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 > Electrical Block Diagram?

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enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 01/06/23 12:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OP: you said you changed out the LP detector. What was make and model of old and what is the make and model of new?
Many Fleetwood's in your vintage had a solenoid mounted adjacent to LP tank shut-off. It would shut off propane if the LP alarm operates. The original solenoid was wired in series with the detector power. New models this solenoid needed to be replaced and wired in differently. The solenoid power comes from a detector output and ground.


Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow

2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker


SCADAMAN29325

Clinton, SC

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Posted: 01/10/23 11:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've checked the DC distribution panel, those fuses are all good. Switched grounds are a pain!

Old detector was a CCI Controls 7719. I have removed that valve when trying to get gas to the stove. New detector is a Pangaea PRG1000A.

The old detector had a yellow and 2 reds coming out of it.
Those were spliced yel to yel, red to red and red to gray going into the floor.

The red and gray may have touched. I didn't see a spark but may have missed it.

Red to gray measures 0.5v
Yes to red and yel to gray measure about 40mv.

To finish tracing the red/gray wires through the underside and forward I will need jack up the driver front tire and then maybe remove the wheel for better access, but I bet it disappears into wrapped bundle.

Thanks!


THANKS! Phil and LuAnn
1st timers, brought it home 2022-10-19,
It may soon be home (in 4y).
1994 Fleetwood Jamboree Rallye
M-T31-Ford-460, 1994 Ford E350
I may not know what I am doing, but I am having fun doing it!

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 01/10/23 12:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The old detector CCI had two power sources. One from the coach battery and one from the chassis. Good chance you blew the fuse from the chassis battery system. That fuse would be under the hood.
You should be connecting to the coach battery system.
The Pangaea does indicate having a solenoid output. The red wire would be power and the other wire from detector would need to go to ground.
I am guessing on Pangaea as no wiring diagram is shown.

SCADAMAN29325

Clinton, SC

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Posted: 01/10/23 03:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Fixed(?) the water pump problem. Because "I don't have a clue what I'm doing, but I'm having a good time doing it"! I would bet that you knew that the pump is on a 3-way switch, one at the door and another in the bath. I didn't know that till about 2 seconds ago. Jeez!

As for the gas detector, getting to that fuse box under the hood is dang near impossible! There's a solid metal cooling conduit laying almost right on top of it.

I spent the afternoon turning ac circuit breakers on/off and pulling the coach fuses to see what they affected.


Here are my notes on that:

Tracing breakers Left to right 1 - 3
#1 green 30a main breaker(?), found no ac anywhere.
#2 red 20a both sides living area and TV outlet
#3 red 20a toaster oven and sink
#4 blue 15a bath and bedroom cabinet TV
(#4 also causes buzzing from power center)
(Could be battery charger)
#5 blue 15a microwave
Air Conditioner?

Tracing fuses. Left to right 1 - 9
#1 15a living area lights
#2 15a hall light and both kitchen and bath vent fans
#3 15a stove light/fan and bed lights
#4 15a ??? not water pump.
#5 5a ??? not water pump.
#6 5a ??? not water pump
#7 15a ??? not water pump
#8 15a water pump
#9 20a ???
Missed checking porch light.
So what are 4,5,6,7 & 9?
Need to check furnace and water heater sources.

SCADAMAN29325

Clinton, SC

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Posted: 01/10/23 09:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ahhh, old detector.

[image]

* This post was edited 01/11/23 07:41pm by SCADAMAN29325 *

SCADAMAN29325

Clinton, SC

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Posted: 01/11/23 07:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One red wire measured 13.4v to ground, gen/coach battery.
The other red wire measured 13.0 to ground, van/chassis battery.
Yellow measured in the millivolts, not connected, was for LP Gas cut-off.
Need to get a ground wire for new gas detector. Will be using power center "return buss bar" and gen/chassis battery for the hot wire.

[image]

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 01/11/23 08:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What I did was to splice the two wires where the solenoid was. If no other true battery ground, it will work. Connecting to wire terminal block if it is battery ground and close would be best!
Use the red wire from the coach battery for feed to detector. Insulate the other wire.

SCADAMAN29325

Clinton, SC

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Posted: 01/12/23 09:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We have the POWER!

There was no ground at the valve, just a single wire running back to the detector. It was using the chassis as the ground.

I used a 10-32 nut (Another trip to the hardwsre store) and, flat and split ring washers to secure the new ground wire to the buss bar. I used the coach's hot wire. Labeled the left the left over wiring. Also placed a note explaining the franken-wiring. [emoticon]

[image]


Thanks very much for the help!

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 01/12/23 09:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sounds good!
And the next problem is?

SCADAMAN29325

Clinton, SC

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Posted: 01/12/23 06:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LOL! I was just getting ready to post a question on doing a leak down test on the LP gas system. If there are no more problems, I'll create a few to keep me busy...

THANKS!

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