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AH_AK
AK
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Joined: 02/01/2021
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Has anyone here modded out a 13 ft flatbed to allow a TC to sit all the way up against the cab?
One would need to relocate the fuel fill line and reduce the width of the last 5 ft of the 13 ft bed to allow clearance for the rear jacks and the dump nozzle. Of course the frame and suspension set the minimum width, but it looks very doable. The added benefit for me would be that I would also gain a 2.5 ft landing outside my Bigfoot 10.5e and open up a host of new stair configurations. Of course, the lockable storage box opportunities are fantastic too.
C&C 4500+ are relatively common and comparatively cheap in my area. Just curious what problems I may encounter with such an undertaking.
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Ron 835
NC
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Could you extend the rear jacks much like the front to clear the flatbed?
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AH_AK
AK
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I thought about this option, but I would still need to either relocate the dump nozzle, or cut out a hole for it in the bed and then be okay with a very tall lift (these flatbeds sit high already). I could be wrong, but I think the jack extenders would need to be custom built. Personally, I am not super confident that the rear jack mounts (specifically the backing wood) could safely carry the moment that would be created by offsetting the jacks. This is definitely a viable option though.
What got me thinking was that I parked next to a flatbed and decided to stick my head under there and see what the layout of the structural members was. It was surprisingly simple and sparse. Assuming the beams are mild steel, the mod would be fairly straightforward for a fab shop or fab hobbyist. The only downside is that the flatbed is not going to be useful for much else after the mod.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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If you’re keeping the full length of the bed, be better and much easier to just get a TC that is bed level with nothing hanging down.
Then you get a bigger back deck and don’t have to modify anything.
Correction, you’d still need extended or dually brackets for the rear jacks just like the front.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
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Reality Check
North Bend
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I guess I'm not really understanding the problem. Pictures? Fuel lines are easy to move. Jacks should clear regardless. Worst case, rear of the camper (anything past the 8' mark) might have a section/part that is lower (i.e. our wings hang down about 1/2" lower than the bottom of the camper). Just put the camper on a mat, or plywood, etc, to raise it up a bit.
I'm not following why the narrowing at the rear? Deck at the back would work great..we use to have a pull out deck that stored under part of the flatbed on another truck.
'16 F550 CC, 4x4 with Link Ultraride air suspension, '18 AF 1150. Just so we can play with our snowmobiles, dirt bikes and fishing boat. And new 20' tag along...kayaks, bikes, mc's and extra water and food!!
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mkirsch
Rochester, NY
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Joined: 04/09/2004
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Reality Check wrote:I guess I'm not really understanding the problem. Pictures? Fuel lines are easy to move. Jacks should clear regardless. Worst case, rear of the camper (anything past the 8' mark) might have a section/part that is lower (i.e. our wings hang down about 1/2" lower than the bottom of the camper). Just put the camper on a mat, or plywood, etc, to raise it up a bit.
I'm not following why the narrowing at the rear? Deck at the back would work great..we use to have a pull out deck that stored under part of the flatbed on another truck.
The big campers have a drop-down in back where they extend past a standard pickup bed.
The big campers are already tall in a pickup truck, and will be even taller on a flatbed. You have to plan routes VERY carefully to avoid low bridges without making it even taller. Get over 13'6" and you're going to have problems even on main roads and interstates. Besides a stall mat is not going to raise the camper enough to clear the rear drop-down on some of these campers.
Narrowing at the rear to clear the cleanouts and rear jacks. A flatbed is as wide as dually fenders.
Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.
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mkirsch
Rochester, NY
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AH_AK wrote:Has anyone here modded out a 13 ft flatbed to allow a TC to sit all the way up against the cab?
One would need to relocate the fuel fill line and reduce the width of the last 5 ft of the 13 ft bed to allow clearance for the rear jacks and the dump nozzle. Of course the frame and suspension set the minimum width, but it looks very doable. The added benefit for me would be that I would also gain a 2.5 ft landing outside my Bigfoot 10.5e and open up a host of new stair configurations. Of course, the lockable storage box opportunities are fantastic too.
C&C 4500+ are relatively common and comparatively cheap in my area. Just curious what problems I may encounter with such an undertaking.
To answer your question, no.
This is kind of like the question about reinforcing the truck's frame from a couple weeks ago. By and large the folks who own truck campers want simple and convenient. We like to buy the truck ready to go. If we have to add anything we like things that bolt on. Cutting the truck apart to make the camper fit is just not something that is commonly, or ever, done.
