pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Joined: 12/18/2004
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heyobie wrote:Pianotuna,
Not sure what you mean by balanced manner?
This is what is balanced and best for twin twelve volt batteries.
![[image]](http://www.rubyorchid.com/RV/images/Pianotuna12V.png)
As it often doesn't cost a dime more to do this, I think it is worth the trouble.
If you wish to understand the "why" surf here:
correctly interconnecting multiple twelve volt batteries
Others may say it doesn't matter--but unless there is a compelling reason to not optimize charging and discharging why not do it the best possible way?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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Joined: 01/05/2005
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Battery connection link from Pianotuna
Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow
2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker
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JaxDad
Greater Toronto Area
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Joined: 08/02/2011
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heyobie wrote:Thanks guys for all the help and education and support. I'm smarter than I was and Crush (that's my RVs name) is now better off.
After I put it all back together I got it working as designed. Victory. I just need to add a toggle switch so I can control when it charges the house.
I’m not sure why you’re concerned about charging it or not, the chassis battery gets ‘charging’ anytime the engine is running, why not the house battery too?
Every other m/h out there works this way and have for many decades now.
To me a switch just invites the possibility of accidentally leaving it off and not having a charged battery.
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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Leaving it on could result in both chassis and house batteries being dead!
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heyobie
Maryland
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Joined: 07/08/2016
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I just feel better with a switch while I'm trying to figure out how this works. One of the things is don't know is whether I have a regular solenoid starter switch or a battery switch (which is just a starting solenoid that can handle continuous power). The previous owner had a push button switch which tells me he was using it to jump the MH. But the batteries were not connected. I just ran it for an hour and everything seems fine. But turning the switch off makes me feel better.
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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In my old Itasca, the switch was three position. Center was off, momentary one direction was for jumping to start rig with aid of house battery, other position was for charging battery.
You could use a single pole on/off switch with light. Connect it so when in on position, switch would be lit meaning battery charge relay is energized.
* This post was
edited 11/14/22 04:02pm by enblethen *
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JaxDad
Greater Toronto Area
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heyobie wrote:I just feel better with a switch while I'm trying to figure out how this works. One of the things is don't know is whether I have a regular solenoid starter switch or a battery switch (which is just a starting solenoid that can handle continuous power). The previous owner had a push button switch which tells me he was using it to jump the MH. But the batteries were not connected. I just ran it for an hour and everything seems fine. But turning the switch off makes me feel better.
The push button is a normal thing, it allows you to start the engine from the house battery in case the chassis battery goes dead or needs help. Kind of like hard-wired booster cables.
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Bordercollie
Garden Grove, CA, USA
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Joined: 03/07/2002
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If you can afford it, try to find a local RV repair service that can restore your rig's 12 volt DC power system. It should include two 6 volt RV "house" batteries connected in series for 12 volts, a battery converter/charger that converts 120vac "shore power" to 12 volts DC to power your interior lights and furnace blower and electronic appliance controls as well as to charge your house batteries, and a device to connect your chassis alternator to charge your house batteries when you are driving/running the engine. If you have an RV generator installed, the system will connect the AC 120volt generator to your converter/charger so that the generator will charge the RV batteries and provide 120 volt AC to operate your roof Air Conditioner, microwave oven and other 120vac items while it is running. The above describes a typical Class C motorhome electrical system and how it works.
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heyobie
Maryland
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My 88 is in much better shape than you have deduced. My Onan generator works great. The inverter/charger has been updated. This unit only came designed with one 12v house. I now have 2 in parallel.
My issue was that the charging system with the car alternator had been kinda stripped out and modified.
With everyone's help here, I got it straightened out and now it works perfectly.
So I am good to go.
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Bordercollie
Garden Grove, CA, USA
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heyobie wrote:My 88 is in much better shape than you have deduced. My Onan generator works great. The inverter/charger has been updated. This unit only came designed with one 12v house. I now have 2 in parallel.
My issue was that the charging system with the car alternator had been kinda stripped out and modified.
With everyone's help here, I got it straightened out and now it works perfectly.
So I am good to go.
Sorry, I had your post confused with Scadaman's
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