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SlowBro
Florida
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Our older RV (2005 Fleetwood 25QB) fridge (Dometic RM2652) died, and I'm wondering if there's any issues replacing it with an RM2620? It is not listed as a replacement model in this chart but as far as I can see the only difference is it's slightly smaller, and I could just shim and bolt it into place as securely as possible.
* This post was
edited 01/15/23 06:10pm by SlowBro *
2010 Coachmen Mirada 34BH, class A, 34.75' long, GVWR 22,000 lbs.
2005 Fleetwood Resort TNT 25QB, hybrid, 27.5' long, GVWR 6,600 lbs.
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Home Skillet
Pearland Texas
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For a 1/3 of the price, you can replace just the cooling unit.
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2005 Gulf Stream Conquest 31ft
BigFoot Levelers,TST in tire TPMS,Bilstein Shocks,Trans temp guage,Lowrace iWAY
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SlowBro
Florida
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Home Skillet wrote:For a 1/3 of the price, you can replace just the cooling unit.
LINK
No, that's more expensive than the one I'm eyeing.
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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The dimensions in the chart shows why it isn't exact fit. Would have to modify opening.
Bud
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SlowBro
Florida
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enblethen wrote:The dimensions in the chart shows why it isn't exact fit. Would have to modify opening.
Yes, I would shim it and bolt it best I could, question is aside from the dimensions, would there be any reason it wouldn't work?
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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I don't see anything in the specs as to why it would not work.
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Chum lee
Albuquerque, NM
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SlowBro wrote:Our older RV (2005 Fleetwood 25QB) fridge (Dometic RM2652) died, and I'm wondering if there's any issues replacing it with an RM2620? It is not listed as a replacement model in but as far as I can see the only difference is it's slightly smaller, and I could just shim and bolt it into place as securely as possible.
I wouldn't say it's "slightly smaller," . . . . . I would say it's considerably smaller! (about 2 cubic feet smaller) If that's OK with you, then, IMO, it's just a matter of some minor cabinetry work (filler slats/panels) and possibly some plumbing work if the propane connection ends up in a slightly different location because of how you choose to mount the new unit. If the 2620 has a condensate drain, make sure there is adequate slope/location to drain the the exterior.
Think of the information in the chart as "for direct replacements" which the RM2620 is not. I believe the RM2652 still has parts available direct from Dometic, and in the aftermarket if you go that route. At least it did was when I replaced my entire unit (RM2652) in 2015. They have gone up quite a bit in price since then. If I remember, I paid about $1,350 installed for a new RM2652 then. I've recently seen refurbished units on Ebay for about $1,000. (add hefty shipping fee)
Chum lee
* This post was
edited 01/16/23 02:40pm by Chum lee *
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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If you don't boondock consider a 120 volt unit.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
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wa8yxm
Davison Michigan (East of Flint)
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Ok when replacing the entire fridge there are basically two considerationss
SIZE.. Smaller you can indeed shim or reframe. but the job may be more involved than you think due to the way the cooling unit works.
RV or "Residential" or .. Special
RV fridges are designed to work off either Electric or propane.. On propane they do eat a small amount of electrical power but.... Mostly propane. So they can go a LONG time on batteries alone.
Residential Do not eat propane. ever.. So you can cap off that line or trace it back to the manafold and plug it off. BUT they do eat ELECTRICITY If you plan to run off battery power you will need some upgrades... and in inverter.
There is a new "Special" type. I call it "Danfoss" after one of the companies that makes this class of compressor.. If someone knows the proper class name. PLEASE let me know.
These are all electric... around 50 watts. (Door closed) Both Norcold and Dometic at one time made them in RV-Sizes.. I have a chest freezer in this class (Small job) used to have one slightly larger lasted 18 years. THey too last quite a while on battery and work very very well. especially under adverse conditions (High/Low ambient temps) (Same as residential in that respect).
And finally: As someone said why not replace just the cooling unit... Thats how I fixed mine..
Some information on RV fridges The box is basically styrafoam. There is a metal frame on which the door hangs.. There are Electronics that sense temp and control it (Scattered about both inside and out)
And the cooling unit. this bolts on the back of the box.. No part of it is inside the box (The fins are not part of the cooling unit) you pull the thing out dissassemble. reassemble with new cooling unit and put it back.
NOTE: I'm making it sound a bit easier as you will reuse the burner and electric heater. the control computer and other stuff so there is quite a bit to disassembly and re-assembly but it can be done "on the bench" as it were.
Technician and I did mine in about 2-3 hours and then since I was last customer of the day we took each other to supper (She drove I paid) got back and it was already cold.. Total for two jobs was (That and a new floor in the slide out) was 2300.00 give or take pocket change. The floor took longer. LOT longer.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
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SlowBro
Florida
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Thanks all, this is the information I came here for :-)
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