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 > New Jeep Gladiator TOAD

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2manytoyz

Central FL

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Posted: 12/01/22 06:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

[image]

I recently modified my new 2023 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon so it can be towed behind our RV (which is changing soon).

The wiring was more complex than the two previous Jeeps I wired as TOADS. Part of it was due to the CANbus system, and LED tail lights with lots of wires.

The RoadMaster EvenBrake system needs a 12V input when the brakes are applied to determine the brake press was successful. The new vehicle no longer uses a basic switch on the brake pedal. It's now a potentiometer so the vehicle can determine how much pedal is being applied. Not a simple mechanical system.

I purchased a brake controller harness, and plugged that into the hidden plug in the dash. I have the tow package, so the wiring was there already. The plug provided a +12V signal when the pedal was pressed, along with a constant +12V, and a ground. This was used for the wireless module. I ran a dedicated cable from the battery, to the braking system with the compressor inside.

It tows flawlessly. Tracks well, with only one slight quirk. Once we arrive, and disconnect the Jeep, the factory TPMS in the Jeep becomes unavailable, and gives an error. Once the Jeep is driven over 15 MPH, each wheel sensor broadcasts, and the system starts registering the pressures. Within a minute or two, all is well.

This vehicle has a push button start. The first step to waking up the computer, is to step on the brake. My theory is each time the pedal is pressed by the aux braking system, part of the Jeep's computer system is activated, but not all of it, causing a fault. Each tail light wire uses a diode, so it isn't backfeeding the wiring. It's not a big deal, and I've talked with another Gladiator owner, using a different wiring kit (Blue Ox vs. my RoadMaster), and noticed the same thing.


Robert
Merritt Island, FL
2023 Thor Quantum KW29
2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited TOAD
2023 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon TOAD
Falcon 2 Towbar, Roadmaster 9400 Even Brake System
http://www.2manytoyz.com/


MetalGator

Florida

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Posted: 12/02/22 06:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for posting this. I currently tow a 2015 Wrangler but I also have an older 1/2 ton Truck. I have been thinking about selling both and getting a Gladiator. But I keep getting sticker shock! [emoticon]


2018 Miramar 35.3
2005 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 1500
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Y-Guy

Tri-Cities, WA

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Posted: 12/02/22 07:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for sharing. Sad that the new Jeeps got so complex but does sound like the manufactures adapted and addressed those challenges.

I am still loving my 2011 Wrangler, but I came real close to buying a barely used 2021 Mojave Gladiator, but like MetalGator when I look now I realize how much I like my no monthly payments Jeep [emoticon]


2007 Winnebago Sightseer 35J
2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon

Alan_Hepburn

San Jose, Ca, USA

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Posted: 12/02/22 11:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We tow either my 2020 Gladiator or my wife's 2022 Wrangler, using the Ready Brute Elite tow bar system, and a home-made version of CoolTech's wiring harness - no messing with the vehicles' CANbus system at all!


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Alan & Sandy Hepburn driving a 2007 Fleetwood Bounder 35E on a Workhorse chassis - Proud to be a Blue Star Family!
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willald

NC

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Posted: 12/06/22 02:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Nice Jeep, and glad to see you were able to work through the challenges of wiring up a newer Jeep.

Some of the issues you are talking about with the wiring, are why when we bought our Jeep about a year ago, we did not want a newer JL model.
We wanted an earlier JK model (ours is a 2018 - see signature).

Ours has been awesome for towing, have had no issues. Is a lot of fun when we get where we going, too.

Best part is the simplicity. Due to the simplicity of the vehicle and its high ground clearance, we were able to set it up for flat towing completely by ourselves. This is/was the first vehicle I've owned that we set up ourselves for flat towing; Always had to hire someone else on previous vehicles.


Will and Cheryl
2021 Newmar Baystar 3014 on F53 (7.3 V8) Chassis ("Brook")
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK ("Wilbur")

Deb and Ed M

SW MI & Space Coast, FL USA

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Posted: 12/08/22 06:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Alan_Hepburn wrote:

We tow either my 2020 Gladiator or my wife's 2022 Wrangler, using the Ready Brute Elite tow bar system, and a home-made version of CoolTech's wiring harness - no messing with the vehicles' CANbus system at all!


We JUST had the Cooltech wiring harness installed on our 2020 Wrangler JLU toad - I'll admit I was simply blown away that all the lights work when the Jeep is just sitting there, motor off.

Y-Guy

Tri-Cities, WA

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Posted: 01/05/23 11:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Funny how things can change in a short time. 30 days ago I was still loving my Wrangler, end of December I was able to pick up a 2020 Gladiator Rubicon and trade my 2011 Wrangler. Loving the Gladiator, but need to start the process of getting it flat tow ready.

Alan_Hepburn

San Jose, Ca, USA

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Posted: 01/05/23 11:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

2manytoyz wrote:


This vehicle has a push button start. The first step to waking up the computer, is to step on the brake. My theory is each time the pedal is pressed by the aux braking system, part of the Jeep's computer system is activated, but not all of it, causing a fault.

You're on the right track: your Jeep, with the OEM LED tail lights, has an extra "sense" line that detects when the brake light is activated, and it causes one of the computers (I think it's the BCM, but I'm not sure) to wake up. CoolTech has designed a kit that deals with this issue - I don't know if anyone else has one to offer.

It's only an issue with the LED lighting - if you have the non-LED lights there's no problem.

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 01/05/23 02:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Honest question, what's the attraction to tying into the vehicle's lighting system, especially on anything that is CanBus or even later greater technology?

I can think of a couple different methods that are most likely cheaper, very simple and present no issues or considerations with messing with the OE electrical system.
Brakes, different story. I'd have those if really needed, but would doo what I could to not have to worry aboot that either.


2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
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Alan_Hepburn

San Jose, Ca, USA

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Posted: 01/06/23 10:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Grit dog wrote:

Honest question, what's the attraction to tying into the vehicle's lighting system, especially on anything that is CanBus or even later greater technology?

I can think of a couple different methods that are most likely cheaper, very simple and present no issues or considerations with messing with the OE electrical system.
Brakes, different story. I'd have those if really needed, but would doo what I could to not have to worry aboot that either.


Well, you need lights out back and there's only a few ways to get them:

* Add new bulbs into the tail light housings - requires new wires, bulb sockets, and drilling holes in the housing.

* Add external lighting - magnetic mount units. This doesn't work too well when the vehicle body is mostly aluminum. Then you've got to store them when not using them, and ensure that the wiring doesn't abrade the paint job when using them.

* Build a light bar that you somehow attach to the rear of the toad when needed - again you need to store it when not in use, and you still have to deal with the wire abrading the paint job.

* Use one of several "plug and play" wiring systems that use the existing wiring and lights - these work well, but as this topic shows, there are instances where specific vehicle issues pop up.

I looked at the CoolTech solution, which adds a switch to the existing wiring going to the rear of the vehicle - the lights are either powered from the toad, or from the RV, but impossible to power from both simultaneously because of the switch. I thought their kit was above my budget so I built my own: about $30 worth of parts and it's working well. I have a switch on my dash and put it in one position to tow and the other position to drive.

As for brakes - again I went with the simplest solution. NSA Ready Brute Elite tow bars have a surge brake built in to the tow bar so there is no need to add a portable box connected to the brake pedal, with a 12V line to keep the unit powered, or tie into the toad's hydraulic system. A simple cable from the brake pedal to the front of the toad is all that's required.

Other people prefer other solutions - that's the nice thing about this country: we have choices and aren't tied to a single solution!

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