enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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Here is one method for testing knock sensor. Knock sensor testing
Other method is to have engine running with timing light connected. Watching timing mark, hit block in vicinity of knock sensor. Timing should ******.
Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow
2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker
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udidwht
Renton Highlands, Wa.
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enblethen wrote:Here is one method for testing knock sensor. Knock sensor testing
Other method is to have engine running with timing light connected. Watching timing mark, hit block in vicinity of knock sensor. Timing should ******.
Correct. If you have a timing light that will be the easiest method given the other would require you to remove the sensor/s. Doing such will drain coolant from the passage it is threaded into.
1994 Fleetwood Southwind Storm
P-30 chassis 7.4L 454 TBI 58,301 miles and counting....(as of 06/08/19)
VIN# 1GBJP37N4R3314754
Flight System Generator man 360 (PM me)
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OutofTime
Florida
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So yesterday we worked on rebuilding the TBI assembly, all new gaskets and such... Question about the orientation of the injectors themselves. It looks like from the way the connectors lay out the two electric contacts on the top of the injectors need to be laid out horizontally for them to fit versus in a vertical alignment. However, any particular horizontal position they need to be in? When I look the injectors do have a little port sticking out on the side near the bottom and I see when looking in the injector cups there are cut outs at 12pm position and at 9pm. Can' use 9pm because then the electric contacts are vertically aligned. So I guess I need to line up the small port with the 12pm position?
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wa8yxm
Davison Michigan (East of Flint)
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You said you have spark. /OK if you have spark a timing light should flash It may or may not be flashing when the cylinder is near TDC but it should flash. That's step one.. It will flash even if the engine is not running... Though if it eats 12 volts off the battery.. use a stand alone battery (not the cranking battery) to power the light... Inductive pickup should still flash or use a single jumper negative to chassis .
Beyond that... Check the Distributor is properly set and the wires are in the proper sockets and what all the other posters said.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times
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udidwht
Renton Highlands, Wa.
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OutofTime wrote:So yesterday we worked on rebuilding the TBI assembly, all new gaskets and such... Question about the orientation of the injectors themselves. It looks like from the way the connectors lay out the two electric contacts on the top of the injectors need to be laid out horizontally for them to fit versus in a vertical alignment. However, any particular horizontal position they need to be in? When I look the injectors do have a little port sticking out on the side near the bottom and I see when looking in the injector cups there are cut outs at 12pm position and at 9pm. Can' use 9pm because then the electric contacts are vertically aligned. So I guess I need to line up the small port with the 12pm position? Hope this helps it's the only pic I have here with me of mine...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ow3nt7k4hf4gimd/20180512_232309%5B1%5D.jpg?dl=0
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OutofTime
Florida
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Finished rebuilding the TBI... no real change to operation. However I noticed that my timing light was not being consistent when attached to wires 1,3,5. I tested my light against another vehicle I have with spark wires and it was rock solid... so whoever called a faulty dizzy wins a prize.
I tried swapping the cap and button with something nicer, no real change.
I have a dizzy from the junkyard for a SBC and I took the AC-Delco ICM from that and swapped that in. It seemed to run better with that but I didn't have time to set my timing light back up to see if indeed it was firing more consistently.
As I was working on all this I noticed a yellow wire coming off of the plug that goes to the coil that wasn't connected to anything. Does anyone know what the wire is/does? I'm going to do more experimenting tomorrow to see if the old dizzy I grabbed from the junkyard will do better than the chinesium I bought.
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OutofTime
Florida
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Figured out the yellow wire. It's a tach wire, which this RV doesn't have.
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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Still sounds like you installed the distributor one tooth off!
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udidwht
Renton Highlands, Wa.
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OutofTime wrote:Figured out the yellow wire. It's a tach wire, which this RV doesn't have.
The yellow wire...is it part of the chassis wiring harness itself? The engine gets RPM info from the ICM. As for the distributor being the issue, seen this many times folks will get another aftermarket distributor and end up pulling their hair out with an issue that ended up being the new distributor. When it comes to parts and these TBI engines GM and/or Delphi or nothing.
You upload a pic to Dropbox and I can take a look at the wiring you have.
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OutofTime
Florida
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I'll get that to you tomorrow. I think based on the research I did it is the wire that would inform the tach gauge on the instrument cluster for vehicles that came so equipped.
At the same time though, I keep seeing mentions of a coil ground wire.. I don't see a wire coming from the coil harness connector that looks like a ground to the block.
I'll get you the photo tomorrow morning.
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