IF you feel that you have the skills to pay the bills, by all means, knock yourself out.
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KD4UPL
Swoope, VA
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I doubt these are very common with a frame long enough for a 13' flatbed. That length frame, if you find it, only comes with a regular cab truck. What is mistly available is a 60" or 84" CA frame alowing for a 9' or 11' flatbed respectively.
An 11'bed automatically solves yoyr rear jack problem as they will be past the end of the bed. Now you just need to deal with the drain pipe. When I was considering doing this there were a few campers that were flat on the bittom all the back but I firget whuch ones.
If you did use a regular cab truck and 13' bed yoy might actually overload the front axle by getting the camper COG too far forward.
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AH_AK
AK
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KD4UPL wrote:I doubt these are very common with a frame long enough for a 13' flatbed. That length frame, if you find it, only comes with a regular cab truck. What is mistly available is a 60" or 84" CA frame alowing for a 9' or 11' flatbed respectively.
An 11'bed automatically solves yoyr rear jack problem as they will be past the end of the bed. Now you just need to deal with the drain pipe. When I was considering doing this there were a few campers that were flat on the bittom all the back but I firget whuch ones.
If you did use a regular cab truck and 13' bed yoy might actually overload the front axle by getting the camper COG too far forward.
These are very good points. I am thinking of the 84" CA frame with the aft-axle frame extensions. 12' would actually work fine. You are correct that the majority of the trucks I see are 60" CA and would be limited to 9 ft. I have seen several fleet vehicles with the longer flat beds and it seems like there is very little demand for these from the public (which is good from the gettin-it-cheap perspective).
My calculation says ~12% distributed to the front axle for my COG at 24" in front of the real axle on a 204" WB, so front axle should be fine. TBH I have only driven trucks with the COG on or just in front of the rear axle, so I don't know how the shift forward would effect the handling. All I know is weight behind the rear axle is no bueno. Perhaps not as big a deal for the 4500+ truck...hate to be wrong though.
The more I think on this, the more a bolt-on rear platform extension on a 9' bed seems advantageous. That frame would only be sized to handle it's own weight + cargo and dropped down an inch or so below the bottom of the camper, because to my knowledge, the overhang part of the camper is not meant to carry load. I wonder where the COG would end up if I added such an extension and then just placed the camper with the dump nozzle just aft of the end of the bed. It is my understanding that the CA on 60" C&C is 4" longer than a standard long bed pickup. Right now, my COG is like 1-2" in front of the rear axle, which would mean that without modifying the 9' bed to add a slot for the dump, my COG would end up behind the rear axle...then tack on my aft platform mass...mehhh. Maybe I am too focused on COG location and being slightly behind the rear axle on these big trucks would be fine.
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AH_AK
AK
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mkirsch wrote:AH_AK wrote:Has anyone here modded out a 13 ft flatbed to allow a TC to sit all the way up against the cab?
One would need to relocate the fuel fill line and reduce the width of the last 5 ft of the 13 ft bed to allow clearance for the rear jacks and the dump nozzle. Of course the frame and suspension set the minimum width, but it looks very doable. The added benefit for me would be that I would also gain a 2.5 ft landing outside my Bigfoot 10.5e and open up a host of new stair configurations. Of course, the lockable storage box opportunities are fantastic too.
C&C 4500+ are relatively common and comparatively cheap in my area. Just curious what problems I may encounter with such an undertaking.
To answer your question, no.
This is kind of like the question about reinforcing the truck's frame from a couple weeks ago. By and large the folks who own truck campers want simple and convenient. We like to buy the truck ready to go. If we have to add anything we like things that bolt on. Cutting the truck apart to make the camper fit is just not something that is commonly, or ever, done.
IF you feel that you have the skills to pay the bills, by all means, knock yourself out.
I think the TC community does tend to want to be plug-and-play. Not everyone though. There are some people here that have heavily modified their campers/trucks. I suppose that one of the reasons C&C trucks are so much cheaper is that they require mods for a lot of "normal" truck applications and most people don't want to deal with it.
Cutting/welding to a modern truck frame is definitely a bad idea due to the grades of steel that they use. That work is best left to the pros. I am talking about moding out the flat beds, which, to my knowledge, are mostly made from mild steel structural elements that shouldn't require pre- or post-weld heat treatment. Fabrication work on these materials is considerably easier. If it is mild steel and the mod is lightly structural, most competent amateur welders can do the work. This is one of the reasons that I wouldn't build a flatbed from scratch. Start with a well-engineered, well-constructed (used/cheap) platform and lightly modify it.
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