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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Dutch_12078 wrote:Heh! Five pages of posts for a question that was answered on the first page... ![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
So there is more than one answer.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
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CharlesinGA
South of Atlanta, Georgia
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pianotuna wrote:CharlesinGA,
Nice find!
No, the credit goes to toedtoes who posted it on page 1 of this discussion. He found it, I just reposted it with a pic. People are not willing to go to a link to see what is being recommended, I merely posted the pic.
pianotuna wrote:Dutch_12078 wrote:Heh! Five pages of posts for a question that was answered on the first page...
So there is more than one answer.
No, one GOOD answer and a bunch of bickering over wire sizes and and other details, that were made irrelevant after the first several posts.
Charles
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed std cab long bed Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. previously (both gone) 2008 Thor/Dutchman Freedom Spirit 180 & 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome.
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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CharlesinGA wrote:
pianotuna wrote:Dutch_12078 wrote:Heh! Five pages of posts for a question that was answered on the first page...
So there is more than one answer.
No, one GOOD answer and a bunch of bickering over wire sizes and and other details, that were made irrelevant after the first several posts.
Charles
I disagree. My break out box is a better solution than the item in the picture. It is, however, more expensive.
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toedtoes
California
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Both answers are what the OP wanted. The OP stated they need a TEMPORARY solution for right now because the weather is not conducive for wiring work. They plan on a permanent solution later on.
1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile)
1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer
Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers)
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KnowNuthin
Centennial, CO
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pianotuna wrote:
I disagree. My break out box is a better solution than the item in the picture. It is, however, more expensive.
First, let me apologize for glossing over your original “breakout box” post…
I’ve researched, to one extent or another, each of the solutions presented on this thread…
I Googled “break out box” and came up with, and I’m paraphrasing: “A device to troubleshoot multi cable, technological systems” or “A breakout box is useful in diagnosing OBD and OBDII systems in modern vehicles”…
As you can tell from my original pigtail idea, I’m FAR from “electrically knowledgeable”… my eyes began to glass over as the electronic terms used got more esoteric…
This “expensive” break out box you’re referring to obviously has little to do with troubleshooting my barn panel, but try as I might, I can’t find a relevant result on my Google search which describes how this box can address my issue of plugging my tractor into a 50a RV outlet…
2005 2500HD D/A CC LB 4X4 being pushed by:
2016 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS
2007 Ural GearUp Arctic
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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KnowNuthin wrote:pianotuna wrote:
I disagree. My break out box is a better solution than the item in the picture. It is, however, more expensive.
First, let me apologize for glossing over your original “breakout box” post…
I’ve researched, to one extent or another, each of the solutions presented on this thread…
I Googled “break out box” and came up with, and I’m paraphrasing: “A device to troubleshoot multi cable, technological systems” or “A breakout box is useful in diagnosing OBD and OBDII systems in modern vehicles”…
As you can tell from my original pigtail idea, I’m FAR from “electrically knowledgeable”… my eyes began to glass over as the electronic terms used got more esoteric…
This “expensive” break out box you’re referring to obviously has little to do with troubleshooting my barn panel, but try as I might, I can’t find a relevant result on my Google search which describes how this box can address my issue of plugging my tractor into a 50a RV outlet…
You are making a mountain out of a mole hill.
Having a breaker to protect the wire is what is a good idea.
Without a breaker the wire from the 50 amp to the tractor becomes a fuse *IF* there is a short circuit. The chance of that happening is low, but not zero.
Break out boxes were used in theatres to allow more lights to be controlled (dimmed for example) with a single slider. For every light on stage, there had to be an equal wattage one in the basement of the theatre. That's ancient history now.
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toedtoes
California
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The OP has stated twice that he is not electrically inclined, so these comments are more confusing than anything.
His questions are:
What exactly is a break out box?
How will it solve his need to plug a 15/20a engine block heater into a 50a RV outlet?
And how does he make one? Or where can he buy one?
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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toedtoes,
I did a post with a detailed explanation of a break out box.
To repeat: 50 amp plug going to three breakers. One 30 amp on L1; 2 20 amp on L2, with the appropriate female plugs in the box.
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time2roll
Southern California
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toedtoes wrote:Or where can he buy one? Amazon link and picture above.
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
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toedtoes
California
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time2roll wrote:toedtoes wrote:Or where can he buy one? Amazon link and picture above.
Per pianotuna the item which I posted the link and which Charlsesin GA linked the picture above is not appropriate for the task. I was specifically asking them for specifics.
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