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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > DIY 50 amp to 20 amp pigtail

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toedtoes

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Posted: 11/09/22 01:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

KnowNuthin wrote:

My tractor is parked next to the wall where the electric service is located… less than 10’…. My shortest HD extension cord is 50’…

Part of the reasoning behind my original idea was so II could plug a custom length cord directly into the outlet…

I might just cut one of my cords in half and get two replacement ends to create shorter cords… the 50’ one I’m using for my diesel pickup block heater gets warm when used…


That works. If this is going to be a yearly need, you could size the cut to exactly the length needed. I'd say take a 50ft cord and make two 15 feet and a 20 foot from it - that gives you a couple shorter cords for when you are RVing.


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Grit dog

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Posted: 11/09/22 02:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

toedtoes wrote:



That works. If this is going to be a yearly need, you could size the cut to exactly the length needed. I'd say take a 50ft cord and make two 15 feet and a 20 foot from it - that gives you a couple shorter cords for when you are RVing.


Or NOT do what some people think is a good idea (hacking a perfectly good expensive waterproof cord into multiple chunks) and just put it in a bucket or cover the cord from UV if it's sitting outside all year.

Especially since it was established in the first post that there is no need for any sort of "HD" power cord anyway (to run the block heater on the tractor).


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Mike134

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Posted: 11/09/22 02:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

KnowNuthin wrote:

Grit dog wrote:

Gittin a little deep and off topic for a simple plug in your block heater question that the conundrum has been solved already.


I belong to another, motorcycle related web board where I, along with seven others, perform the job of moderator…

I’ve come to the realization that, Eventually, “Off topic” is standard operating procedure in most threads… if the OP continually brings the focus back to center the thread will live on with much relevant information brought forth…

As moderator, I humorously pointed out to one of our newer members that the official record was five posts before the thread went completely off the rails… gave him the advice: “keep bringing things back to your original issue and ignore the ‘fluff’…”

I guess we should be thankful we got well into page 3 before things began to go sideways…

…and, yes, I’m thankful to all those more electrically knowledgeable than myself who kept me from frying my barn/tractor/electrical system…


You made it to 3 pages before going sideways because of less "experts" Now if you want to go sideways quickly ask how will my 1/2 ton handle a 8000lb 30 foot travel? (it does well don't listen to forum garbage)


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enblethen

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Posted: 11/09/22 05:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Seems odd that using what I believe is a questionable solution rather than to install a 15- or 20-amp circuit and receptacle for the tractor.
Receptacle could be used for other purposes.


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KnowNuthin

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Posted: 11/10/22 04:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

enblethen wrote:

Seems odd that using what I believe is a questionable solution [emoticon]rather than to install a 15- or 20-amp circuit and receptacle for the tractor.
Receptacle could be used for other purposes.


Next summer… I promise… I will install a dedicated 15a circuit for the tractor… but right now it’s too friggin’ cold…[emoticon]


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wa8yxm

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Posted: 11/10/22 04:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

KnowNuthin wrote:

enblethen wrote:

Seems odd that using what I believe is a questionable solution [emoticon]rather than to install a 15- or 20-amp circuit and receptacle for the tractor.
Receptacle could be used for other purposes.


Next summer… I promise… I will install a dedicated 15a circuit for the tractor… but right now it’s too friggin’ cold…[emoticon]


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Cummins12V98

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Posted: 11/11/22 08:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

KnowNuthin wrote:

enblethen wrote:

Seems odd that using what I believe is a questionable solution [emoticon]rather than to install a 15- or 20-amp circuit and receptacle for the tractor.
Receptacle could be used for other purposes.


Next summer… I promise… I will install a dedicated 15a circuit for the tractor… but right now it’s too friggin’ cold…[emoticon]


I advise 12GA wire and 20A breaker.


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KnowNuthin

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Posted: 11/11/22 09:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cummins12V98 wrote:



I advise 12GA wire and 20A breaker.


Our barn sub-panel is supplied by a 50@ 2-pole breaker in our main house panel… the circuits original purpose was to have a 240v, 50@ welder outlet in the garage.. I had an electrician repurpose that service to our 50@ RV plug in the barn (no longer a 240v outlet in the garage)…

I currently have one 50@ and 2-20@ breakers in the sub-panel… when we plug in the RV we shut off the. 20a breakers and vice-versa…

The spousal unit is an electrical engineer and as such has assured me EVERYTHING electrical is underrated… I.e. we have more than 50@ going into the barn panel and each of the breakers will handle more than their rated capacity (but will trip in the event of an short/overload)… at least that’s what I heard… when she gets going I understand about every third word, the rest is electrical-eze…

Chances are very good I won’t ever run each of the circuits up to their rated capacity… but I’m the worrying kind…

My intention was to replace one of the existing 20a breakers with a 15a then add a second 15a breaker…. Which would give me 20a + 15a + 15a = 50a (plus the dedicated 50a RV outlet)

Yes? No? Other suggestions?

wnjj

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Posted: 11/11/22 11:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The breakers in the sub panel do not have to add up to the capacity of the supply. Look at your house main panel as an example to see far more than 200A or whatever size panel you have.

Consider too that 50A at 240V is equivalent to 100A at 120V. So you can put several 20A breakers in there and not have an issue even if all were maxed out.

I also see no reason to turn breakers on and off as use them. The 50A breaker at the house will prevent you from overloading the supply.

On final nit pick: You still have a 240V plug in your barn if the RV plug is a 50A one. The RV just uses it as two 50A , 120V circuits.

ktmrfs

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Posted: 11/11/22 11:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wnjj wrote:

The breakers in the sub panel do not have to add up to the capacity of the supply. Look at your house main panel as an example to see far more than 200A or whatever size panel you have.

Consider too that 50A at 240V is equivalent to 100A at 120V. So you can put several 20A breakers in there and not have an issue even if all were maxed out.

I also see no reason to turn breakers on and off as use them. The 50A breaker at the house will prevent you from overloading the supply.

On final nit pick: You still have a 240V plug in your barn if the RV plug is a 50A one. The RV just uses it as two 50A , 120V circuits.


50A at 240V CAN be UP TO 100A at 120, but could be less, depends on how the two legs are loaded. Each leg is protected to 50A, either leg goes over 50A and a properly installed 50A/240V breaker will trip both legs.


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