TxGearhead
Texas
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Joined: 04/17/2016
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I have maybe a max of 3/4" clearance between my dually fenders and my front jacks. I have dually swingouts. I see where eTrailer has extensions to mount on the swingouts. Item # HJ54FR. It would position the jacks 5" farther out. I haven't done any measuring yet, but it will be real close having enough wire from the jack motor to the plug. Anyone using these extension? Any thoughts overall?
2018 Ram 3500 CC LB DRW 4X4 Cummins Aisin Laramie Pearl White
2018 Landmark Oshkosh
2008 Bigfoot 25C9.4
2014 NauticStar 21 ShallowBay 150HP Yamaha
2016 GoDevil 18X44 35HP Surface Drive
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HMS Beagle
Napa, California
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Joined: 08/22/2003
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3/4" is plenty ![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile") . That is about what I have. On my previous truck and camper (F350Dually and 1996 BigFoot 25C9.4), the Happijack swingouts were insufficient for any clearance. I made extensions, by bolting a piece of 2 x 2 steel tube between the jack mount and the swingout bracket. My concern was that the further out the jacks are, the more torque is put on the jack mounts, trying to twist them off. They are not well designed to resist this kind of load. The stock swingout puts them out about 6" or so, adding 5" will nearly double that offset torque.
On my extensions, I welded 1" tube across the camper from one extension to the other, so that the offset torque was resolved between the two extensions and not transmitted to the camper jack mounts. It worked without problems for 15 years when I sold the camper to someone with singles, and he took it off.
Bigfoot 10.4E, 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 2WD, Autoflex Ultra Air Ride rear suspension, Hellwig Bigwig sway bars front and rear
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deserteagle56
Nevada
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Joined: 10/15/2013
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The swingout extensions on my Bigfoot were not enough to clear the fenders on my dually so I made extensions out of 4" channel iron. That was 8 years ago and they've worked out perfectly.
1996 Bigfoot 2500 9.5 on a 2004 Dodge/Cummins dually
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KD4UPL
Swoope, VA
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Joined: 03/16/2008
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I had about 3/4" clearance each side on mine with brackets. It was enough for me for 7 years. I wouldn't want to put any more stress on those mounts. The attachment is weak anyway.
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TxGearhead
Texas
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The strain with extensions was the first thing I thought of. My other issue is that my tires barely, just barely, clear whatever I have the jacks sitting on, usually a 2" concrete block.
If I could get just another 1" clearance, I would breathe easier.
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JRscooby
Indepmo
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Joined: 06/10/2019
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Don't have a dog in this, never loaded a camper in a pickup. (Is it similar to loading salt spreader in dump truck?)
My question is how much tolerance do you have between camper and inside of bed? Could using the extra space fender/jack put extra strain on mounts when bed hits camper?
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mkirsch
Rochester, NY
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Joined: 04/09/2004
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Don't forget the clearance INSIDE the bed. 6" of clearance on the outside does you no good if you've only got 1/2" at the wheel wells.
My rear tires just squeak between the blocking that's under the jacks. It made me nervous at first but then I realized nothing was going to happen. When I hear the squeak, I know I'm on target.
Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.
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TxGearhead
Texas
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mkirsch wrote:Don't forget the clearance INSIDE the bed. 6" of clearance on the outside does you no good if you've only got 1/2" at the wheel wells.
My rear tires just squeak between the blocking that's under the jacks. It made me nervous at first but then I realized nothing was going to happen. When I hear the squeak, I know I'm on target.
I'm concerned about cutting a tire on the sharp edge of the concrete block. I should rethink what I'm using to block under the jack foot.
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TxGearhead
Texas
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JRscooby wrote:Don't have a dog in this, never loaded a camper in a pickup. (Is it similar to loading salt spreader in dump truck?)
My question is how much tolerance do you have between camper and inside of bed? Could using the extra space fender/jack put extra strain on mounts when bed hits camper?
I live on the Texas Gulf Coast. I know nothing about salt spreaders in dump trucks.
I have a couple inches total clearance between the bed fender wells and the camper.
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JRscooby
Indepmo
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TxGearhead wrote:
I'm concerned about cutting a tire on the sharp edge of the concrete block. I should rethink what I'm using to block under the jack foot.
For years I worked truck/trailer combination where could not see the eye for several feet when backing to hook up. Go home at night never knew if would need trailer or not next day. I set a 8 ft long 2X4 in gravel drive so could just see edge. Every time I parked I backed left drive tires along that line, stop with rear tire almost to end. Don't need trailer today? Unhook before move truck. End of day, back on same line until feel pintle touch eye. If need trailer, in position to hook without moving.
Now for you, loading camper. Start with timber (6X6,8X8) 8 ft long, cut a foot off it. Use short end under right front jack, set left jack near end of long piece. Next time load, back in with left rear tire alongside that timber, will be lined up to put camper between fenders.
TxGearhead wrote:JRscooby wrote:Don't have a dog in this, never loaded a camper in a pickup. (Is it similar to loading salt spreader in dump truck?)
My question is how much tolerance do you have between camper and inside of bed? Could using the extra space fender/jack put extra strain on mounts when bed hits camper?
I live on the Texas Gulf Coast. I know nothing about salt spreaders in dump trucks.
I have a couple inches total clearance between the bed fender wells and the camper.
Okay. You set up so you have 6 inches between legs. If you use any more than that 2 inches you have on the inside, the fender hits camper, what have you gained? OTOH, if you set the legs where you have the same 2 inches, you can watch bed go between legs, know will miss inside the bed.
Maybe it is a defect in my eyes, but I can't see what's happening inside the bed, but that post/bedside gap is right there in the mirror.
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