enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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Must remember to have bonding jumpers between the frame and engine. Engine motor mounts have rubber vibration dampers that isolates engine from frame.
Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow
2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker
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OutofTime
Florida
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Joined: 03/01/2023
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Quote:Good job on the ground bracket near the T stat. Often overlooked. The ground cable on my battery runs straight down to he frame. Cables will sometime corrode inside the sheathing so look them over real good. Also check and clean the positive from battery to starter.
Once clean & tight give them a coat of 'Super Lube' to protect from corrosion.
Update time again. I found two grounds attached to the bolt on the rear of the driver's head. One was the frame strap, the other a wire harness ground. Got that all cleaned up. Next was the negative terminal on the battery attached to the front of the passenger head. Got that shiny and put it back together.
Next I swapped out the O2 sensor with an AC Delco and got that reconnected.
With all that done my brother and I test fired again. It is running better now. Fires on all 8 instead of 7, idles smoother and with less smoke. Still belches black smoke when you try to rev it and falls on its face, almost stalling.
As it was warming up it did start trying to backfire, then it would make adjustments and the backfires would stop.
At this point I'm thinking stuck injectors, FPR or MAP sensor. That's all that is really left that would be making it run so rich short of a bad ECU. I have another set of injectors from a 350 TBI that I'm going to try and swap in to see how the engine behaves then.
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udidwht
Seattle
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Joined: 08/11/2014
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OutofTime wrote:Quote:Good job on the ground bracket near the T stat. Often overlooked. The ground cable on my battery runs straight down to he frame. Cables will sometime corrode inside the sheathing so look them over real good. Also check and clean the positive from battery to starter.
Once clean & tight give them a coat of 'Super Lube' to protect from corrosion.
Update time again. I found two grounds attached to the bolt on the rear of the driver's head. One was the frame strap, the other a wire harness ground. Got that all cleaned up. Next was the negative terminal on the battery attached to the front of the passenger head. Got that shiny and put it back together.
Next I swapped out the O2 sensor with an AC Delco and got that reconnected.
With all that done my brother and I test fired again. It is running better now. Fires on all 8 instead of 7, idles smoother and with less smoke. Still belches black smoke when you try to rev it and falls on its face, almost stalling.
As it was warming up it did start trying to backfire, then it would make adjustments and the backfires would stop.
At this point I'm thinking stuck injectors, FPR or MAP sensor. That's all that is really left that would be making it run so rich short of a bad ECU. I have another set of injectors from a 350 TBI that I'm going to try and swap in to see how the engine behaves then.
The injectors for the 454 differed from the small blocks. Could very well be you have a distributor issue itself. The reluctor on them can crack causing misfire/s. It will require pulling the distributor and examining it. Not that you know what the timing is with the connector connected (16*) you can time to it if you have a live scan app on your phone. I use the following for OBD-1...
http://www.1320electronics.com/products.html
That when connected to your phone will allow you to see live data as it's running. Just give him the VIN off the vehicle and he'll be sure you use the correct .aldl file
The file will be in the following list:
http://www.1320electronics.com/downloads.html
1994 Fleetwood Southwind Storm
P-30 chassis 7.4L 454 TBI 58,301 miles and counting....(as of 06/08/19)
VIN# 1GBJP37N4R3314754
Flight System Generator man 360 (PM me)
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OutofTime
Florida
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The entire dizzy assembly is brand new. I don't think I have an issue there. I'll have more updates once I do more testing and some more parts come in.
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udidwht
Seattle
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OutofTime wrote:The entire dizzy assembly is brand new. I don't think I have an issue there. I'll have more updates once I do more testing and some more parts come in.
What brand distributor?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6310521&cc=1059689&pt=7108&jsn=1113
* This post was
edited 03/18/23 01:47am by udidwht *
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OutofTime
Florida
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udidwht wrote:OutofTime wrote:The entire dizzy assembly is brand new. I don't think I have an issue there. I'll have more updates once I do more testing and some more parts come in.
What brand distributor?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6310521&cc=1059689&pt=7108&jsn=1113
It's a chinesium one from Amazon. That said every time I test for spark by inserting a test light spark is healthy and consistent.
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udidwht
Seattle
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OutofTime wrote:udidwht wrote:OutofTime wrote:The entire dizzy assembly is brand new. I don't think I have an issue there. I'll have more updates once I do more testing and some more parts come in.
What brand distributor?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6310521&cc=1059689&pt=7108&jsn=1113
It's a chinesium one from Amazon. That said every time I test for spark by inserting a test light spark is healthy and consistent.
Don't be surprised if it ends up being the distributor. I've seen to many of them either not work or not work properly (intermittent issue/s).
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udidwht
Seattle
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One other thing to check is the knock sensor. Use a scanner (that I mentioned) and see if it is reading a voltage. If so, it is either picking up a knock or thinks it is and you'll be chasing your tail around.
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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Joined: 01/05/2005
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There is two knock sensors on 7.4 engine. One by start and one near oil pressure sensor on left side of engine near front.
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OutofTime
Florida
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udidwht wrote:One other thing to check is the knock sensor. Use a scanner (that I mentioned) and see if it is reading a voltage. If so, it is either picking up a knock or thinks it is and you'll be chasing your tail around.
I'll take a look for them and see what condition they are in. I assume I could only test them for voltage if the engine is running? As this is a OBD1 system, I don't have the tooling for live data yet.
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