klutchdust wrote:



A warped brake rotor will also give you a "pulsating" pedal when applying the brakes. "dragging" your brakes or riding your brakes going downhill is an easy way to do that.

valhalla360 wrote:

Had a weird thing like this where it didn't match the RPM, sometimes it happened, sometimes it didn't on our V10 F250.

Didn't believe it until the mechanic changed it but the idler pully was going bad.

30sweeds wrote:

Have hub caps? Check for the edge of the cap squeaking against the tire.Sounds crazy but mine had a wheel speed squeak and that's all it was.Was about ready to pull everything apart till I accidentally figured it out.

Grit dog wrote:

If it was the brakes, and it could be a harmless brake squeal, the noise would change or go away if you ride the brakes a little while maintaining speed. So not likely brakes.
If it’s not rpm sensitive then not likely to be the accessories or belt.
It’s not random, it’s rotational, so can likely rule out odd non moving parts squeaks as suggested it may be.
If I read your dash right, 111k miles. If it’s on original u joints or carrier bearing then those are the likely culprits. U joints can dry out and if very mild/shallow driveline angles (like a long RV) the u joints dont exercise much and can go a long time before actually showing other signs of pending failure.
After 100k miles u joints and carrier bearings are nearing the end of their service life, frequently.
But you have to get under it and diagnose. Any grease splatter or rusty dust around u joint cups is a sure diagnosis. Any slop in carrier bearing or torn rubber is as well.

Grit dog wrote:

Chris
In your case I presume it’s a 2 piece rear driveshaft. The carrier bearing is the “support” about halfway down the driveshaft. Any torn rubber in the mount or any physical play up and down or laterally is evidence that it is worn out or failing.
U joints probably 3 on the rear ds, the best method is good if you don’t see any physical evidence.
With u joints wear and failure, the following symptoms are the general stages from good to broken
1. Grease has dried out gone away. One or more u joint cups will be warmer than the others and may squeak at certain speeds. Generally lower speeds. If they were in a 4wd front axle you would feel them binding when you turn the steering wheel while driving. Slight back n forth in the steering wheel.
2. May still squeak but dry bearing cups will rust and you’ll see evidence of new rust around the cup seals.
3. They physically are worn enough to clunk or physically feel slop between the u joint and the bearing cups.
4. They west to the point that they break or come apart.

Generally vehicles with good shallow driveline angles will go a long time on a bad u joint. Thousands of miles potentially . Because the u joint rotates very little. Maybe only a couple degrees each direction as the drive shaft rotates.
U joints are generally fairly easy to replace with home hand tools and a big vice. Sometimes a press will be needed. Carrier bearings are also easy although sometimes they must be pressed on and off the driveshaft.
Hope this helps.