can service a couple slow moving, small, lawn equipment trailers.


LOL. The guy that has to pay the guys to stand around because the 7-8 trailers are not ready when grass needs cut.

Quote:

BTW...your house payments must be really small, that you can make them, by helping someone get their trailer lights working. That is good, if you are not taking advantage of friends or relatives by overcharging.


Well, friends and relatives don't pay, unless working on CMV. But when work was slow I put name and phone number on the wall of scalehouse. I did not only fix lights, anything that would get a CMV put out of service. Several guys did the same kind of work, and after a while I was called for most light work. Easy, yes. If you understand, and no C&RKW has richarded around with it.

Gdetrailer

PA

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Posted: 09/12/22 04:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bakedalaskan1 wrote:

You have a failed component in one of the brakes that gets wedged once in a while. Spring came off, pad delaminated, or the adjuster fell out. You will have to pull the drums to figure it out.


OP checked drum temps on all the wheels and had elevated temps on all the wheels, basically pointing to something that must be "common" to all brake assemblies..

Whats the "odds" that all four brake backing plates had one or more catastrophic mechanical failures all at once then randomly all at the same time "fix" themselves and then all at once randomly fail at the same time again later?

I suspect slim to none?

All four electromagnets energizing at the same exact time randomly is a much more reasonable possibility which would have a much high chance of probability of happening..

Break away switch definitely could do that as can the brake controller malfunctions in the vehicle or a short in the trailer plug that bridges the charge line to the electric brake wire..

Breakaway switch is a cheap and very easy fix to try..

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